SONNETS IN STONE
DESIGNER NIRAV MODI GOES BEYOND TRENDS TO DEFINE TIMELESS, WHEN IT COMES TO JEWELLERY
When it comes to jewellery, I am uncomfortable with use of the term trend since it implies a collective and fleeting obsession with a form or stone. As a jeweller I strive to create pieces that have distinctiveness and timelessness at their core. Diamonds in particular, with their rarity and indestructibility, proffer a unique lure in this regard.
Important trends, then, at least for me, are concepts that alter the status quo; styles that are upcoming yet more significantly pervasive enough to survive the continuity of generations or the whims of buyers. Here are three trends or waves that I believe are noteworthy and have percolated into my collections as well.
Van Cleef & Arpels were pioneers in jewellery craftsmanship and design. In fact, as far back as 1933 they patented the now famous Serti mysterieux or ‘ mystery setting’ which allows stones to be set in a mosaic bed undisturbed by metal prongs. And this march towards a minimal metal look has not attenuated even in the 21st century. As more jewellers develop technical prowess and consumers crave a sleek look, we see an impressive refinement in jewellery, especially in the context of diamond cuts and jewellery setting. I have recently developed what is known as the endless cut with an enigma setting as well as the ainra cuts, both of which have been well received. The endless cut creates a seamless halo of diamonds symbolising infinity. When endless cut diamonds are set, no metal can be seen holding the diamonds in place. Therefore, this creates a seamless halo of diamonds symbolising infinity. All diamonds in such cases are cut from a single
rough diamond and are calibrated to ensure a precise curvature.
As far as the ainra cut is concerned, the diamond links are crafted from two crescent- shaped diamonds which then replace the metal chains that are traditionally used in jewellery. We use them to connect the main stones at the very top and bottom of dangling earrings, and in necklaces, to suspend the pendent and to craft a lattice around fancy coloured diamonds in bracelets. Unlike metal, which is opaque, the lustre of diamonds creates a linkage of pure light, creating the impression that the diamonds are simply floating.
As metaphors go, the feminine form, in my opinion, is the closest simulation to fluidity especially when it is draped in a traditional Indian swathe of fabric in the form of an anarkali or sari. I am thrilled to see jewellers finally embracing fluidity, both in terms of design and craftsmanship. Chanel’s new Collection Ruban, or ribbon collection uses knots and bows reminiscent of ribbons to create an aura of femininity and fluidity.
The scarf and sari necklaces, which are my newest pieces, are designed to evoke the twists and turns of fabric and are extremely agile. As a result, each element can be moved and the necklackes conform to the rhythm of any movement. So much so that a guest at the Nirav Modi salon was recently shocked to see that the scarf necklace completely collapsed to fit into her palm.
MULTI- PURPOSE JEWELLERY
It is perhaps a truism to say that we live in an age of choice and power at your fingertips. Consumers don’t just look for something new but what’s never- beforeseen and the desire is to identify posses- PATENTED NM ENDLESS CUT: THE BAND SYMBOLISES INFINITY WITH CALIBRATED DIAMONDS OF EQUAL CURVATURE CREATING A HALO IN 18- CARAT WHITE GOLD
AINRA TM EMERALD EARRING: TWO EMERALD SHAPED DIAMONDS JOINED TOGETHER BY THE UNIQUE NIRAV MODI PATENTED AINRATM DIAMOND LINKS ( RIGHT)