CALCUTTA BUNGALOW & THE CORNER COURTYARD
For modern-day staycations
From the sunset years of the British Raj to the abolishment of zamindari in 1951, rajbaris in Kolkata became increasingly difficult to maintain on dwindling incomes. The time also signalled the rise of the Bengali bhadralok (gentlefolk), who bridged the gap between zamindari excess and the Europeaninfluenced, heightened Bengali aesthetics. Enters the city townhouse, a residence pared down in size, but still maintaining architectural and artistic remnants from the larger mansions. With young entrepreneurs taking over these buildings in recent years, you can expect sangria evenings, sourdough masterclasses, and curated walks around bustling neighbourhoods. If you’re in Kolkata for work, you can get a crash course in heritage by checking into either of these two B&Bs.
The Corner Courtyard hides in plain sight on Sarat Bose Road, a whitewashed building where the central courtyard now serves as a restaurant lined with bookshelves and a wall of antique door knobs. Even non-residents drop by for the excellent continental breakfast and an allday menu featuring satays, New Zealand lamb chops, grilled bhetki fish, and some of the city’s best pizzas. All six guestrooms are colour-themed; we recommend Charcoal with its deliberate Satyajit Ray-hangover. Take the narrow stairs up to your room and you’ll notice the decor maintains several elements from the original building that was last inhabited in 1904.
Calcutta Bungalow is even more hippie. Candy pink and mint exteriors, colourblocked rooms with little balconies, vintage typewriters and neon signs paint the once collapsing structure with a youthful charm. The rooms are named after city paras (localities); Jatra-Patra is particularly winsome, with puppets lining the walls that bring in a whiff of Bengal’s popular street theatre. There are guided walks and bicycle tours on offer to explore the quirks of the culture-rich neighbourhood.