FFT Trends

Apparel Online - - Content -

Dis­rup­tive flux at haute cou­ture… Chal­leng­ing con­ven­tion

The fash­ion sys­tem is cur­rently un­der­go­ing a ma­jor evo­lu­tion – a revo­lu­tion – even in terms of where the iden­tity of its var­i­ous en­ti­ties lies.

Which sea­son are we see­ing? What is be­ing pre­sented? Are we at cou­ture, pre-fall or re­sort? Do these gar­ments fall un­der the cat­e­gory of ready-to-wear or made-to-mea­sure?

The world is in con­stant dis­cus­sion re­gard­ing dis­rup­tion as a way for­ward across var­i­ous fields, and the fash­ion in­dus­try does not stay im­mune to it… A state of un­easi­ness and up­heaval was ev­i­dent owing to the dis­joint hap­pen­ing at the Haute Cou­ture Week, this sea­son, which raised a ques­tion re­gard­ing the fea­si­bil­ity of cou­ture in com­ing times and what it stands for to­day. Is it still about ex­trav­a­gance and glamour, or are we headed to­wards a more ap­par­ent shift for ready-to-wear col­lec­tions in cou­ture owing to the in­crease in the spend­ing power of emerg­ing mar­kets?

The lat­ter is brought into per­spec­tive with the de­ci­sion to welcome and in­clude Amer­i­can tal­ent with re­spect to ace design houses of Ro­darte and Proenza Schouler, who were in­vited to show­case their col­lec­tions at the pres­ti­gious Cou­ture Week held ex­clu­sively in Paris, along with Peter Dundas. A move that cer­tainly hints on a wider ac­cep­tance tar­geted to­wards the in­dus­try’s ex­pan­sion but at the same time some­what also takes away the al­lure and re­gal­ity as­so­ci­ated with haute cou­ture.

The fact that many of the pre­sen­ta­tions show­cased ready-to-wear, day­wear and ex­per­i­men­tal pieces – owing to avant-garde de­sign­ers such as Mai­son Margiela, Iris van Her­pen and Vik­tor and Rolf – sig­nal a shift to an era that sees a rise in wear­able streetwear in­spired fash­ion.

Not that any of these de­sign­ers are lack­ing, but just that their fields are very dif­fer­ent as op­posed to haute cou­ture in the tra­di­tional sense of the word.

And thus the re­sult­ing re­ac­tion from the as­sem­blage was one filled with cu­rios­ity, un­cer­tainty, baf­fle­ment and awe – as all cou­ture show­cases are de­serv­ing of awe.

This sea­son saw a battle of wits be­tween tra­di­tion­al­ists and modernists com­ing full throt­tle to give birth to a yet un­named branch of fash­ion that sits some­where be­tween the con­fines of cou­ture and ready-to-wear – a uni­verse which we shall have the honour of nav­i­gat­ing our way through in the ap­proach­ing sea­sons.

FFT puts to­gether 5 of the most thought-pro­vok­ing pre­sen­ta­tions by de­sign­ers who have con­trib­uted to­wards chan­nelling the (con­flict­ingly) ap­par­ent ‘shift’ in the in­dus­try, owing to their sig­na­ture style, crafts­man­ship, work­man­ship and how they amal­ga­mate the three to trans­late their genius into the world of haute cou­ture.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from India

© PressReader. All rights reserved.