Review Den­im­sand­jeans In­dia: A win-win show for all stake­hold­ers in the denim value chain

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The first ever Den­im­sand­jeans In­dia show or­ga­nized in Bangalore was a win-win...

“The buy­ers’ turnout at the exhibition as well as dur­ing the sem­i­nars was phe­nom­e­nal. We are very happy to see the re­sponses. ” San­deep Agar­wal - Founder and CEO of Den­im­sand­ and the Or­ga­nizer of the event

The first ever Den­im­sand­jeans In­dia show or­ga­nized in Bangalore was a win-win af­fair for all its 30 ex­hibitors (in­clud­ing top In­dian denim mills and few over­seas com­pa­nies) and nearly 1500 in­dus­try visi­tors. The show was very well re­ceived and suc­cess­ful on all pa­ram­e­ters – or­ga­ni­za­tion, qual­ity vis­i­ta­tion, full-house sem­i­nars and happy par­tic­i­pants. Dur­ing the two-day long event, Team Ap­parel On­line in­ter­acted with lot of visi­tors in­clud­ing sourc­ing teams, de­sign­ers, fab­ric man­agers of pop­u­lar in­ter­na­tional and In­dian brands, top level man­age­ment of ex­port houses and denim process houses.

The stu­pen­dous re­sponse to the event strongly re­it­er­ated the fact that denim is go­ing to wit­ness sig­nif­i­cant growth in the In­dian do­mes­tic as well as ex­port mar­ket. Teams from H&M, PVH, GAP, Zara, Tar­get, Benet­ton, Tesco, Pepe Jeans, Killer Jeans, Spykar, V-Mart, Im­pe­rial Ready­made Gar­ments Fac­tory In­dia, Shahi Ex­ports,

SWF Fash­ions were some of the com­pa­nies that were present at the event. “The denim in­dus­try needed a plat­form like Denin­sand­jeans, where peo­ple can see, have dis­cus­sions and learn about what is hap­pen­ing in the in­dus­try. The qual­ity of visi­tors that we have seen is a clear re­flec­tion of how the denim in­dus­try is po­si­tion­ing for growth,” opined V Ilango, DGM-Mar­ket­ing, KG Denim.

Sus­tain­abil­ity and in­no­va­tion were the buzz words at this niche bou­tique show, and ev­ery ex­hibitor was talk­ing on sim­i­lar lines.

“We are a nat­u­rally sus­tain­able com­pany and though com­pe­ti­tion is heat­ing up, our tech­ni­cal strength in stretch fab­rics com­bined with our com­mit­ment to sus­tain­abil­ity will en­sure con­tin­ued sta­tus as pre­ferred sup­pli­ers for denim brands,” said Srini­vasa Ragha­van K, AGM – Ex­ports, KG Fabriks, Coim­bat­ore. Added Aditya Goyal,

MD, Anubha In­dus­tries, Su­rat, “De­spite mar­ket slow­down, there is a vi­brancy in the denim mar­ket, which not many other cat­e­gories can talk of, but that does not mean that it is smooth sail­ing…; only those who in­no­vate will sur­vive.”

The re­sult of this in­creased fo­cus on in­no­va­tion is that gar­ment man­u­fac­tur­ers/ex­porters work­ing in denim are now find­ing great va­ri­ety in In­dian mills to sup­port busi­ness.

The spin-off of this is that these man­u­fac­tur­ers are now con­vinc­ing in­ter­na­tional brands and re­tail­ers to stop nom­i­nat­ing in­ter­na­tional mills and al­low man­u­fac­tur­ers to source fab­ric from lo­cal re­sources. The sec­ond spin-off is that do­mes­tic brands are be­com­ing very de­sig­nori­ented and giv­ing in­ter­na­tional brands a run for their money.

