Meet­ing the Sum­mers Head-ad-On!

Me­her Castelino re­ports from the Sum­mer/Re­sort 2017 Edi­tion of Lakmé Fash­ion Week

Apparel - - Contents -

A re­port on the Lakme Fash­ion Week S/R 2017


The lat­est edi­tion of Lakmé Fash­ion Week Sum­mer/Re­sort 2017 (LFW S/R 2017) changed its venue to Jio Gar­den, Ban­dra Kurla Com­plex, Mum­bai. The event was spread over the spa­cious 13,000 sq mts area un­der Air-con­di­tioned tents be­tween Fe­bru­ary 1-5, 2017.


The great be­gin­ning of LFW S/R 2017 started a few days prior to the event on Jan­uary 20, 2017, when re­sort wear spe­cial­ist Mon­isha Jais­ing’s glam­orous Spring/Sum­mer 2017 line was un­veiled on the top deck of the luxe cruise liner Costa NeoClas­sica, which had docked in Mum­bai. Lux­u­ri­ous cock­tail and re­sort wear cre­ations were the high­light of the show.

The Grand Fi­nale by ace de­signer Anita Don­gre was a col­lec­tion called ‘Alchemy’ in­spired by the Lakmé Ab­so­lute new ‘Liq­uid Gold’ with Ar­gan oil range was a daz­zling line of white, gold, sil­ver, em­bel­lished tu­nics, dresses, lehen­gas, cho­lis, du­pat­tas, and gowns at the grand and rus­tic Ban­dra Fort’s sur­real and lush green gar­dens.


This sea­son, it was fash­ion with so­cial mes­sages at­tached to it. A ‘Dhar­avi Dia­logue’ an­chored by Parmesh Sha­hani, Head, Go­drej Cul­ture Club, fea­tured Dhar­avi ar­ti­sans who had teamed up with top de­signer Jay Ram­rakhi­ani for his line of el­e­gant for­mal evening wear.

The Kranti with Man­deep Nagi show fea­tured the girls from Red Light ar­eas who pre­sented their lives in an in­ter­est­ing dra­matic man­ner, wear­ing Nagi’s Bagh Col­lec­tion of sus­tain­able clothes.

The ‘Tag Free’ show fea­tured 23 mod­els of diffd­if­fer­ent shapes, sizes, gen­ders and skin colou­colours, wear­ing cre­ations from seven top de­sigde­sign­ers with the mes­sage that there was no stere­ostereo­type tag in fash­ion.

The ‘NotWhatIWear’ show by was aimed at mak­ing a strong fash­ion state­ment en­couen­cour­ag­ing women to wear what they want, where and how.


Pre­sent­ingPrese the lat­est styles in hair and makeup, LakméLakm Salon tied up with top Delhi de­signer Amit Ag­gar­walAg­gar whose ‘Seam­less’ col­lec­tion for his la­bel AM.AIT of re­cy­cled, reused, old Pa­tola and ikat sasaris was a vis­ual treat for the eyes.


The 66De­gree Stu­dio show­cased a va­ri­ety of de­sign­ers’de­sig shows as well as ‘walk through’ pre­sen­ta­tions.prese WALK THROUGH PRE­SEN­TA­TIONS. Dev r Nil were in­spired by the mis­ery and strife in Kash­mir for their dis­play of in­ter­est­ing gar­ments with del­i­cate work.


Anuj Bhutani’s men’s and wom­enswear col­lec­tion was stark and sim­ple; while Quo pre­sented el­e­gant women’s looks. Maku Tex­tiles and Oshadi, both la­bels with a strong sus­tain­able fash­ion back­ground un­veiled or­ganic gar­ments with easy sil­hou­ettes. San­jukta Dutta’s Mekhela Chador saris were stun­ning weaves; while the Splash la­bel showed its lat­est Spring/Sum­mer 2017 col­lec­tions. Pi­nakin’s stylish cock­tail line called ‘Cham­pagne’ was for­mal evening wear. Goa’s Savio­jon Fer­nan­des dis­played anti-fit and re­sort wear shapes. Fahd Kha­tri’s tu­nics with in­no­va­tive fab­rics and Nan­dini Baruva’s re­laxed look were the ideal sum­mer wear. Karn Mal­ho­tra,

once again, brought semi-for­mal glam­our to the fore­front and Abha Choud­hary, Vidhi Wad­hwani and Sashi Van­ga­palli made des­ti­na­tion wed­ding at­tire. Paridhi Jaipuria and Jayanti Reddy gave ca­sual and bridal wear some in­ter­est­ing touches.


When it came to jew­ellery, the de­signs were mind-blow­ing. Rad­hika Jain’s MiRA and Eu­rumme cre­ated jew­ellery, which was in­spired by na­ture. But the Out­house col­lec­tion called ‘Imago’ was based on the cater­pil­lar and but­ter­fly theme. The brand Wan­der­ing Whites pre­sented jew­ellery from stones and junk from shop floors; while Sm­riti Dixit cre­ated jew­ellery from fab­rics and waste.


One of the most pop­u­lar days at LFW S/R 2017 was Sus­tain­able Fash­ion and In­dian Tex­tiles Day, ex­pertly cu­ratedd by Gau­tam Vazi­rani. The open­ing show by the Ar­ti­san’s Cen­tre sup­ported by Mantra Foun­da­tion show­cased I Was a Sari, Jam­bud­veep, The Stitch­ing Pro­ject, Wan­der­ing Whites and Sm­riti Dixit with a va­ri­ety of gar­ments and ac­ces­sories.

