THE ROYAL GAR­DEN CHI­NESE RESTAU­RANT

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Cantonese -

Although lo­cated in the base­ment, the restau­rant feels like a South­ern Chi­nese wa­ter gar­den in gor­geous calm­ing greys, es­pe­cially if you take the ta­ble right by the cir­cu­lar moon win­dow. Seats are usu­ally com­fort­ably spaced but on a crowded evening, ex­tra ta­bles may be placed around the man-made pond or even across the “stream” at Dong Lai Shun, which serves north­ern Chi­nese with reg­u­lar de­tours into Huaiyang and Sichuan. Over on this side of the pond, dishes are paeans to Can­tonese min­i­mal­ism, with gen­tle sea­son­ings ac­cen­tu­at­ing the fresh catch. High­lights in­clude fra­grant steamed crab with Hua­diao wine and stir-fried garoupa rolls. We love their dou­ble-boiled al­mond pig lung soup, a labour in­ten­sive Guang­dong clas­sic that usu­ally re­quires pre-or­der—but their deep, savoury, col­la­gen-rich ren­di­tion is avail­able any time of the day. Ser­vice is swift and ea­ger but not too in­tru­sive. While the wine se­lec­tion is heavy on recog­nis­able Bordeaux, the short tea list is top notch and pairs bet­ter with the clean flavours of Can­tonese.

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