All ex­hibitors em­pha­sized that the do­mes­tic re­tail po­ten­tial of denim wear is still largely un­ex­plored and the mar­ket size is too big to be ig­nored. No won­der, denim com­pa­nies from around the world are now eye­ing this ‘con­sumer-mine’. “I came to the fair with my team as a learn­ing ex­pe­ri­ence, but the type of in­ter­est I have seen in lo­cal brands for in­no­va­tion and qual­ity fab­ric, has con­vinced me that In­dia is a mar­ket ready to ex­plode and that we def­i­nitely need to be here,” said Gazi

Mah­bubul Alam, Direc­tor, Mah­mud Group, Dhaka. His views were echoed by Mu­nir Ahmed, Direc­tor, M&J Group, also from Dhaka and Ab­delka­der Amouche-Re­gional Man­ager (Asia) of Vi­cunha Têx­til, Brazil. Even the com­pa­nies of­fer­ing so­lu­tions to the denim in­dus­try like Coats (sewing so­lu­tions), Gar­mon (Sus­tain­able Chem­i­cals) and Rib­bon­tex SRL, Italy (la­bels) were ex­tremely sat­is­fied with the turnout. Though Arvind did not have a booth, they had put up an in­stal­la­tion in as­so­ci­a­tion with Pepe, and Aamir Akhtar CEO, Life­style Fab­rics – Denim spent a whole day in­ter­act­ing with all the par­tic­i­pants. He felt that In­dia is fi­nally poised to take the leap in denim… He was also con­fi­dent that many brands for the lo­cal mar­ket are in the mak­ing.

Visi­tors find value…

The en­thu­si­asm of the visi­tors to know more about sus­tain­able so­lu­tions was re­flected at the crowded booth of chem­i­cal gi­ant Gar­mon (Italy) along with the as­pi­ra­tions and ob­ser­va­tions of var­i­ous visi­tors. “The main thing that’s com­ing out is sus­tain­abil­ity as denim uses max­i­mum wa­ter, chem­i­cals, etc. Wash­ing with­out stone at­tracted me; there is no need for use of PP; all these au­to­mat­i­cally re­duce use of wa­ter and chem­i­cals. It helps a lot on cost as cost comes al­most 40 per cent down. L&J’s col­lec­tion at­tracted me with their PCW (post-con­sumer waste) fab­ric with good stretch­a­bil­ity,” shared Mo­hit Sri­vas­tava, De­signer and Ashok Yu­varaj, Deputy Man­ager – De­sign, E-Com­merce, Reliance Re­tail Lim­ited (Ajio).

Ajio is also launch­ing a new sus­tain­able con­cept, espe­cially for denim. Team VF Brands In­dia, Bangalore also echoed sim­i­lar opinion as San­jeev GK, Se­nior Man­ager – Sourc­ing said, “We have one of the most in­no­va­tive prod­uct of­fer­ings as well as are counted among one of the most re­spon­si­ble sourc­ing or­ga­ni­za­tions. We found an in­her­ent fo­cus on sus­tain­abil­ity in the show.” The team suc­cess­fully fig­ured out the prob­a­ble trend that would be there in the com­ing years. “Cur­rently 95 per cent of the denim for men we see is stretch but here we no­ticed that next 2-3 years are go­ing to be for rigid denim. Some such more in­puts will help us to plan ac­cord­ingly,” added Su­raj K, also a Se­nior Man­ager – Sourc­ing in this com­pany.

Sau­rabh Singh, Head of De­sign – Menswear, The Mand­hana Re­tail Ven­tures Ltd. (Be­ing Hu­man), Mum­bai also un­der­lined the same trend. He shared, “I liked the rigid look stretches as rigid seems to be back; sim­i­larly classic vin­tage was also in­ter­est­ing. Our main fo­cus is on au­then­tic vin­tage washes and that is where the whole struc­ture of the fab­rics and the grain, weave of the fab­rics play a very im­por­tant role. That is where the rigid look stretches are per­haps per­fect fab­rics for the look we want to achieve.” He fur­ther added that is dur­ing sem­i­nars at the show, in­ter­na­tional ex­perts re­ally en­light­ened him about washes, sus­tain­abil­ity, fore­cast­ing… Dif­fer­ent washes, espe­cially by over­seas ex­hibitors, at­tracted many top In­dian brands and re­tail­ers as Sachin Arun Kulka­rni, DGM, Sourc­ing, Mens Wear, Pan­taloons shared, “Some washes show­cased here are re­ally im­pres­sive, lot of

in­ter­na­tional in­put has seen here, it makes re­ally a dif­fer­ence when In­dian re­tail­ers im­ple­ment in­ter­na­tional trends in In­dian mar­kets, and that is the main learn­ing for me from this event.”

