Top 5 Prints and Fabrics from Men’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection
Ordinary Working Class grabs Menswear’s fancy
Menswear shows just finished the touch down in the French capital and looking back at all the collections makes us quite dubious about what’s in store for Spring/Summer 2018. The notion of bending gender delineations has definitively come to the forefront in men’s fashion and designers have showcased surprisingly wearable collections through this season. The approach is more back-to-basics than ever; however, reinventing the same classics with an urban streetwear touch and not holding back on any femininity which can be called the theme of the season for our boys.
When it comes to prints, it seems like every designer has plenty of tricks in their bags – from continuing the slogan rage of last season and reinventing their own brand logos to watercolour flowers and hearty leitmotifs, there is a print for every pauper this season. Sunil Kokare,
Opera Clothing, elaborates on the season’s prints: “There is a huge variety in the patterning demands for Spring/ Summer 2018. We are working on everything from digital to yarn dyed prints making motifs like florals, geometrics or just abstract pigmented pieces. While the fabrics are called basics, the type of work buyers are getting done from India is very detail-specific as it seems like all the production of blanks has moved on to Bangladesh due to competitive costing.”
Taking up a very no holds barred approach, the designers are working on simplistic fabrics like cotton poplins or even woollen blends and are going crazy with silhouettes and prints to create truly ground-breaking versions of our favourite bestselling styles. Even so, perhaps the most laudable feature of menswear this season was the casting of extremely diverse and unconventional models that bestowed a sense of reality upon the clothing. The collections danced the line between corporate boys and corporate boys on vacation so beautifully that we can almost forget how confused the direction of trends was looking this season. Spearheaded by designers like Demna Gvasalia who drew inspirations from typical dad-type outfits for Balenciaga and went photographing common people on the streets for his Vetements catalogue – the ‘ugly fashion’ movement is in full swing.
While we get amply distracted by the ongoing haute couture shows in Paris and await the conclusion of men’s fashion season in New York, here are some of the hottest trends in prints and fabrics that we believe will go strong for men’s apparel in Spring/Summer 2018.
1. STRAPPING STRIPES
As the world tries to break walls and forge friendships beyond hypothetical barbed wires, the storyline of Boyne’s Holocaust novel, The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas, feels more relevant than ever. As if directly taking 8-year old Bruno from Nazi Germany as a muse, designers are presenting overall striped outfits, which take multiple directions and sometimes multiple thicknesses and line quality.
Creating multitudes of layering in linear goodness are brands like
Haider Ackermann with his slim fitted pant suit in monochrome artisanal stripes and Topman’s various shades of grey awning stripes on wrap jackets.
2. SURFING PARADISE
Summer is synonymous with spring break and vacations by the beach. So to provide you with the right sartorial garbs for holidaying in 2018, designers are presenting various takes on the atypical Hawaiian shirt. Perhaps the muse here is Charlie Sheen, as we
With retailers attributing menswear its own rhythmic attitude and specific trends, men’s collections are finally at the centre stage in fashion apparel, and designers seem to still be trying to understand which tone they would like to adopt for this blooming market.
have seen every collection as well as the street style set in fashion weeks embracing the gusto of this Aloha shirt in variations that go far and wide covering everything from pineapples to voodoo dolls.
Designers are taking the book of surfing and tearing off pages at their own fancy, where Paul Smith illustrated the marine life and
Louis Vuitton went for glittering botanical route.
As another effort to make fashion more realistic and closer to the lives of common people, designers are using mathematical tiles paying homage to geometry as the repetitive pattern du jour. Given that Maths isn’t exactly everyone’s strong suit in school, and no one really likes proving those theorems, isometric tessellations and inventive hexagons, triangles and circles are surprisingly taking the men’s season by a storm.
From bold blocks of hexagons at Pigalle and mixing 2D with 3D views at Joseph, to the overcast isometric cuboids and patterns at Dries Van Noten – mathematics is fashion’s new favourite subject.
4. EVERYBODY’S POLLOCK
Maybe it is the easiest place to draw inspiration for fashion but art, being the perfect representative of whatever is happening in the world, is always the go to bank of prints for every fashion brand. However, this season’s art decoration mostly parlays in the district of abstract expression with Jackson Pollock seemingly being the helping hand to every design dilemma and contemporaneous digital art styles like photocopy monochromes, scrawled collaging as well as handwritten doodles.
