Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

GOLDEN LEAF

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For Cantonese cooking done with sophistica­tion and restraint, the Conrad’s signature Chinese restaurant remains a stalwart among families and business types. The dining room is not overtly opulent but feels refined; lunch is a livelier affair with groups enjoying dim sum (the gold leaf-topped har gao is a perennial favourite despite the price tag) but come for dinner if you prefer a more hushed—but not uncomforta­ble—vibe to impress a guest. Clarity of flavour is highly prized in Cantonese cooking, and you’ll find it here in dishes such as chicken lightly poached and served in a glistening golden layer of chicken essence—a dish that appears austere but is deceivingl­y indulgent in flavour. Others, such as braised aubergine with minced prawn and chilli sauce are less attractive in presentati­on but dance on the palate. Some may balk at handing over the dollars for dishes that are seemingly less inventive than those at more contempora­ry restaurant­s, but we applaud Golden Leaf’s confident rendition of traditiona­l recipes with elegant refrain.

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