ARCANE

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - The New Gastronomy -

Hong Kong needs more restau­rants like Arcane. It is in­de­pen­dent, not part of a big group. The chef-owner, Shane Os­born, is usu­ally in the kitchen, in­stead of sim­ply putting his name on the menu. Din­ers’ di­etary re­quire­ments are hap­pily ac­com­mo­dated, rather than be­ing sniffed at. Ser­vice is knowl­edge­able, with­out be­ing con­de­scend­ing. The wine list is ex­ten­sive, if a lit­tle ex­pen­sive, and full of in­ter­est­ing and ap­proach­able styles from Italy, Bur­gundy and be­yond. As for the mod­ern Euro­pean food, it is de­lec­ta­ble, while lack­ing in pre­ten­tion. Os­born’s magic comes from us­ing tip-top sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents to cre­ate de­cep­tively sim­ple food that re­quires a mas­tery of tech­nique. This is ev­i­dent in dishes such as the sig­na­ture sautéed potato gnoc­chi with black truf­fle, caramelised on the out­side, pil­low-soft within and bathed in flavour from the rus­tic mousserons, pine nut and spinach cream. It’s the to­tal pack­age, a recipe for suc­cess that en­sures this in­ti­mate restau­rant is con­stantly busy, at­tract­ing a local and in­ter­na­tional clien­tele of reg­u­lars from fi­nance, fash­ion, art, business and the food world.

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