Sailesh Sing­ha­nia dis­played his col­lec­tion of khadi wo­ven saris, Galang Gabaan and House of Milk had cre­ations from sus­tain­able fab­rics with the lat­ter hav­ing heal­ing prop­er­ties s in the fab­rics. Naushad Ali, Indi­gene and Pad­maja Kr­ish­nan en­sured that eco-friendly, hand­wo­ven and hand-treated fab­rics played a part in their col­lec­tions. Am­rich had Shi­bori and spe­cially wo­ven fab­rics, Sayan­tan Sarkar had Gam­cha weaves from West Ben­gal; while So­ham Dave had nat­u­ral or­ganic fab­rics from weave to tag. The IMG Re­liance ‘Ar­ti­sans of Kutch’ show was a spec­ta­cle with seven de­sign­ers from So­maiya Kala Vidya show­ing

amix of Band­hani, Ajrakh and Suf- em­broi­dered saris. Chaman Siju showed his wo­ven be a beau­ties, Su­fiyan with Madame Hall. These had a mix of wester styles with In­dian Kutchi work. Shur­jan’s Pa­tel and Pamela Eas­ton brought an Indo-West fash­ion fan­tasy to life.


The five INIFD Gen Next de­sign­ers daz­zled the au­di­ence with their cre­ations. Pallavi Singh, Nakita Singh, Soumod­eep Dutta, Re­sham Karm­chan­dani and Sanya Suri, Isha­nee Mukher­jee and Anirudh Chawla brought style merged with eco-friendly fash­ion to the ramp.


Menswear made a great mark as well—with Ku­nal Rawal’s show in the car park of Jio Gar­den be­ing the high­light. Lots of tonal em­broi­dery for the kur­tas, churi­dars, sher­wa­nis and bundies rang­ing from pas­tel to rich colours with tra­di­tional fab­rics made an im­pact. The ‘Sus­tain­able Man’ show by Pero, Abra­ham & Thakore and Ra­jesh Pratap Singh was all about tex­tiles that were re­cy­cled, rreused and re­worked with waste ma­te­ri­als, old denim and plas­tic bot­tles turned into fab­rics for im­pres­sive un­con­ven­tional menswear. Naren­dra Ku­mar’s ‘The Mil­len­ni­als’ show for the boys-turned-men be­tween the ages of 18-25 years had colour and style for the young and trendy. Raamz and Chandrika Raamz pre­sented stylish menswear that was ideal for the 21st Cen­tury male.


Eth­nic Splen­dour came from Gau­rang Shah. His all white ‘Muslin’ col­lec­tion of ethe­real saris, lehen­gas, cho­lis, kur­tas, py­ja­mas and mag­nif­i­cent du­pat­tas were breath-tak­ing. Kot­wara’s white and black cre­ations with

chikankari work took the craft to a dif­fer­ent level for bridal wear. Tarun Tahil­iani’s ‘Chashme Shahi’ col­lec­tion of saris, lehen­gas, fu­sion gar­ments, draped sari gowns and kur­tas were vi­sions of ab­so­lute beauty. Divya Reddy pre­sented a line with pleated de­tail­ing for the re­sort wear bride;

while Amoh by Jade showed its ‘Amaat’ dif­fu­sion col­lec­tion that will thrill for­mal dressers. SVA’s ‘Noor’ col­lec­tion was a trib­ute to the nautch girls so the swirling cre­ations were gor­geous, while Anushree Reddy’s ‘An In­dian Sum­mer’ col­lec­tion was aimed at sum­mer bridal events.


This is a sil­hou­ette, which is ideal for sum­mer so the la­bel 11.11/eleven-eleven pre­sented ‘The Khadi Way’ and had re­laxed looks for both sexes; while Kar­ishma Sha­hani Khan pre­sented a colour­ful multi-lay­ered col­lec­tion. An­tar Agni went for a white/black col­lec­tion and Ur­vashi Kaur’s ‘Vasa’ col­lec­tion in an earthy pal­ette moved from dusty fawn to faint blush and then deeper shades of in­digo and olive with khadi and cot­ton; em­bel­lished with Ajrakh, Shi­bori, Le­heriya dye­ing, mi­cro-pleat­ing and hand­tuck­ing. EKA by Rina Singh had an ethe­real line with del­i­cate flow­ers splashed on it, while Chola, Rara Avis, Nishka Lula and Divya Sheth had re­laxed shapes for the hot sum­mer.


When it came to Red Car­pet glam­our, Fal­guni and Shane Pea­cock with their ‘Rebel’ col­lec­tion of tulle and se­quinned sheer long gowns and Amit GT’s roy­alty-in­spired ball gowns were the ul­ti­mate cre­ations. Farah San­jana of­fered a hol­i­dayy line with her ‘Hal­cyon Days of Spring’ col­lec­tion and the Mad­sam Tinzin la­bel brought the beauty of Ladakh with the ‘Brok-Pa’—a beau­ti­ful mix of cul­ture and fash­ion. Payal Sing­hal’s ‘Lady M’ col­lec­tion on (in­spired by Agatha Christie’s ‘Death on the Nile’) had retro glam­our on dis­play. Ri­tu­itu Ku­mar’s ‘Ma­haraja Pop’ was a colour­ful line ine with mil­i­tary de­tail­ing. Ar­pita Me­hta went the In­sta­gram way with her ‘Is­land Life’ cre­ations tions in soft pas­tel shades of ivory, peach, and white. Sh­weta Ka­pur’s ser­pent in­spi­ra­tionsns and Nupur Kanoi’s African look were beau­ti­fully cre­ated. Ur­vashi Joneja, Vrisa and Vineet-Rahul brought colour­ful printss to cen­tre stage.


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