It’s a Monochro­matic Tex­ture Party! Post anal­y­sis of Pre-Fall 2017 col­lec­tions

Post anal­y­sis of Pre-Fall 2017 col­lec­tions

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Trends may come and trends may go, but the cal­en­dar of fash­ion has stayed...

Trends may come and trends may go, but the cal­en­dar of fash­ion has stayed more or less con­stant since the of­fi­cial in­cep­tion of the big Spring/ Sum­mer and Fall/Win­ter fash­ion weeks. How­ever, as the re­tail zeit­geist lies in a flux and fast fash­ion eats away a large chunk of fash­ion’s loyal con­sumer base, the old sys­tem is chal­lenged to its core. The de­mand for new­ness is more im­me­di­ate than ever and mid-sea­son col­lec­tions are be­com­ing all the rage. De­sign­ers are us­ing cap­sule as­sort­ments and fash­ion col­lab­o­ra­tions to fill re­tail gaps where the lead sea­son’s col­lec­tion be­come too old and the new sea­sons are yet to be re­leased for sale. Pre-fall as well as Re­sort/ Cruise col­lec­tions are blocks of myr­iad op­por­tu­nity for fash­ion la­bels from a sales point of view and for ed­i­tors, this serves as a great op­por­tu­nity to get a peek into high-fash­ion’s head.

Since, the pre­sen­ta­tions for pre-fall are mostly through smaller shows that fo­cus less on show­biz and more on the cloth­ing, this is also a per­fect location for trend spot­ting. Hence, sur­vey­ing the pre-fall col­lec­tions, we can suc­cess­fully pro­claim the reign of sil­hou­ettes that sig­nal for a sim­pler time which are co­pi­ously glam­or­ized by artis­tic tech­niques and in­ter­est­ing colour play. Closer home, Ajay Kak of Jaypee Knit Fab elab­o­rates that while sil­hou­ettes are still very clas­si­cal, the ex­per­i­men­ta­tion is all on the play of tex­tures. They are work­ing on in­no­va­tive sur­face treat­ments for win­ter col­lec­tions in­jected fleece and neps, a burst of dif­fer­ent washes. He also adds that em­broi­dery is in­creas­ingly be­com­ing a big­ger trend with each sea­son. So while it has al­ways been a key el­e­ment, they are try­ing to im­pro­vise on the tech­nique for the com­ing sea­sons.

Tak­ing into ac­count the acu­men from pro­duc­tion houses in In­dia and up­dat­ing it with the big hits from in­ter­na­tional pre­sen­ta­tions, here are some of the key trends from Pre-Fall 2017 col­lec­tions:


Win­ter is no longer a drab and dull sea­son for the west. The cold months are a per­fect pe­riod to wear heavy

fab­rics and em­bel­lished pieces that would oth­er­wise be very over­bear­ing for hot­ter months. Golden sump­tu­ous ad­di­tions like leather cut-out ap­pliqué and rosy em­broi­dery at Al­berta Fer­retti or the lav­ish bro­cade and ta­pes­try in­spired fab­rics at Andrew Gn were all nod­ding to­wards a very op­u­lent win­ter.

Er­dem’s cre­ative vision took to mak­ing day­time se­quin dresses and jack­ets a norm, while the Chanel’s Métiers d’Art fo­cused on crafts­man­ship with em­broi­dery in Euro­pean mo­tifs on mod­ern sil­hou­ettes.


Heavy knits were a ma­jor state­ment for men’s col­lec­tion in Fall/Win­ter 2017 and their ex­pe­di­tion into women’s garbs comes as an ob­vi­ous choice since com­fort has be­come a key trend for the sea­son. Re­lax­ation and recluse is a big theme and cozy knitwear is be­ing used in more di­rect ways with full out­fits be­ing made out of warm knit­ted textiles. The trend was seen in Mis­soni’s jumpers with long sweater coats in multi-colour lines and An­to­nio Mar­ras’ over­sized dresses in the same pat­tern. Both Mother of Pearl and Pringle of Scot­land went big on knit with full trouser and eclec­tic sweater tops in the fab­ric.


Sep­a­rates or co-or­di­nated out­fits have been a huge trend for a cou­ple of sea­sons so it is easy to as­cer­tain that sin­gle colour pieces come as a di­rect successor of the same style for next sea­son. The need for mod­ern uni­forms and mak­ing the act of get­ting dressed an easy breezy process seems to be on ev­ery de­signer’s check list.