De­spite per­cep­tion of a glut in denim pro­duc­tion/sup­ply chain and dif­fi­cult mar­ket con­di­tions, some of the com­pa­nies claimed their busi­ness is go­ing good, they are over­booked and ex­pand­ing fur­ther. Marvel Denim (Par­tap Fab­rics), Am­bala (Haryana) has a slasher dye setup (sheet dye­ing tech­nol­ogy) with a ca­pac­ity of 3 mil­lion me­tres per month. It also ini­ti­ated its Hindupur (Andhra Pradesh) plant al­most two years back. Fur­ther it is tar­get­ing a new unit in Ahmed­abad which is sup­posed to be op­er­a­tional in the next 2 to 3 years. Nearly 80 per cent of this ca­pac­ity will go to do­mes­tic mar­ket, it is also tar­get­ing now Bangalore-based clients. “To have bet­ter sup­ply in do­mes­tic mar­ket, it is nec­es­sary to have plants across In­dia, and that is why we are hav­ing plants in all cor­ners,” said V Suresh, VP Mar­ket­ing of the com­pany.

Cur­rently sup­ply­ing to do­mes­tic gar­ment man­u­fac­tur­ers, Amek Fab­rics, Ahmed­abad, man­u­fac­tur­ing 2 lakh me­tres of denim fab­ric per month (80,000 me­tres for shirt­ing and 1,20,000 me­tres for bot­tom) dobby, plain, cot­ton, polyester or non­polyester base is ex­pand­ing into denim as well as non-denim seg­ments. “We are com­ing up with new unit and our ca­pac­ity will be dou­ble. New plant is ex­pected to start in Jan­uary 2018,” shared Am­br­ish Pad­mani, Direc­tor of the com­pany.

Some such other play­ers of denim fab­ric and al­lied cat­e­gories also vis­ited the show and shared that next year, they will surely par­tic­i­pate in the show. “The buy­ers’ turnout at the exhibition as well as dur­ing sem­i­nars was phe­nom­e­nal. We are very happy to see the re­sponses. We thank ev­ery­one for sup­port­ing us and I hope all the stake­hold­ers will surely get ben­e­fited by such events in a long run,” con­cluded San­deep Agar­wal - Founder and CEO of Den­im­sand­ and also the Or­ga­nizer of the event.

Gazi Mah­bubul Alam (C), Direc­tor, Mah­mud Group, Dhaka with his team. Gazi was very happy with the visi­tors and was ex­plor­ing fur­ther busi­ness op­por­tu­ni­ties in In­dia

Srini­vasa Ragha­van K (ex­treme right), AGM – Ex­ports, KG Fabriks, with his team at their booth

SK Raja, Global Qual­ity Direc­tor - Ap­parel & Footwear, Coats (sec­ond from left) with his col­leagues at the event

“I must ap­pre­ci­ate that ex­hibitors gave branded im­pres­sion; and espe­cially, Raymond and Nan­dan Denim im­pressed me with their for­ward think­ing and brand per­spec­tive. Brand­ing is some­thing In­dia has to cre­ate at ev­ery stage of tex­tile.”

– Tom McLel­lon, Con­sul­tant, Bangalore

“Over­all pre­sen­ta­tion and some of the wash­ing trends at­tracted me in the show. Cur­rently we are sourc­ing yarn from In­dia, and will hope­fully take part in this show next year as we are plan­ning to ex­plore In­dian mar­ket as a cus­tomer base.” – Md. Nazrul Is­lam, Head-Mar­ket­ing, Aaron Denim Lim­ited, Dhaka

“I was much im­pressed by the sem­i­nars and grow­ing con­cern for en­vi­ron­ment pushing ev­ery­one for sus­tain­abil­ity. Laser tech­nique is also im­pres­sive in this re­gard.” – Ananth Ku­mar R, Sr. Mer­chan­diser, VOI Jeans, Bangalore. The com­pany is work­ing with more than 30 ven­dors.

