LA BOMBANCE

Mention the word kaiseki and most people will imagine a procession of refined morsels artfully presented on beautiful lacquerware and ceramics in formal settings at exorbitant prices. La Bombance challenges that notion by delivering a smart-casual experience at more accessible prices, without sacrificing quality. It’s a difficult line to tread, but the Hong Kong offshoot of this well-regarded Tokyo restaurant succeeds with its French-influenced Japanese fare. A large central table, akin to a wide sushi counter, dominates the minimalist space, and you sit facing the splendid Hong Kong skyline (individual tables can also be requested). Only a single nine-course menu is available for dinner, while lunch can be good value. The seasonal nature of kaiseki means that the menu changes regularly, featuring plenty of seafood and vegetables. Seasonal sushi and sashimi might include excellent torched striped horse mackerel and gently simmered baby abalone. Wines are available, though sake is the tipple of choice. Service is attentive and the restaurant is good for dates or a small group celebration. Diners must provide credit card details to guarantee a reservation, so take note of the cancellation policy and discuss any dietary restrictions beforehand.