GOLDEN LEAF

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Cantonese -

For Can­tonese cook­ing done with so­phis­ti­ca­tion and re­straint, the Con­rad’s sig­na­ture Chi­nese restau­rant re­mains a stal­wart among fam­i­lies and business types. The din­ing room is not overtly op­u­lent but feels re­fined; lunch is a live­lier af­fair with groups en­joy­ing dim sum (the gold leaf-topped har gao is a peren­nial favourite de­spite the price tag) but come for din­ner if you pre­fer a more hushed—but not un­com­fort­able—vibe to im­press a guest. Clar­ity of flavour is highly prized in Can­tonese cook­ing, and you’ll find it here in dishes such as chicken lightly poached and served in a glis­ten­ing golden layer of chicken essence—a dish that ap­pears aus­tere but is de­ceiv­ingly in­dul­gent in flavour. Oth­ers, such as braised au­bergine with minced prawn and chilli sauce are less at­trac­tive in pre­sen­ta­tion but dance on the palate. Some may balk at hand­ing over the dol­lars for dishes that are seem­ingly less in­ven­tive than those at more con­tem­po­rary restau­rants, but we ap­plaud Golden Leaf’s con­fi­dent ren­di­tion of tra­di­tional recipes with el­e­gant re­frain.

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