EAT STREET

Twelve of the finest restau­rants in the world

India Today - - CONTENTS - By BRUCE PALLING

In the hal­lowed world of restau­rants, the search for the finest plates is an ex­act­ing task as each year the food or­der is shaken by the ar­rival of a new star. Here’s our list of the cur­rent reign­ing favourites from the world of fine din­ing. Bon Apetit.

Pav­il­ion Le­doyen, Paris

Yan­nick Al­léno, the hand­some, rock star chef, is the only per­son to run two three star Miche­lin restau­rants in France. More than 200 years old, Le­doyen is in a mag­i­cal lo­ca­tion off the Champs d’El­y­see, with in­no­va­tive food en­hanced by his con­tin­ual ex­per­i­ments with sauces. Al­léno is also a cham­pion of lo­cal pro­duce, hav­ing helped re­vive great small pro­duc­ers sur­round­ing Paris. Stand out dish? Sea Urchin soup served in a grape­fruit shell with duck skin and foie gras. http://www.yan­nick-al­leno.com Meal for two € 600 with­out al­co­hol

Os­te­ria Frances­cana, Mo­dena, Italy

The vol­u­ble Massimo Bot­tura cre­ates in­spi­ra­tional “story telling” food from hare-brained con­cepts about medieval bat­tles in his na­tive Emilia-Ro­magna or Pi­casso’s def­i­ni­tion of Cu­bism. The restau­rant is tucked away in a side street in Mo­dena and is adorned with se­ri­ous con­tem­po­rary art. What mat­ters though is how de­li­cious the food is. This could be his pasta dish of “the crunchy part of Lasagne”, “the five ages of Parmesan” or “Oops. I dropped the Le­mon Tart”. www.os­te­ri­afrances­cana.it Meal for two €550 with­out al­co­hol

Ul­travi­o­let by Paul Pairet, Shang­hai

French-born Paul Pairet suc­ceeds in cre­at­ing the most bril­liant dishes for 10 peo­ple at a sit­ting sur­rounded by the great­est son et lu­miere dis­play imag­in­able. Din­ers are taken to a mys­tery des­ti­na­tion in Shang­hai and then plunged into three hours of

fan­tasy, us­ing ev­ery vis­ual and ol­fac­tory trick in the book. The end re­sult is not some kitsch ren­di­tion but an ex­tra­or­di­nary cre­ative jour­ney. www.uvbypp.cc; Meal for two €900 with­out al­co­hol

At­tica, Mel­bourne

Ben Shewry has done more than any other Aus­tralian chef to cre­ate the most ex­cit­ing food in the coun­try by us­ing lo­cal pro­duce. This is not some na­tion­al­is­tic cel­e­bra­tion of Aus­tralian­ness but a bril­liant in­ter­pre­ta­tion of na­tive pro­duce no one knew ex­isted. For­ag­ing is a daily oc­cur­rence though the level of cook­ing here is at the same heights as any great haute cui­sine es­tab­lish­ment. High­lights in­clude Salted red kan­ga­roo with bunya bunya (a vari­ant of a pine tree). www. at­tica.com.au; Meal for two €350 with­out al­co­hol

Mi­razur, Men­ton, France

Ar­gen­tinian Mauro Co­la­greco makes in­spi­ra­tional dishes from his own vast veg­etable gar­den plus hand caught seafood from the Mediter­ranean. Perched on the Ital­ian bor­der, he grows more than 250 va­ri­eties of veg­eta­bles on the hill be­hind his restau­rant. The lo­cal fish­er­men call him if they catch any in­ter­est­ing seafood and he picks it up im­me­di­ately. His restau­rant also has one of the most spec­tac­u­lar views of the Riviera coast­line. www.mi­razur.fr; Meal for two €350 with­out al­co­hol

Cen­tral, Lima

Vir­gilio Martinez is per­haps the main rea­sons Peruvian cui­sine has taken the culi­nary world by storm in the past decade. His 17 course tast­ing menu ex­plores an en­tire range of prod­ucts from the An­des, Ama­zon and Ocean. He rein­ter­prets clas­sic dishes such as ce­viche and uses fruits, herbs and veg­eta­bles, which are even un­known in his na­tive Peru. Reg­u­larly voted the top chef in Latin Amer­ica, he has just made it into the top ten restau­rants of the 50 Best Restau­rants of the World. www.cen­tral­restau­rante.com; Meal for two €230 with­out al­co­hol

