Haute and Happening!
Meher Castelino offers a glimpse of the latest in fashion, straight from the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018 show.
The latest in fashion from the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/ Resort 2018
The 25th edition of Lakmé Fashion Week took place for the Summer/Resort 2018 season from January 31 to February 4, 2018 at JIO Gardens, Mumbai and was a fashionable and glamorous event, with nearly 100 designers presenting their latest looks for the coming season.
GEN NEXT STARS
The INIFD Gen Next Show featured five designers whose creativity ranged from feminine, layered, embroidered, printed, creations to androgynous gender-neutral fashion.
OFF THE RAMPS
Anita Dongre’s bridal wear show on the starlit terrace of the ITC Grand Central Hotel, called ‘Songs of Summer’, had practical clothes for the bridal couple, made from the new R | Elan fabric with the ‘Tree of Life’ motifs and Anita’s trademark pockets for the lehengas.
The Lakmé Absolute Grand Finale by Anamika Khanna at the picturesque Bandra Fort ended the fashion season. Inspired by the ‘Nudes Reinvented’ theme, the collection featured traditional embellishements with a modern twist on unconventional silhouettes and dramatic fabrics.
Gaurav Khanijo’s ‘Circa Malgudi’ collection was held at the Central Avenue of JIO Gardens. The menswear line with just two womenswear entries was nostalgic and inspired by the TV series ‘Malgudi Days’.
Giving menswear its due fame, Falguni and Shane Peacock launched their menswear brand. The collection called ‘Louche’ was a dazzling formal offering for men who are bold and dare to wear glitter.
Narendra Kumar’s Burgoyne linen line for men had a humorous title called ‘The Fake Show’. Created in just black, white and red, it was a casual athleisure offering. Amit Wadhwa’s menswear collection called ‘Treasure’ brought Slow Future fashion in specially woven fabrics in pastel hues, with discreet embroidery and his amazing reversible shirts and jackets.
UNCONVENTIONAL PRESENTATIONS The first of its kind show ever done at a fashion week was The Showroom Edit, that featured the 25 brands in the Showroom which did not feature on the ramp, but displayed one outfit each to a packed audience. The creations ranged from semiformal to bridal wear, with interesting cuts and embellishments. The Princess Pea and Lovebirds presentation called ‘Born of Fire’ was a short thought provoking event that pushed an emotional and social message with dance, speech and fashion.
SUSTAINABLE FASHION DAY
As always, the Sustainable Fashion Day was the most awaited. This time the North East Region designers from six states presented their textiles, turned into modern creations. The designers were Daniel Syiem, Meghalaya; Sonam Dubal, Assam; Jenjum Gadi and Exotic Eco Society, Nagaland; Kuzu, Sikkim; Tilla, Tripura; and Khumanthem, Manipur. Designer Padmaja Krishnan displayed her simple, lyrical line of specially woven, natural dyed, organic cotton and linen. The award-winning GoCoop showed ‘the good loom’ brand of its saris and menswear. Pankaja Sethi’s experiments with the Odisha weaves for saris were exciting; while Maku by Santanu Das displayed the ‘In Transit’ collection of special hand woven fabrics with an emphasis on Indigo. Hemang Agrawal’s ‘Un-Revive’ line was a grand showcase of modern weaves from Benaras in Tartan Checks, hounds tooth, polka dots and contrasting stripes done with precious metal yarns in Tanchui and Katarwaan weaving techniques.
The Usha Silai show was the launch of the Label Usha Silai presented by the manufacturer of the sewing machines, fans,
and home appliances. Four designers teamed with Usha Silai schools in four creative hubs. Soham Dave with the Dholka Cluster, Gujarat, Sreejith Jeevan with the Puducherry cluster, Sayantan Sarkar for 24 South Parganas, Mastikari Cluster West Bengal, Amit Vijaya and Richard Pandav for the Kaladhera Cluster, Rajasthan. The designers created modern styles that could easily be created by the women from their clusters.
The final show by Rajesh Pratap Singh featured the Tencel™ fibre presented in amazing weaves, colours and styles to suit the coming season.
LAKMÉ SALON’S NEW TRENDS
The Lakmé Salon’s ‘Free Spirits - Colour Cocktail’ collection inspired designers Ragini Ahuja of IKAI and Dhruv Kapoor whose easy, relaxed, lines matched the theme of the show.
