BOSTONIAN SEAFOOD AND GRILL

For years, the Bostonian was the go-to for well-to-do families and corporate types wanting American-style surf and turf in Tsim Sha Tsui. As competition increased and tastes changed, so has this cavernous institution, which has undergone a transformation. Gone are the cerise walls, bright lights and art deco touches, to be replaced by industrial fittings and contemporary art in a bid to attract a younger crowd. Think shipyard timber, bare brick, brass and copper detailing and exposed lightbulbs turned down low. The menu remains focused on steak and sustainable seafood, but with modern updates. Oysters come tempurastyle. Beetroot-cured salmon is dressed in pomegranate molasses. Thankfully for regulars, classics remain, including lobster thermidor, seafood platters and USDA Prime beef. The wine list has good depth and reach, featuring more than 250 labels, with ratings from top wine critics listed where relevant.