The Bridal Ex­trav­a­ganza!

Me­her Castelino brings us all the glam­orous bridal looks and trends from the re­cently con­cluded FDCI In­dia Cou­ture Week 2018.

Apparel - - Contents -

A re­port on the re­cent­lyently con­cluded FDCI In­dia Cou­ture Week 2018

The 11th edi­tion of the FDCI In­dia Cou­ture Week 2018 held in New Delhi from Au­gust 25-29, 2018 fea­tured 10 cou­turi­ers who un­veiled their bridal col­lec­tion. Pre­sented by Hin­dus­tan Times as well as Su­nil Sethi De­sign Al­liance and pow­ered by RK Jew­ellers, South Ex­ten­sion, the shows were a lav­ish dis­play of ex­quis­ite wed­ding trousseaux.


An Amit Ag­gar­wal show is al­ways an in­tense ex­per­i­ment in tex­tiles and mi­cro­scopic pat­terns with metal­lic in­ser­tions. His ‘Crystalis’ col­lec­tion was like a chrysalis that un­veils beauty from a co­coon in the form of a but­ter­fly with the sparkle of crys­tals. Sculpted, moulded gowns, pre-stitched saris and fu­sion wear ap­peared in jewel tones of rose quartz, sil­ver, onyx, emer­ald, amethyst, topaz, sap­phire with hints of rose gold, sil­ver, pewter and gold. In­dus­trial ma­te­ri­als were seam­lessly merged with zardozi and aari along with 3D em­broi­dery. The engi­neered cash­mere lace knit­ted in France by tex­tile de­signer Tanira Sethi was the per­fect bal­ance for the Red Car­pet cre­ations. Amit’s char­ac­ter­is­tic cord­ing, plissé and top­stitch­ing added to the glam­our of the en­sem­bles. There was a stylish an­gu­lar ac­cent in the sil­hou­ettes that brought drama to the drapes and a struc­tured ef­fect. The eye-catch­ing ear cuffs cre­ated by the jew­ellery brand Out­house were the per­fect ac­ces­sories.


Work­ing around a myth­i­cal muse–the Queen of the French cap­i­tal who vis­its Junagarh–the ‘Amour De Junagarh’ col­lec­tion by Falguni and Shane Pea­cock was a sym­phony of bridal cou­ture in pre­cious stones, feath­ers and crys­tals that recre­ated the beauty of the 13th cen­tury won­der Juna Ma­hal. It was a fes­tive and bridal col­lec­tion aimed at the mil­len­nial bride. The or­nate dresses, stun­ning glit­ter­ing lehen­gas and del­i­cate sari gowns were in rich re­gal hues. Per­sian vi­o­let, me­dieval blue, gold, plum, desert dust, ivory, honey, peach, laven­der and bur­gundy gave the cre­ations the show-stop­ping ap­peal. Adding to the grandeur of the col­lec­tion were the ac­ces­sories by Prak­shi Fine Jew­ellery that bal­anced the gar­ments beau­ti­fully with the Art Nou­veau pat­terns.


When it’s a Pallavi Jaikishan show there has to be a pro­fu­sion of her mas­ter­ful em­broi­dery. Her ‘Nos­tal­gia’ col­lec­tion brought to cen­tre stage her two-decade-old Chakra de­sign of flow­ers but with a con­tem­po­rary twist. Pallavi’s clas­sic flo­ral mo­tifs and French knots on saris were a dream to be­hold. Pallavi used lux­u­ri­ous fab­rics like tulle, geor­gette, duchess satin as well as sheer fab­rics, rich French lamé and tis­sue. The pleat­ing was ex­quis­ite on the French and Ital­ian bro­cade lehen­gas, blouses and du­pat­tas. The favourite Kabja blouse was matched with lehen­gas and saris. The sil­hou­ettes moved seam­lessly from the four cir­cle gha­gras over wide can-cans and then onto el­e­gant slim skirts, shararas and jack­ets. Pallavi’s cou­ture colours started with dove blue, old rose and sil­ver oys­ter and then glided to pink shades of cerise and cran­berry red along with a hint of mus­tard and metal­lic tones.


The fairy­tale col­lec­tion by Reynu Taan­don called ‘Once Upon a Dream’ came alive beau­ti­fully on the ramp, pre­sented by Ra­jni­gandha Sil­ver Pearls and jew­ellery by Ar­chana Ag­gar­wal. There was a grand show­case of beau­ti­ful flo­rals that came to cen­tre stage on the en­sem­bles, which were ideal for the trendy bride. Pas­tel hues, in­tri­cate de­tail­ing, amaz­ing se­quins work and del­i­cate fab­rics of­fered a frag­ile but fem­i­nine look. The muted colour story was turned into stun­ning sil­hou­ettes with the ex­otic mo­tifs adding to the beauty of the col­lec­tion.


Tarun Tahiliani’s ‘Ely­sium’ col­lec­tion brought shim­mer­ing flo­rals and weight­less drapes into bridal wear. Del­i­cate sil­hou­ettes were splashed with lay­ers of Swarovski crys­tals. Cas­cades of lace, Ital­ian tulle and French lamé daz­zled with zardozi, aari, Gota Patti and chikankari. Fringes and tas­sels fur­ther en­hanced the beauty of the lehen­gas, gowns, jack­ets and con­cept saris, which were crafted in chif­fon couch­ing, twisted sheer silk, laser cut tex­tiles, and rib­bon twisted or­ganza, many with de­tailed ap­pliqués. Shades of ivory, mauve, pow­der blue and tea rose moved in har­mony with ebony and bur­gundy, while splashes of pais­leys ap­peared in deep peach ochre and or­ange. Men’s wear was el­e­gant with sher­wa­nis, bundgalas and bundis high­lighted with cum­mer­bunds and fine pin tuck­ing.


