IRIS VAN HERPEN
FALL 2017 COUTURE
As the lines between fact and fantasy continue to blur out owing to the social and political happenings around the world, reality itself becomes surreal.
Enter master of surrealism, Iris van Herpen, who has inadvertently earned a name for herself in the universe that exists between the two cornerstones of tradition and technology.
Known for her avant-garde techniques and sense of style, the Amsterdam based designer shifted her schedule to Paris on an invitation of the Fédération Française de la Couture in Spring 2011.
The designer’s Fall 2017 Couture collection also marked her namesake brand’s 10th anniversary, for which she presented 18 futuristic looks that blurred the boundaries between allure associated with couture and the complexity of mind associated with scientific technology.
As per presentation notes, the collection explores ‘the nature and anatomy of air and the power of water’, and the fluidity characterized by both.
Complex lazer-cutting techniques went hand-in-hand with heat bonding processes that translated themselves onto garments that were 3D moulded and fused into form.
Harpen worked magically with barely-there materials such as tulle and organza to create masterpieces that mimicked the lightness of air and the surface of water. Wave-like patterns were created on floor-grazing gowns in organza by printing linear patterns over the translucent fabric which was then pleated to mirror the rippled effect associated with water.
A short dress flaunted columns of silver lace which were laser cut and pleated in moiré patterned organza to create undulating ruffles, while in another piece, thin strips of silver were hand stitched into a turtleneck mini dress giving the illusion of being formed by liquid mercury.
The most experimental piece came in the form of a dress which was crafted out of feather-weight metal wires that were cut into geodesic 3D flower patterns strewn together to create an installation-worthy costume.
Often considered as parallel universes, fashion and technology are in fact inseparably connected, now more than ever before, and Iris van Herpen aims to explore the same concept in terms of reconciling the world of handmade with technology in the creation of haute couture.