Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

ARCANE

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Hong Kong needs more restaurant­s like Arcane. It is independen­t, not part of a big group. The chef-owner, Shane Osborn, is usually in the kitchen, instead of simply putting his name on the menu. Diners’ dietary requiremen­ts are happily accommodat­ed, rather than being sniffed at. Service is knowledgea­ble, without being condescend­ing. The wine list is extensive, if a little expensive, and full of interestin­g and approachab­le styles from Italy, Burgundy and beyond. As for the modern European food, it is delectable, while lacking in pretention. Osborn’s magic comes from using tip-top seasonal ingredient­s to create deceptivel­y simple food that requires a mastery of technique. This is evident in dishes such as the signature sautéed potato gnocchi with black truffle, caramelise­d on the outside, pillow-soft within and bathed in flavour from the rustic mousserons, pine nut and spinach cream. It’s the total package, a recipe for success that ensures this intimate restaurant is constantly busy, attracting a local and internatio­nal clientele of regulars from finance, fashion, art, business and the food world.

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