It’s a Monochromatic Texture Party! Post analysis of Pre-Fall 2017 collections
Post analysis of Pre-Fall 2017 collections
Trends may come and trends may go, but the calendar of fashion has stayed...
Trends may come and trends may go, but the calendar of fashion has stayed more or less constant since the official inception of the big Spring/ Summer and Fall/Winter fashion weeks. However, as the retail zeitgeist lies in a flux and fast fashion eats away a large chunk of fashion’s loyal consumer base, the old system is challenged to its core. The demand for newness is more immediate than ever and mid-season collections are becoming all the rage. Designers are using capsule assortments and fashion collaborations to fill retail gaps where the lead season’s collection become too old and the new seasons are yet to be released for sale. Pre-fall as well as Resort/ Cruise collections are blocks of myriad opportunity for fashion labels from a sales point of view and for editors, this serves as a great opportunity to get a peek into high-fashion’s head.
Since, the presentations for pre-fall are mostly through smaller shows that focus less on showbiz and more on the clothing, this is also a perfect location for trend spotting. Hence, surveying the pre-fall collections, we can successfully proclaim the reign of silhouettes that signal for a simpler time which are copiously glamorized by artistic techniques and interesting colour play. Closer home, Ajay Kak of Jaypee Knit Fab elaborates that while silhouettes are still very classical, the experimentation is all on the play of textures. They are working on innovative surface treatments for winter collections injected fleece and neps, a burst of different washes. He also adds that embroidery is increasingly becoming a bigger trend with each season. So while it has always been a key element, they are trying to improvise on the technique for the coming seasons.
Taking into account the acumen from production houses in India and updating it with the big hits from international presentations, here are some of the key trends from Pre-Fall 2017 collections:
1 CRISP OPULENCE
Winter is no longer a drab and dull season for the west. The cold months are a perfect period to wear heavy
fabrics and embellished pieces that would otherwise be very overbearing for hotter months. Golden sumptuous additions like leather cut-out appliqué and rosy embroidery at Alberta Ferretti or the lavish brocade and tapestry inspired fabrics at Andrew Gn were all nodding towards a very opulent winter.
Erdem’s creative vision took to making daytime sequin dresses and jackets a norm, while the Chanel’s Métiers d’Art focused on craftsmanship with embroidery in European motifs on modern silhouettes.
2 LONG KNITS
Heavy knits were a major statement for men’s collection in Fall/Winter 2017 and their expedition into women’s garbs comes as an obvious choice since comfort has become a key trend for the season. Relaxation and recluse is a big theme and cozy knitwear is being used in more direct ways with full outfits being made out of warm knitted textiles. The trend was seen in Missoni’s jumpers with long sweater coats in multi-colour lines and Antonio Marras’ oversized dresses in the same pattern. Both Mother of Pearl and Pringle of Scotland went big on knit with full trouser and eclectic sweater tops in the fabric.
Separates or co-ordinated outfits have been a huge trend for a couple of seasons so it is easy to ascertain that single colour pieces come as a direct successor of the same style for next season. The need for modern uniforms and making the act of getting dressed an easy breezy process seems to be on every designer’s check list.
Nina Ricci went for silvery blue creating 3 piece outfits complete with trouser, shirt and overcoat in the same colour. Bottega Veneta and Sally Lapointe took a sportier direction adding joggers and bomber jackets into the mix, whereas Dion Lee shone bright, combining faux fur and silk in one colour.
4 FORTIES HEM
Borrowing from the past is the key to fashion’s innovation and when the western world feels as close to war as it perhaps did in the 1940s, a direct trend from the era that is coming to fore in 2017 are dropped hemlines. RK Gupta of Fashion Tech says that in general, even though all sizes and lengths are always being worked upon because you cannot ignore the classics, but definitely they can notice a rise in demand for more conservative lengths across the board. Mid-length dresses were a commonplace throughout a flurry of designer collections in a variety of prints like polka, striping and florals such as Monse, Paco Rabbane and even the youthful Sacai.
Pre-Fall 2017 collections, we can successfully proclaim the reign of classic silhouettes signalling for a simpler time. Copious glamour bundled with fine craftsmanship on luxurious fabrics are singing to fashion’s colourful heart this season.
5 VALENTINO RED
The house of Valentino has a lot of changes under way so it is fair to estimate this luxurious hue will be a major favourite for the coming seasons as the brand gains a larger space in popular culture. The colour channels both the sentiments of passionate love and fierce rage, which seems to fit perfectly with the sub-currents of our time.
Apart from Valentino’s very own sequin laden assortment, red was a crucial colour in the offering from fashion houses like Givenchy, Tome’s minimal shift dresses and Lanvin’s dreamy sheer gowns.
6 EXTRA LONG PANTS
As both skirts and dresses start going towards the missionary below the knee direction, the other big bottomwear segments of trousers goes one step further with extreme floor sweeping lengths.
Mopping the ground with their extra-long pants: Paco Rabanne has added titch buttons to its bottom side seams; Off-White takes the more structured route in clean cut pants that imbue an architectural look to his garment; whereas Polo Ralph Lauren and Mugler keep business wear forward by pairing arbitrary lengths with straight blazers and shirting.
7 PYJAMA TRACKS
Athleisure has now given birth to ath-luxury. So while athletic apparel is only going to become more relevant than ever, its new offspring bends toward casual comfort clothing with a hint of fitness. Track suits may not be as trendy for prefall collections as they were in resort assortments but the symbolic single side striped track pant could be seen in abundance in these collections.
3.1 Phillip Lim chose to pair the track pant with a dressy top;
Diesel Black Gold as well as Versus Versace stuck to their sportswear roots in steamy grey and Gucci, the perpetrator of maximalist ideals, took to florals to polish this trend.
8 FLORID NIGHTS
Flora and fauna prints are a mainstay for both summer and winter, the only difference being the base they are placed on as well as the size of the motif itself. Designers like Altuzarra, Emilio Pucci and Temperley London are all echoing the sentiments for blue to green colour floral black backgrounds in their pre-fall collections.
Aman Sadh of Aman Fashion chimes in by adding that prints and embroidery are distinctly in focus for fall collection. As he aptly states, “Florals in small sizes on all backgrounds ranging from deep midnight blues to light romantic mauve are what we are working on for the most part.”
Mother of Pearl
3.1 Phillip Lim