Ro­mance ap­peared on the ramp for Suneet Varma when he un­veiled his ‘Naintara’ cou­ture line, with hints of his­tory and tra­di­tional In­dian touches as in­spi­ra­tion. The grand mélange of In­dian mo­tifs with ab­stract art fea­tur­ing stun­ning em­broi­dery was a per­fect bridal of­fer­ing. The 55 looks on the ramp shim­mered with se­quins and tan­ta­lis­ing fringes for the lehen­gas, gowns, saris and blouses. The colour card moved from soft pink, blue, red, white and ma­roon to strong black and gold. Fluid em­broi­dered palaz­zos ap­peared with a heav­ily beaded tu­nic, while a se­duc­tive beaded sheer blouse was aimed at the dar­ing dresser.


Rahul Mishra’s ‘Maraasim’ col­lec­tion was w an ode to re­la­tion­ships in Urdu as well as con­nec­tions with the past and present. In­spired by minia­ture paint­ings with a Mughal pres­ence, as well as Per­sian and Euro­pean in­flu­ences, along with hints of ge­om­e­try and arabesque, the pro­fu­sion of veg­e­tal mo­tifs, chevron and span­drels of­fered a dec­o­ra­tive vo­cab­u­lary. The capelets over eth­nic wear, del­i­cate em­bel­lished gowns, saris, lehen­gas, cho­lis and du­pat­tas in soft hues moved away from the pop­u­lar bridal tones. In­tro­duc­ing men’s wear, Rahul added the in­tri­cate hand em­broi­dery for the bundgalas, kur­tas and shawls. Us­ing Swarovski’s unique lac­quer crys­tals, Rahul en­sured that they added a sub­tle hint of shim­mer to the gar­ments.


Bring­ing Vic­to­rian glam­ourr to the fore­front, Anju Modi’s ‘A Maiden’s Prayer’ was a lush col­lec­tio­n­ion in velvevel­vet, et, silk, tulle and bro­cade in richich jewel hues.h Keep­ing the sil­hou­ettes tra­di­tion­ally In­dian, Anju brought in hints of a by­gone gone era with pe­plum edged jack­ets, fluid d bell sleeves, soft capelets over blouses, ses, and em­pire line, tiered, tulle jack­ets for printed lehen­gas. The el­e­gant tulle lle shawls edged with flo­ral em­broi­dery y formed an in­te­gral part of the fem­i­nine ne gowns. The or­nate vel­vet corset with h printed maxi skirt recre­ated the Vic­to­rian orian era. Men’s wear was re­gal, with hints s of em­broi­dery and in­tri­cate drapes in n tones of ivory, elec­tric and ma­roon for or sher­wa­nis and kur­tas.


The ‘Muse of Mir­rors’ was the grand ti­tle of the cou­ture col­lec­tion by Shyamal and Bhu­mika with jew­els by RK Jew­ellers, South Ex­ten­sion II. Cel­e­brat­ing their re­gal princess muse, the cre­ations were an or­ches­trated line in matka and raw silks, crepes, geor­gettes, tulle and or­ganza, all turned into dra­matic gowns and bridal wear in­spired by an­cient palaces, car­pets and up­hol­stery. From saris to lehen­gas, cho­lis, du­pat­tas, kur­tas and churi­dars, the col­lec­tion of­fered ver­sa­tile jack­ets and floor-kiss­ing gowns, while the stately sher­wani in rich bro­cades was a con­stant for men. The aari, zardozi and pitta em­broi­dery were crafted like flo­ral bou­quets. Rose gold, zari and silk threads high­lighted the scal­loped hems, while se­quins gave the ro­man­tic daz­zle. Shades of rose pink, ochre, moon grey, dusty mint, ivory and cham­pagne were merged ar­tis­ti­cally with colours like mid­night blue, emer­ald and crim­son.


Pre­sent­ing his Grand Fi­nale col­lec­tion called ‘Guldastah’, Ro­hit Bal once again held the au­di­ence spell­bound with his mas­tery over the tra­di­tional craft of em­broi­dery. Un­veil­ing a line of grand men’s and women’s wear, start­ing with the re­gal ivory and end­ing with dra­matic black, there was s just a soli­tary deep red. The ex­quis­ite bridal al line was a trib­ute to the flow­ers of Kash­mir– r– sun­flow­ers, pop­pies, tulips and peonies along ong with the grace­ful flamin­gos, all cre­ated in Re­sham em­broi­dery, zardozi and gold wire.e. The back­ground was the lux­u­ri­ous or­ganic cot­ton ton silk blends, chan­deris, silk or­ganza, silk and nd vel­vets. The flo­ral prints were the cyno­suree of all eyes as they ap­peared in mag­nif­i­cent gi­ant iant forms with quilt­ing and tex­tur­ing. Sil­hou­ettes es in­cluded fluid, bell sleeved, pan­elled gowns, s, wrap-around blouses, saris with long-sleeved ved boleros, capelets, or­nate jack­ets and sen­su­ous su­ous skirts. Men’s wear stayed sober with bundgalas, dgalas, Jodh­puri jack­ets and trousers, sher­wa­nis and an oc­ca­sional lungi skirt. Ro­hit’s trade­mark multi-mul­ti­tiered, di­aphanous, swirling kur­tas made a dra­matic ap­pear­ance. It was a col­lec­tion n that was wor­thy of dis­play in an art mu­seum um with its mem­o­rable crafts.

All in all, the FDCI In­dia Cou­ture Week 2018 8 show­cased a charm­ing and daz­zling cor­nu­copia of glam­our, grandeur and in­no­va­tion, and set the stage for the up­com­ing bridal sea­son.


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