6DEGREE STUDIO SHOWS
There was a cross-section of fashion at the 6Degree Studio where designers unveiled their looks for the coming season. The ‘half/Full/CURVE’ label created for plus size women showed colourful garments. Naushad Ali’s innovations in natural fabrics ended with a collection of stripes and dots called ‘When the Dot Took a Walk’. Rara Avis had a collection called ‘Koya’ that featured safari dresses, jumpsuits, coats, skirts and blouses. Shriya Som’s ‘Summer of Love’ look was dedicated to the Red Carpet dresser, while Lajjoo C stayed true to traditional, formal ethnic creations. Punit Balana’s ‘Rose Garden’ line was all about embellished western wear but Neha Agarwals ‘Lost in the Woods’ collection was a fusion of Indo-west ensembles. The 6Degrees brand featured eight designers, who showcased a variety of garments that moved from casual to formal, bridal and menswear.
FUSION FASHION For its creations ‘Ties that Bind’, the Amrich brand worked with loose shapes in Khadi and silk cotton blends with a metallic feel and Shibori. Urvashi Kaur’s ‘Prahara’ line featured Leheriya dyeing along with Shibori for tailored shirts, skirts, jumpsuits and dresses. Ritu Kumar went feisty and full of colour for the collection ‘Hip Hop Baroque’. The Bloni label paid homage to marine life with the line ‘Mourning of the Marine Life’ with Japanese lace, and recycled fabrics. The genderneutral creations by Sumiran Kabir Sharma for his label Anaam will thrill both sexes, while Shreya Oza’s ASA concentrated on fabric developments for the cool summer wear.
Vrisa presented ‘Chapter of the Forest’, which was full of floral bouquets for the alluring Chanderi creations. Ka-Sha by Karishma Shahani Khan was a layered look with multiple garments, but Shweta Kapur’s line for the 431-88 label preferred high fashion evening wear.
The colours of Gujarat and its garments inspired Saaksha & Kinni. Aikeyah by Isha Dhingra had the ‘Yin-Yang’ creations in just white and black but Verandah’s ‘Cruise 18-T91’ collection had a dual inspiration – the tiger and Chhatris for resort wear.
‘Bageechas’ inspired the Vineet Rahul brand, so florals appeared lavishly on their creations. The labels Tahweave, Crow and Nakita Singh went for pastel colours and extreme layering. Shantanu and Nikhil showcased ‘The Tribe – The India Story’ in black, white and chrome with micro-pleating and drapes for both men and women.
ETHNIC BRIDAL COUTURE
Amoh by JADE brought a grand line called ‘The Descendants of Niyam Raja’ in innovative designs. Gaurang Shah experimented with indigo for the ‘Neel’ collection of saris, kurtas, lehengas, cholis and dupattas. Anushree Reddy focused on ‘Pink the new Navy’ for her bridal wear line. SVA’s theme was ‘Dahlia’, so the flower appeared for glamorous bridal wear.
Roman, Byzantine and Persian influences on Islamic designs inspired Payal Singhal’s collection for a very oriental line called ‘Saira’. Kotwara brought Awadhi glamour with the ‘Samanzar – A Garden of Flowers’ collection with chikan work being the focal point. Ridhi Mehra Sekhri’s ‘Cinco’ collection was influenced by Islamic, Indian, Spanish and Chinese art forms for her bridal wear.
Jayanti Reddy presented ‘Life in Monochrome’ – a line of formal ethnic ensembles. Shyamal and Bhumika’s ‘Wonderland’ was true to its name, with lavish embellishments for gorgeous, ethereal Indian bridal wear. Tarun Tahiliani’s ‘Tarakini’ bridal wear was feather light and weightless with sparkling celestial motifs splashed all over the men’s and womenswear.
FASHION FORWARD SEMINARS
Besides fashion shows, seminars were the highlight of the five-day event. The dialogue on North East India catalysing sustainable fashion in collaboration with United Nations in India featured insights from global experts and new initiatives that will drive the north East Region fashion forward.
The ‘Fashion Funda’ event with Parmesh Shahani of India Culture Lab had an interesting theme – ‘Weave the Nation’ – where two films were screened on the weaving of fabrics and the story of weavers.
‘Innovation in Sustainable Fashion’ by the Lenzing Group was an interchange of ideas on fabrics like Tencel™ and Modal.
The Woolmark Company and Manish Malhotra unveiled the ‘Inaya’ Merino Wool inspired collection and captured the essence of sustainable fashion.
@AGAMI By Neha Agarwal
@Ikai by Ragini Ahuja
@431-88 by Shweta Kapur @ASA
@Innovation in Sustainable Fashion by Lenzing Group
@Shyamal and Bhumika