“Be­ing den­imwear guys, what we feel that if the base fab­ric is very good, we will get plenty of op­tion in washes it­self. Earth colours were in­ter­est­ing to see as some of the struc­tures were im­pres­sive. Fash­ion cir­cu­la­tion is very fast so it should be very vis­i­ble, and such events help us for the same.” – Team Life­style In­ter­na­tional (Land­mark Group): (L-R) Ku­nal Gupta, Se­nior Ex­ec­u­tive – De­sign; Nir­mal Suren­dran, Man­ager, De­sign – Ap­parel (Men); and Anand Singh, De­signer

“Dif­fer­ent types of jacquard fab­rics and tex­tures ap­pealed me. About 40 to 50 per cent stretch is also im­pres­sive. Some of the chem­i­cals were quite im­pres­sive as they can give the shade very quickly, while it takes a lot of time to get that shade.” – Bipin Na­hak, Fash­ion

Con­sul­tant, Delhi. Also seen on left is Su­man, Wash­ing

Tech­ni­cian, Mod­ern Dye­ing, Delhi

“We are ex­plor­ing good denim part­ners hav­ing spe­cial­iza­tion and equally strong prod­ucts from in­ter­na­tional brands and who can offer same in af­ford­able price.” – Anuj Goswami – GM, Busi­ness De­vel­op­ment (Tex­tile Di­vi­sion), Patan­jali Ayurved, Harid­war. The com­pany is com­ing up with an en­tire range of gar­ments and ac­ces­sories, cover­ing men’s, women’s and kidswear. By March 2018, it will launch its prod­ucts in the mar­ket.

“Pan­taloons may in­crease sourc­ing from Bangladesh. It de­pends on how much ca­pac­ity we can cap­ture, what kinds of goods one can bring on ta­ble, that is go­ing to be the key. Cur­rently we are sourc­ing just 5 to 6 per cent of our to­tal menswear from Bangladesh.” – Sachin Arun Kulka­rni, DGM, Sourc­ing, Menswear

(L) and Swati Chan­dak, As­sis­tant Man­ager, Sourc­ing, Pan­taloons, Mum­bai

“Dobby de­signs and loop­back (knit look in wo­ven denim) are more in use due to com­fort and is also more in de­mand. We have 10 core peo­ple in PD team and do have de­sign­ers in UK also and work strongly on fab­ric level also.” – D Sivakumar, Head Prod­uct De­vel­op­ment (L) and S Thangavelu, Fab­ric Man­ager Am­mayap­per Tex­tile (ATPL), Chen­nai. ATPL has a fac­tory purely ded­i­cated to fash­ion jeans and that too for kids. Hav­ing three fac­to­ries in Chen­nai, it pro­duces more than 5 lakh pieces per month.

“We do about 50,000 pieces per month and are ex­port­ing to Euro­pean coun­tries. Though cur­rently busi­ness is slow, we are ex­pect­ing more or­ders in fu­ture. We want to give dif­fer­ent prod­ucts, and that too man­u­fac­tured in our green fac­tory that started just 6 months back. As a busi­ness strat­egy we want to serve cus­tomer best.” – C. Veera­mani, Sourc­ing In-charge, KGI Cloth­ing, Chen­nai

“We have a team of 7 ex­perts in menswear sec­tion. We di­vide the work in terms of story/trend that we do in a sea­son. So each de­signer gets to work on a one par­tic­u­lar story/ trend fore­cast and he will do all the prod­uct cat­e­gories which are part of that par­tic­u­lar story. We want to make the col­lec­tion in a way which may be di­vided into mul­ti­ple sto­ries like a cap­sule that hits the store at a cer­tain pe­riod of time. . – Sau­rabh Singh, Head of De­sign – Menswear, Be­ing Hu­man

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