From 3.1 Phillip Lim’s carpenter splatters of paint to Yohji Yamamoto’s ad hoc, nonchalant colour dispersion on crisp formal businesswear, Pollock is probably looking down at men’s season with a big smile on his face.
5. LOGO DADS
Throwbacks have become a fashion mainstay of late and while we did see a bunch of referencing to post-’90s trends, the strongest symbol returning from the decade is the big ol’ sportswear like supersized centrally placed logos. The name dropping ‘Logomania’ trend was all the rage and fashion, as it is always doomed to repeat itself and has made the same trend cool again.
Retro and colourful is the key to reworking logos, with Martine Rose’s creaming up of MTV’s old logo, MSGM’s typographic play-up as well as brands like Versace, Balenciaga and Dior Homme – all going for hyper visible logos.
6. MILD DENIM
Since the season’s colours are bending all the way down to neutrals and candy land pastels, it seems highly appropriate that designers are using the powdery blue of mildly washed denim as the fabric of choice this summer. From oversized jackets and straight fit jeans to working class jumpsuits, head to toes denim was seen just about everywhere and we hardly saw any overtly distressed versions of it either.
The collections danced the line between corporate boys and corporate boys on vacation so beautifully that we can almost forget how confused the direction of trends was looking this season. Spearheaded by designers like Demna Gvasalia who drew inspirations from typical dad-type outfits for Balenciaga and went photographing common people on the streets for his Vetements catalogue – the ‘ugly fashion’ movement is in full swing.
Light and bright was the denim mantra of the week where designers like Facetasm, Julien David and Tod’s were all in firm agreement.
7. TECHNO NYLON
Nylon is not just for streetwear and athleisure segments anymore. A slew of designers and fashion labels are becoming increasingly receptive to synthetic fabrics, whether it is the sporty approach with oversized jumpsuits and shiny track suit combinations or the more practical vibe with oversized parkas and bomber jackets – techno nylon is looking great this season. With the ‘office-core’ trend as its main propagator – fun coloured nylons at Cottweiler as well as the off-kilter deployment of nylon in traditional tailored basics and neutrally business casuals are also going big at brands like Prada and Versace.
8. WOOL BLENDS
As the manufacturing processes get more creative than ever, the quintessential cold-weather textile is entering the summer markets with panache. Being the marvellous temperature regulator that it is, ateliers and designers are using wool to blend with other popular spring fabrics like cotton, polyester and extracting all the good qualities of this wrinkle resistant textile.
With firms like The Woolmark Company pioneering the movement of cool wools in summer with the release of its Spring/Summer ready to order catalogues, brands like Band of Outsiders, Max Mara and Zegna, among others are now able to inculcate this fabric in their summer offerings.
9. TECHNICAL FABRICS
A direct off-shoot from the athletic apparel categories – technically advanced fabrics that go beyond the basic function of covering your body, are the future of men’s fashion. With major luxury fashion houses opening up their ancient closets and throwing in some high-performance fabrics that resemble nothing of their age-old tweed and checks, fashion is clearly moving out of its shell of traditional fabrics. As the consumer gets more digital and hyper – aware than ever, how can the clothes that he wears be basic? To fill in that space and seize this business opportunity, heritage brands like Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Valentino are dressing up their boys’ sporty fabrics.
10. SUMMER COTS
Nothing is a better certificate of how democratized fashion is becoming than the humbleness of fabrics that forms the canvas of any collection. Comfort is the champion of menswear and designers are innovating the basic textile by blending it with synthetic nylons to create crisp looks for the season. Baig Muzaffar, Subbarow Apparels, adds, “Cotton is, for sure, the main fabric in our summer collection. With various weights and weaves like poplin, twill – we do think that the textile demand is more or less very practical for summer. We are also making a lot of yarn-dyed stripes and checks to make the core fabric shine out this season.”
An unswerving off-shoot from sportswear and moreover, the athleisure segment – technically advanced fabrics, performance textiles like nylon and versatile denim in its raw beauty are ruling even the more reserved heritage fashion runways. Going a step further, designers are blending various simpler materials like cottons and cool wools to foster new combination textiles that give wearers the best of all worlds.