The Bridal Extravaganza!
Meher Castelino brings us all the glamorous bridal looks and trends from the recently concluded FDCI India Couture Week 2018.
A report on the recentlyently concluded FDCI India Couture Week 2018
The 11th edition of the FDCI India Couture Week 2018 held in New Delhi from August 25-29, 2018 featured 10 couturiers who unveiled their bridal collection. Presented by Hindustan Times as well as Sunil Sethi Design Alliance and powered by RK Jewellers, South Extension, the shows were a lavish display of exquisite wedding trousseaux.
AMIT AGGARWAL – CRYSTALIS
An Amit Aggarwal show is always an intense experiment in textiles and microscopic patterns with metallic insertions. His ‘Crystalis’ collection was like a chrysalis that unveils beauty from a cocoon in the form of a butterfly with the sparkle of crystals. Sculpted, moulded gowns, pre-stitched saris and fusion wear appeared in jewel tones of rose quartz, silver, onyx, emerald, amethyst, topaz, sapphire with hints of rose gold, silver, pewter and gold. Industrial materials were seamlessly merged with zardozi and aari along with 3D embroidery. The engineered cashmere lace knitted in France by textile designer Tanira Sethi was the perfect balance for the Red Carpet creations. Amit’s characteristic cording, plissé and topstitching added to the glamour of the ensembles. There was a stylish angular accent in the silhouettes that brought drama to the drapes and a structured effect. The eye-catching ear cuffs created by the jewellery brand Outhouse were the perfect accessories.
FALGUNI AND SHANE PEACOCK – AMOUR DE JUNAGARH
Working around a mythical muse–the Queen of the French capital who visits Junagarh–the ‘Amour De Junagarh’ collection by Falguni and Shane Peacock was a symphony of bridal couture in precious stones, feathers and crystals that recreated the beauty of the 13th century wonder Juna Mahal. It was a festive and bridal collection aimed at the millennial bride. The ornate dresses, stunning glittering lehengas and delicate sari gowns were in rich regal hues. Persian violet, medieval blue, gold, plum, desert dust, ivory, honey, peach, lavender and burgundy gave the creations the show-stopping appeal. Adding to the grandeur of the collection were the accessories by Prakshi Fine Jewellery that balanced the garments beautifully with the Art Nouveau patterns.
PALLAVI JAIKISHAN – NOSTALGIA
When it’s a Pallavi Jaikishan show there has to be a profusion of her masterful embroidery. Her ‘Nostalgia’ collection brought to centre stage her two-decade-old Chakra design of flowers but with a contemporary twist. Pallavi’s classic floral motifs and French knots on saris were a dream to behold. Pallavi used luxurious fabrics like tulle, georgette, duchess satin as well as sheer fabrics, rich French lamé and tissue. The pleating was exquisite on the French and Italian brocade lehengas, blouses and dupattas. The favourite Kabja blouse was matched with lehengas and saris. The silhouettes moved seamlessly from the four circle ghagras over wide can-cans and then onto elegant slim skirts, shararas and jackets. Pallavi’s couture colours started with dove blue, old rose and silver oyster and then glided to pink shades of cerise and cranberry red along with a hint of mustard and metallic tones.
REYNU TAANDON – ONCE UPON A DREAM
The fairytale collection by Reynu Taandon called ‘Once Upon a Dream’ came alive beautifully on the ramp, presented by Rajnigandha Silver Pearls and jewellery by Archana Aggarwal. There was a grand showcase of beautiful florals that came to centre stage on the ensembles, which were ideal for the trendy bride. Pastel hues, intricate detailing, amazing sequins work and delicate fabrics offered a fragile but feminine look. The muted colour story was turned into stunning silhouettes with the exotic motifs adding to the beauty of the collection.
TARUN TAHILIANI – ELYSIUM – AN ETHEREAL LIGHTNESS OF BEING
Tarun Tahiliani’s ‘Elysium’ collection brought shimmering florals and weightless drapes into bridal wear. Delicate silhouettes were splashed with layers of Swarovski crystals. Cascades of lace, Italian tulle and French lamé dazzled with zardozi, aari, Gota Patti and chikankari. Fringes and tassels further enhanced the beauty of the lehengas, gowns, jackets and concept saris, which were crafted in chiffon couching, twisted sheer silk, laser cut textiles, and ribbon twisted organza, many with detailed appliqués. Shades of ivory, mauve, powder blue and tea rose moved in harmony with ebony and burgundy, while splashes of paisleys appeared in deep peach ochre and orange. Men’s wear was elegant with sherwanis, bundgalas and bundis highlighted with cummerbunds and fine pin tucking.