Louis Quinze, Monaco

The flag­ship of the Alain Du­casse culi­nary em­pire, Le Louis Quinze is lo­cated in one of the most sump­tu­ous lo­ca­tions imag­in­able with food to match. Du­casse was the first chef to win three Miche­lin stars for a ho­tel restau­rant, some­thing that he has man­aged to repli­cate in sev­eral oth­ers. One of the most lux­u­ri­ous din­ing rooms in the world in the Ho­tel de Paris; it has

just been given a makeover with new sculpted zones to serve the food. www.alain-du­casse.com Meal for two €660 with­out al­co­hol

Faviken, Swe­den

Prob­a­bly the most re­mote great restau­rant in the world, Faviken is sur­rounded by a 22,000 pri­vate es­tate south of the Arc­tic Cir­cle. The cui­sine is bold and in­ven­tive. Mag­nus Nils­son is a keen hunter, so the game is first-rate and it is only an hour from Trond­heim in Nor­way, which has some of the great­est seafood in the world. He serves beef that has been hung for more than three months and saws open the bone mar­row at the ta­ble. There are only 16 cov­ers, so it is nec­es­sary to stay overnight, which means an all day ex­pe­ri­ence in the summer. www.faviken.com Meal for two €600 with­out al­co­hol

Am­ber, Madarin Ori­en­tal, Hong Kong

Dutch born chef Richard Ekke­bus serves lux­u­ri­ous French-in­spired dishes us­ing the best lo­cal and for­eign in­gre­di­ents that can be flown into Hong Kong at a mo­ment’s no­tice. The most fa­mous dish was sea urchin from Hokkaido with lob­ster jelly and caviar but it has been over­taken by Korean abalone with black pep­per and tomato com­pote. www.am­ber­hongkong.com; Meal for two €450 with­out al­co­hol

Arzak, San Se­bas­tian, Spain

One of the very first avant-garde restau­rants in Spain, Elena Arzak is the fourth gen­er­a­tion to run this “New Basque Cui­sine” tem­ple, which has been at the same lo­ca­tion since 1897. In­spired by French nou­velle cui­sine, the food is es­sen­tially Basque with play­ful touches (ice-cold rasp­berry soup is served in a milk bot­tle with a melon cork). The wine list has a su­perb num­ber of very old Rio­jas at rea­son­able prices. www.arzak.se; Meal for two €420 with­out al­co­hol

Eleven Madi­son Park, New York

Re­cently crowned Num­ber One in the Worlds 50 Best Restau­rant awards, Eleven Madi­son Park ad­heres to its busi­ness name, which is “Make It Nice”. The cui­sine is in­no­va­tive clas­si­cal with terse de­scrip­tions such as cel­ery root in pigs blad­der but it will be braised in truf­fles and chicken re­duc­tion. Chef Daniel Humm and restau­rant man­ager Will Guidara make it an ex­pe­ri­ence to cher­ish. www.eleven­madis­on­park.com; Meal for two €300 with­out al­co­hol

Sushi Saito, Tokyo

This must be the only three star Miche­lin restau­rant lo­cated in a car park but chef Takashi Saito serves the best sushi from this eight-seat restau­rant. Dishes in­clude baby sar­dine rolled in snap­per roe and the in­com­pa­ra­ble raw tuna in the usual se­quence of akami (lean), chutoro (semi-fatty) and otoro (fatty). The safest way to get a reser­va­tion is to book the seven seat pri­vate din­ing room. No web­site +81 3 3589 4412; Meal for two €350 with­out al­co­hol

Oys­ters at Eleven Madi­son Park, New York

Tonelli Francesco credit: Photo

NOUVEAU EATS The sen­sory

din­ing room at Ul­travi­o­let (top); Chef Daniel Humm and Wil­liam Guidara from Eleven Madi­son Park (above)

SPAN­ISH HIGH: Chef Elena Arzak and her fa­ther Chef Juan Mari Arzak (left); A cre­ative dish at Arzak restau­rant

Photo credit: Erik Ols­son

RE­MOTE DIN­ING: The in­te­ri­ors at Faviken in Swe­den

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from India

© PressReader. All rights reserved.