Veg­gie sur­prise from Mal­van

A home chef cu­rates a veg brunch to bust the myth that the state’s coastal fare is only about kombdi and paaplet

Mid Day - - THE GUIDE - SHRADDHA UCHIL 2 4 1 3

MAR­RIED into a Mal­vani fam­ily 16 years ago, the first dish that Pallavi Prabhu savoured wasn’t kombdi vade or paaplet saar but tra­di­tional ras gha­vane, fea­tur­ing the soft, net­ted rice dosa, akin to neer dosa. It was ac­com­pa­nied by ras or co­conut milk sweet­ened with jag­gery and laced with nut­meg and car­damom. “My mother-in-law used home­made rice bat­ter, and pre­pared it on a bhide [tra­di­tional grid­dle], which made gha­vane per­fo­rated and softer,” rec­ol­lects the 45-year-old home chef, who will repli­cate this process on Sun­day to of­fer ras gha­vane as part of a veg­e­tar­ian Mal­vani brunch. It will be hosted at a com­mu­nity ta­ble in the out­door set­ting of the quaint And­heri venue, Lit­tle House. “Most peo­ple be­lieve Mal­vani cui­sine fea­tures only seafood or chicken dishes, but there are plenty of veg­e­tar­ian del­i­ca­cies too. At home, we eat non-veg­e­tar­ian food only three times a week. The idea is to get veg­e­tar­i­ans to rel­ish the cui­sine too,” says Prabhu, whose sis­terin-law, Neeta, will help her with the prepa­ra­tions. “Both of us have taken it upon our­selves to re­tain au­then­tic Mal­vani flavours through recipes passed down to us by our mother-in-law,” she adds. For in­stance, her se­cret spices mix that will go into the mak­ing of sam­bare. This is made with black peas cooked in a co­conut gravy, and is not to be con­fused with the south In­dian samb­har. “She has hand­writ­ten the list of spices that go into the masala. Every year, we grind them to­gether, and store about seven ki­los. We mainly use it in sam­bare, a dish we make on spe­cial oc­ca­sions like Jan­mash­tami.”

Par­tic­i­pants at the brunch will get to savour sam­bare with vade, a fluffy puri-like prepa­ra­tion made us­ing multi-grain flour and flecked with fen­nel and fenu­greek seeds, usu­ally had with chicken gravy dishes. “How­ever, un­like a puri, you can’t use a rolling pin to make vade. You have to pat the dough on a plas­tic sheet and deep-fry it.”

Hold the nori in one hand, while you spoon the sushi rice (recipes are avail­able on­line) onto a side with your other hand. Then, you can add a fill­ing of your choice, be it seafood (salmon, tuna, and scal­lops are pop­u­lar choices), veg­eta­bles (cu­cum­ber, av­o­cado, daikon radish) or mush­rooms.

At the end, you can driz­zle some soy sauce on the roll. Serve fresh.

Make sure you keep all the in­gre­di­ents for your fill­ing handy in lit­tle bowls next to you. To hold the fill­ing, you will need small rec­tan­gu­lar sheets of nori (dry roasted seaweed). Th­ese are avail­able at most su­per­mar­kets that stock im­ported in­gre­di­ents.

Roll the bot­tom left cor­ner up to the mid­dle of the top edge of the nori, and con­tinue rolling till you have an ice cream cone-shaped sushi roll. En­joy pis­ta­chio falafel, solo cheese, smoked chicken and pulled lamb burg­ers in the com­pany of beer-in­fused cock­tails like beer mi­mosa, beergrita and bull’s eye at a month-long fes­ti­val that starts to­day. Each burger comes with a side of house salad or fries.


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