Col­umns on the trench coat, vin­tage car mar­ket and au­to­mated driv­ing

Sandeep Gon­salves tells us what we need to look out for when choos­ing or tai­lor-mak­ing a trench coat

Business Traveller (India) - - CONTENTS - SANDEEP GON­SALVES BE­SPOKE TAI­LOR, SE­RIAL SARTORIALIST AND FOUNDER OF MUM­BAI-BASED, SS HOMME

The khaki trench is a time­less clas­sic, loved by gen­tle­men of all ages. In­ter­est­ingly, this is one gar­ment that has not wit­nessed any ma­jor changes in its de­sign over the past cen­tury, largely be­cause it is so func­tional. Whether you’re buy­ing your next trench off the rack, or call­ing on your be­spoke tai­lor for a cus­tom-made one, here are some poin­t­ers to keep in mind. So here goes —

THE FAB­RIC:

Look for a wa­ter-re­pel­lent, light­weight gabar­dine cot­ton, es­pe­cially if you live in a hu­mid city. A more stylish op­tion would be a trench in pure cash­mere, with some leather de­tails.

THE STRUC­TURE

While the norm largely rec­om­mends a dou­ble-breasted trench coat, con­tem­po­rary de­sign­ers have ex­per­i­mented with sin­gle­breasted styles to suit leaner frames, in keep­ing with the slim sil­hou­ettes of to­day’s trends. That said, a dou­ble-breasted op­tion gives you that ex­tra pro­tec­tion in harsh weather.

STYLE THE COL­LAR

We dig the charm of a trench’s wide lapel and napoleon col­lar. For that ex­tra be­spoke touch, there’s noth­ing like hav­ing your ini­tials en­graved on the col­lar.

FUNC­TIONAL EL­E­MENTS

The gun flap comes to the res­cue dur­ing heavy rain. Con­structed specif­i­cally to pre­vent wa­ter from seep­ing in, and is usu­ally sit­u­ated at the right of the gar­ment. Look for minute de­tails like epaulettes, which were orig­i­nally crafted for army of­fi­cers to pin their badges on.

THE BELT AND THE D-RINGS

A well-de­signed trench will also have D-rings at­tached to the belt to carry es­sen­tial items that can be hooked onto the rings.

IDEN­TI­FY­ING THE RIGHT LENGTH

Shorter gents should stick to coats that sit just above the knee. How­ever, if you’re on the taller side, al­ways go for a trench coat that falls just be­low the knees to avoid look­ing awk­ward and un­com­fort­able.

DE­CON­STRUCT­ING THE IN­TE­RI­ORS

Opt for sewn-in in­su­lated lin­ing that could keep you warm in colder weather or you could choose to stick to re­mov­able in­su­lated lin­ing that of­fers ver­sa­til­ity in trop­i­cal con­di­tions. To cus­tomise it fur­ther, you could se­lect the de­tail­ing of the lin­ing and match it with the de­tail­ing of the cuff straps and but­tons to achieve a more com­plete look.

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