Business of Fashion - - Contents - TRENDS & IN­SIGHTS FES­TIVE & OC­CA­SION WEAR || Re­port By: The Fash­ion Fore­caster

The Fash­ion Fore­caster un­veils three trends that will in­flu­ence the up­com­ing fes­tive & oc­ca­sion sea­son — Un­gen­dered, Con­scious and Af­ford­able. A de­tailed re­port.

Fash­ion is about some­thing that comes from within you, ex­press­ing your iden­tity, show­ing some­one who you are through your cloth­ing choices and us­ing your clothes to tell some­one some­thing about you. How­ever with the cur­rent up­surge of iden­tity politics in gen­der, In­dian fash­ion in­dus­try is go­ing through a gen­der rev­o­lu­tion, breaking no­tions of stereo­types and cre­at­ing a new cul­ture of “gen­der­less” cloth­ing op­tions.

In­dia did not have gen­der dif­fer­en­ti­a­tion in its tra­di­tion of gar­ment con­struc­tion. His­tory of In­dian menswear is rife with makeup, swish­ing an­garakhas, anarkalis, lungis and du­pat­tas, and heavy jew­ellery along­with color and fabric choices sim­i­lar to those used for tra­di­tional cos­tumes for women.

The Bri­tish Raj brought the so­ci­etal con­di­tion­ing for cre­at­ing gen­der spe­cific cos­tumes which was preva­lent in Europe. This heav­ily in­flu­enced the no­tion of cloth­ing in In­dia over the sub­se­quent decades, fur­ther aided by the fast fash­ion cloth­ing cul­ture. How­ever de­sign­ers are in­creas­ingly us­ing fash­ion as a tool to bring back our lost his­tory of gen­der dis­so­lu­tion.

This sea­son of oc­ca­sion wear is wit­ness­ing a pro­nounced ef­fect of blurred lines in gen­der de­fin­i­tive gar­ments and so­ci­etal def­i­ni­tions of cloth­ing cat­e­gories. The play of iden­tity is high­lighted in the com­fort­ing yet dra­matic ar­ray of color op­tions as well as print de­signs.

Con­ver­sa­tions about sex, open­ing up and even the LGBTQ com­mu­nity find­ing rep­re­sen­ta­tion in the me­dia is talk­ing about a cross cul­tural ex­change of ideas. This ex­change is shown by the well co­or­di­nated prints sto­ries seen in en­sem­ble by Ur­vashi Kaur and and Nakita Singh. Ab­strac­tion is play­ing a ma­jor role in ex­pres­sion of ideas and hence sim­plis­tic flo­ral forms or non de­fined mo­tifs are tak­ing the centrestage.

In a ma­tri­ar­chal set-up with par­ents adopt­ing non-nor­ma­tive gen­der roles with ease, this con­cept of gen­der re­flects flu­id­ity. Be­ing called con­scious mil­lenials, role of gen­der has seeped far into our doc­trine of so­ci­ety. It has found its ex­pres­sion in the form of vin­tage color op­tions that are more so­phis­ti­cated in lan­guage and per­cep­tion. An un­pro­voked nostal­gia is seen to be present through­out all the de­signs and pat­terns spot­ted dur­ing the up­com­ing sea­son. Rem­i­nis­cence, non evoca­tive yet ef­fec­tive use of tints high­lighted in fash­ion col­lec­tions are clearly de­mar­cat­ing a dual color dom­i­nance over the mar­ket. De­signs are dom­i­nated by monochro­matic tones or two hues paired to­gether re­flect­ing gen­der bi­nary no­tions and tonals or gra­di­ents, sug­gest­ing the bro­ken stereo­types of gen­der bi­nary politics. Jux­ta­po­si­tion of two tones heighten a sense of con­trast, and cre­ates a mood that is fan­tas­ti­cal and oth­er­worldly cre­at­ing a cross gen­er­a­tional palette. Sublim­i­nal pres­ence of mid­tones is highly im­pact­ful to­wards set­ting trends this sea­son adap­tive to all gen­ders through­out.

from left to right Sha­hab ud Din Mo­ham­mad Khur­ram, Shah Ja­han | “Wo­man with a Flower’, 17th cen­tury Mughal minia­ture, Women in Art Se­ries, Mu­seum of Fine Art, Bos­ton | Ran­vir Singh in a still from the film Ba­ji­rao Mas­tani | ‘Last Dance of the Cour­te­san’, Tarun Tahiliani’s In­dia Cou­ture Week 2016 | Ro­hit Bal, Gul­bagh 2014

1 1. Ur­vashi Kaur | LFW Win­ter/ Fes­tive 2018 || 2. Rahul Mishra | ICW 2018 || 3. 1. An­tar Agni | LFW Win­ter/ Fes­tive 2018, || 4 & 5. Ra­jesh Pratap Singh | LFW Win­ter/ Fes­tive 2018 || 6. Sid­desh Chauhan | LFW Win­ter/ Fes­tive 2018






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