Nina Ricci went for sil­very blue cre­at­ing 3 piece out­fits com­plete with trouser, shirt and over­coat in the same colour. Bot­tega Veneta and Sally La­pointe took a sportier di­rec­tion adding jog­gers and bomber jack­ets into the mix, whereas Dion Lee shone bright, com­bin­ing faux fur and silk in one colour.


Bor­row­ing from the past is the key to fash­ion’s in­no­va­tion and when the west­ern world feels as close to war as it per­haps did in the 1940s, a di­rect trend from the era that is com­ing to fore in 2017 are dropped hem­lines. RK Gupta of Fash­ion Tech says that in gen­eral, even though all sizes and lengths are al­ways be­ing worked upon be­cause you can­not ig­nore the clas­sics, but def­i­nitely they can no­tice a rise in de­mand for more con­ser­va­tive lengths across the board. Mid-length dresses were a com­mon­place through­out a flurry of de­signer col­lec­tions in a va­ri­ety of prints like polka, strip­ing and flo­rals such as Monse, Paco Rab­bane and even the youth­ful Sa­cai.


Pre-Fall 2017 col­lec­tions, we can suc­cess­fully pro­claim the reign of classic sil­hou­ettes sig­nalling for a sim­pler time. Co­pi­ous glam­our bun­dled with fine crafts­man­ship on lux­u­ri­ous fab­rics are singing to fash­ion’s colour­ful heart this sea­son.


The house of Valentino has a lot of changes un­der way so it is fair to es­ti­mate this lux­u­ri­ous hue will be a ma­jor favourite for the com­ing sea­sons as the brand gains a larger space in pop­u­lar cul­ture. The colour chan­nels both the sen­ti­ments of pas­sion­ate love and fierce rage, which seems to fit per­fectly with the sub-cur­rents of our time.

Apart from Valentino’s very own se­quin laden as­sort­ment, red was a cru­cial colour in the of­fer­ing from fash­ion houses like Givenchy, Tome’s min­i­mal shift dresses and Lan­vin’s dreamy sheer gowns.


As both skirts and dresses start go­ing to­wards the mis­sion­ary be­low the knee di­rec­tion, the other big bot­tomwear seg­ments of trousers goes one step fur­ther with ex­treme floor sweep­ing lengths.

Mop­ping the ground with their ex­tra-long pants: Paco Ra­banne has added titch but­tons to its bot­tom side seams; Off-White takes the more struc­tured route in clean cut pants that im­bue an ar­chi­tec­tural look to his gar­ment; whereas Polo Ralph Lau­ren and Mu­gler keep busi­ness wear for­ward by pair­ing ar­bi­trary lengths with straight blaz­ers and shirt­ing.


Ath­leisure has now given birth to ath-lux­ury. So while ath­letic ap­parel is only go­ing to be­come more rel­e­vant than ever, its new off­spring bends to­ward ca­sual com­fort cloth­ing with a hint of fit­ness. Track suits may not be as trendy for pre­fall col­lec­tions as they were in re­sort as­sort­ments but the sym­bolic sin­gle side striped track pant could be seen in abun­dance in these col­lec­tions.

3.1 Phillip Lim chose to pair the track pant with a dressy top;

Diesel Black Gold as well as Ver­sus Ver­sace stuck to their sportswear roots in steamy grey and Gucci, the per­pe­tra­tor of max­i­mal­ist ideals, took to flo­rals to pol­ish this trend.


Flora and fauna prints are a main­stay for both sum­mer and win­ter, the only dif­fer­ence be­ing the base they are placed on as well as the size of the mo­tif it­self. De­sign­ers like Al­tuzarra, Emilio Pucci and Temperley Lon­don are all echo­ing the sen­ti­ments for blue to green colour flo­ral black back­grounds in their pre-fall col­lec­tions.

Aman Sadh of Aman Fash­ion chimes in by adding that prints and em­broi­dery are dis­tinctly in fo­cus for fall col­lec­tion. As he aptly states, “Flo­rals in small sizes on all back­grounds rang­ing from deep mid­night blues to light ro­man­tic mauve are what we are work­ing on for the most part.”


Tory Burch


Mother of Pearl


Bot­tega Veneta




3.1 Phillip Lim


Emilio Pucci




Nina Ricci

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