TIN LUNG HEEN

Tin Lung Heen provides a textbook lesson in Cantonese cuisine—freshness, lightness and sometimes, barely-there flavour, which come together beautifully in its repertoire of classic roasted and barbecued meats, soups, stir fries and steamed dishes. Simmered Chinese vegetables retain a satisfying crispness, char siu is lean yet tender and a simple off-menu wok-fried spotted garoupa fillet with soy let the quality ingredients shine. It’s what you would expect from such a rarefied establishment, perched more than 450 metres above sea level, atop the Ritz-Carlton hotel. This means sky-high views through double-height windows of western and northern Hong Kong. The flashy décor may not be to everyone’s taste, but it’s one to put on the list for date nights and celebrations. Service is well-oiled, with staff able to guide novices and the knowledgeable alike through the menu. The extensive wine list leans heavily towards renowned Italian and French estates, and red more than white. A selection of premium Chinese teas is available for non-drinkers.