Fash­ion Busi­ness

Spring 2019

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Fab­ric Fore­cast: Spring 2019

Fab­ric is the bare-bones that can make or break any gar­ment. De­sign­ers and prod­uct de­vel­op­ment teams go on leg­endary hunts to pro­cure ma­te­ri­als that can trans­late the sea­son’s con­cepts well into re­al­ity.

For Spring 2019, the trends fo­cus on a san­guine flu­id­ity. The con­sumer wants prod­ucts that ap­pear feath­ery light and en­tic­ing to touch. How­ever, this does not mean that s/he is will­ing to sac­ri­fice on qual­ity.

Rather the move is to­wards ma­te­ri­als that last longer, per­form bet­ter and have a sense of nat­u­ral pro­tec­tion em­bed­ded in them.

As the con­ver­sa­tion around sus­tain­abil­ity gets louder each year, the prod­uct teams will have to de­vise ways of hy­bri­dis­ing all the op­tions avail­able to them like re­gen­er­ated, eth­i­cally pro­duced, nat­u­ral or man-made syn­thet­ics, to get the best re­sults.

Go­ing for­ward, de­sign­ers are mov­ing to­wards cloth­ing that is tran­si­tional, can be worn across sea­sons. Gen­der-speci­ficity has al­ready been dis­carded by some of the big names in the lux­ury in­dus­try. While this may not be a trend for mass mar­ket yet, it is surely go­ing to de­fine the way peo­ple per­ceive cloth­ing.

Brands and re­tail­ers have to cater to a wide range of de­mands as al­ways and thus, cross­breed mish­mash is a key theme. Adding a lit­tle ad­ven­ture to city life, na­ture to syn­thet­ics or just a lit­tle glam­our to day-to-day cloth­ing for a ‘jack of all trades’ ap­proach is non-ne­go­tiable. From the more ba­sic sport­slov­ing per­for­mance wear, to how tex­tile de­sign­ers are rein­vent­ing min­i­mal­ism, here are some of the most di­rec­tional trends for fab­rics and ma­te­ri­als for Spring/Sum­mer 2019.

SUMP­TU­OUS SIM­PLIC­ITY

It is no news to any­one that value ad­di­tion has gone down in the last cou­ple of years. Trends fix­ate more on ba­sics, and sim­i­larly Spring 2019 is a sea­son of visual sim­plic­ity that is still rich on a closer look. The fo­cus is mov­ing to­wards suave sup­ple­ness and qual­ity, wherein the idea is to bring back the ar­chives and add a mod­ern twist.

Isha Jain, Se­nior De­signer, ITX Ser­vices agrees with the theme, adding, “Fash­ion has be­come much cleaner. You will not see a lot of em­broi­deries; it is more about the crepe, tex­tures and heavy jacquards that you usu­ally see in up­hol­stery. We are also into very fine Turk­ish and Moroc­can fab­rics that are do­ing well. Even the styling has changed to make sil­hou­ettes cleaner so that the fab­ric is in fo­cus. De­tails like draped neck­line, con­trast pipe­lines or neck­ties are what we are fo­cus­ing on…”

Ev­ery­day fab­rics in tonal earthy shades with sub­tle slub or nep­ping to at­tain a bu­colic tex­tured noise qual­ity will be the go-to way to achieve a hand-wo­ven feel. Ac­cord­ing to Ari­ane Bigot, Deputy Fash­ion Direc­tor of Pre­miere Vi­sion Paris, “It is a sea­son of no­ble plains and so­phis­ti­cated mélanges, and den­sity is a gauge of lux­ury.” Sur­faces with effects like dobby stitch for a folksy ap­peal, hazy pow­der-like to touch as well as dy­namic pat­terns that chan­nel a crafty mood, to­gether fin­ish this hy­brid neo-vin­tage story.

Opaque silks with the round­ness of or­ganza, seer­suck­ers with more

dis­creet tex­tures, linen-like macro weaves and ul­tra-dense syn­thet­ics are some of the fab­ric styles that round off this trend.

FLUID

SUP­PLE­NESS

With all the digi­ti­sa­tion of hap­pen­ing in ev­ery di­rec­tion, this theme is a no-brainer. Our in­nate urge to touch, feel and con­nect with shiny sur­faces per­son­i­fies as fluid fab­rics and silk mir­rors be­come a cen­tral fea­ture of fash­ion col­lec­tions.

Menka Jha, Di­vi­sional Mer­chan­dis­ing Man­ager of Al­liance Mer­chan­dis­ing agrees fully with the fluid-first fash­ion move­ment adding, “Vis­cose is the fab­ric that will dom­i­nate the next year. Easy­go­ing sil­hou­ettes that are a com­plete op­po­site of the body-con­scious move­ment we were wit­ness­ing in the last decade, will drive the trend for fluid fab­rics. Even if you do ba­sic cot­ton, it has to be some­thing that looks ex­tremely fluid. Since value ad­di­tion is to­tally out, all you can re­ally do anymore is work with re­ally good fab­rics to add value.”

Tex­tile fin­ishes that give the im­pres­sion of be­ing frag­ile, play upon milky lim­pid­ity, del­i­cate ha­los like sub­tly washed Cupro, or Ly­ocell, will help de­sign­ers in cre­at­ing gar­ments which look like a sec­ond skin. Tex­tured light­weight sheers and lux­u­ri­ous silky fab­rics will de­fine not just the re­sort or evening­wear wardrobe but also women’s ready-towear lines.

Slight tex­tures for sum­mer lay­er­ing in mid-weight jersey, bright­ened cham­bray, tulle, silk and vis­cose blends with tone-on-tone struc­ture can cre­ate pow­er­ful sub­dued effects. In ad­di­tion, an in­ter­est­ing trend is of del­i­cate crys­tallised or clear plas­tic that looks wet and some­what like a jelly. This is an up­grade on last sea­son’s shine and sparkles, which them­selves have seeped into the 2019 fore­cast as well.

GET OUT & PLAY

The en­tire in­dus­try’s favourite trend of the mo­ment, and per­haps the driver of sig­nif­i­cant growth in the com­ing years are per­for­mance­ori­ented fab­rics. As the ex­pe­ri­ence econ­omy gains trac­tion, main­stream re­tail might not gain from this, yet it bears tremen­dous news for the sports in­dus­try.

Peo­ple will con­tinue favour­ing out­door ac­tiv­i­ties and ex­pe­ri­ences over buy­ing the lat­est trendy prod­uct in the mar­ket. Hence, even as com­fort re­mains a key fea­ture, the trend will ex­plore more colour and tex­ture vari­a­tions. As this seg­ment be­comes more of a norm, ath­leisure will now be re­de­fined as sim­ply ‘liv­ing wear’.

Multi-functional ma­te­ri­als like FIR and NIR yarns for enhanced well­be­ing, span­dex/elas­tane for stretch and re­cov­ery as well as fab­rics with cool touch, mois­ture man­age­ment, UV pro­tec­tion will gain steam over the year.

High stretch jacquards whether com­pact or tex­tured, closed or open will help in jazz­ing up ba­sic sport fab­rics. Stretchy metal­lic and lu­mi­nous coat­ings and high com­pres­sion warp knits cou­pled with dec­o­ra­tive open/lazer cut­ting will be the choice for more glam­our-fix­ated ath­leisure.

Preen by Thorn­ton Bregazzi

Sports­wear Pho­tog­ra­phy by Haifa Wøh­lers Olsen

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