MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL
FALL 2017 COUTURE
The design headquarters of the house, which used to be a religious academy in the 19th century and a technical school before Margiela made it his own, served as the perfect milieu for Galliano’s collection that was wholly inspired from, ‘the idea of new glamour’.
In a preview before the main presentation, the designer explained how he wanted to reconnoiter the modern speed of glamour and talked of his woman saying, “She puts on a red lip, she grabs a humble coat in haste and is out.”
The collection picked up the chaste elements of conventional glamour such as sharp red nails, high heels, a defiant décolleté, feathers and sequins – and really turned these up over their heads. Deconstructing basics and doing what both Margiela and Galliano have in common, the latter presented reinvented versions of ‘grab and go’ pieces, exploiting the trench coat and using each of its details like the belted waistline, cardboard beige colour and of course its manly vibe giving them his own twists.
Keeping up with his distortive ways, he ribbed the trench’s gabardine to mirror corrugated cardboard; used translucent organza decorated with large paillettes to make frilly coat dresses; slashed out sleeves, cut out bustiers on moulded linocut dresses and used embroidery to create optical illusions around the bosoms. Cunningly peacocking between nonchalant mishmash and fastidious composition – he put crystal threads on tulle bodices, superimposed layers of fabrics together and not to forget the trifling exaggerations on tattered silhouettes to weave it all together.
Intermingling these with Scandinavian intarsia sweaters in heavy cable knits and metallic cowboy boots all through the collections, he kept up the cohesive ad hoc appeal of the Fall/Winter 2017 couture collection.