SUNEET VARMA – NAINTARA
Romance appeared on the ramp for Suneet Varma when he unveiled his ‘Naintara’ couture line, with hints of history and traditional Indian touches as inspiration. The grand mélange of Indian motifs with abstract art featuring stunning embroidery was a perfect bridal offering. The 55 looks on the ramp shimmered with sequins and tantalising fringes for the lehengas, gowns, saris and blouses. The colour card moved from soft pink, blue, red, white and maroon to strong black and gold. Fluid embroidered palazzos appeared with a heavily beaded tunic, while a seductive beaded sheer blouse was aimed at the daring dresser.
RAHUL MISHRA – MARAASIM
Rahul Mishra’s ‘Maraasim’ collection was w an ode to relationships in Urdu as well as connections with the past and present. Inspired by miniature paintings with a Mughal presence, as well as Persian and European influences, along with hints of geometry and arabesque, the profusion of vegetal motifs, chevron and spandrels offered a decorative vocabulary. The capelets over ethnic wear, delicate embellished gowns, saris, lehengas, cholis and dupattas in soft hues moved away from the popular bridal tones. Introducing men’s wear, Rahul added the intricate hand embroidery for the bundgalas, kurtas and shawls. Using Swarovski’s unique lacquer crystals, Rahul ensured that they added a subtle hint of shimmer to the garments.
ANJU MODI – A MAIDEN’S DEN’S PRAYER
Bringing Victorian glamourr to the forefront, Anju Modi’s ‘A Maiden’s Prayer’ was a lush collectionion in velvevelvet, et, silk, tulle and brocade in richich jewel hues.h Keeping the silhouettes traditionally Indian, Anju brought in hints of a bygone gone era with peplum edged jackets, fluid d bell sleeves, soft capelets over blouses, ses, and empire line, tiered, tulle jackets for printed lehengas. The elegant tulle lle shawls edged with floral embroidery y formed an integral part of the feminine ne gowns. The ornate velvet corset with h printed maxi skirt recreated the Victorian orian era. Men’s wear was regal, with hints s of embroidery and intricate drapes in n tones of ivory, electric and maroon for or sherwanis and kurtas.
SHYAMAL AND BHUMIKA – MUSE OF MIRRORS
The ‘Muse of Mirrors’ was the grand title of the couture collection by Shyamal and Bhumika with jewels by RK Jewellers, South Extension II. Celebrating their regal princess muse, the creations were an orchestrated line in matka and raw silks, crepes, georgettes, tulle and organza, all turned into dramatic gowns and bridal wear inspired by ancient palaces, carpets and upholstery. From saris to lehengas, cholis, dupattas, kurtas and churidars, the collection offered versatile jackets and floor-kissing gowns, while the stately sherwani in rich brocades was a constant for men. The aari, zardozi and pitta embroidery were crafted like floral bouquets. Rose gold, zari and silk threads highlighted the scalloped hems, while sequins gave the romantic dazzle. Shades of rose pink, ochre, moon grey, dusty mint, ivory and champagne were merged artistically with colours like midnight blue, emerald and crimson.
ROHIT BAL – GULDASTAH
Presenting his Grand Finale collection called ‘Guldastah’, Rohit Bal once again held the audience spellbound with his mastery over the traditional craft of embroidery. Unveiling a line of grand men’s and women’s wear, starting with the regal ivory and ending with dramatic black, there was s just a solitary deep red. The exquisite bridal al line was a tribute to the flowers of Kashmir– r– sunflowers, poppies, tulips and peonies along ong with the graceful flamingos, all created in Resham embroidery, zardozi and gold wire.e. The background was the luxurious organic cotton ton silk blends, chanderis, silk organza, silk and nd velvets. The floral prints were the cynosuree of all eyes as they appeared in magnificent giant iant forms with quilting and texturing. Silhouettes es included fluid, bell sleeved, panelled gowns, s, wrap-around blouses, saris with long-sleeved ved boleros, capelets, ornate jackets and sensuous suous skirts. Men’s wear stayed sober with bundgalas, dgalas, Jodhpuri jackets and trousers, sherwanis and an occasional lungi skirt. Rohit’s trademark multi-multitiered, diaphanous, swirling kurtas made a dramatic appearance. It was a collection n that was worthy of display in an art museum um with its memorable crafts.
All in all, the FDCI India Couture Week 2018 8 showcased a charming and dazzling cornucopia of glamour, grandeur and innovation, and set the stage for the upcoming bridal season.