CE­LES­TIAL COURT

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Cantonese -

This Kowloon in­sti­tu­tion is de­cid­edly old school, from the cor­ri­dor of generic Chi­nese an­tiques to the chairs and the car­pet which has seen bet­ter days, but lo­cals flock here for the food. Clas­si­cal Can­tonese cui­sine is all about sub­trac­tion, and the ethe­real dishes served here are on the sub­tle side, sea­soned with re­straint. The se­lec­tion of dou­ble-boiled soups is sump­tu­ous, from fish maw with con­poy and black mush­rooms to sea whelk with porcini mush­room and pi­geon. Their sig­na­ture roasted suck­ling pig stuffed with black truf­fle and Chi­nese pearl bar­ley is out of this world, packs a glo­ri­ous crunch, and re­quires pre-or­der­ing two days in ad­vance and well worth the wait. There are a few dim sum items hereti­cally avail­able dur­ing din­ner for tourists, but, as ex­pected, dim sum is de­cid­edly much more de­li­cious dur­ing lunchtime. The steamed Ce­les­tial Court shrimp dumpling fea­tures giant bouncy prawns wrapped in a chewy, snow-white skin, sea­soned with re­straint. Ser­vice is cour­te­ous, but might be a bit slow on busy days—and it’s usu­ally busy most days of the week—so a firm hand and voice is some­times needed to get the staff’s at­ten­tion.

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