A sec­ond in­ning for an old favourite

Mint ST - - FIRST -

Tres, the pop­u­lar Lodhi colony restau­rant, re­opens in Delhi with some tweaks

Fancy a chicken liver ice cream? At the newly re­opened Tres in Delhi, you can have it with shal­lot tart and wal­nut-ap­ple dress­ing. Con­ceived in 2013 by chefs Ju­lia Car­men Desa, Jatin Mal­lick and Jamsheed Bhote, Tres is a con­tem­po­rary Euro­pean restau­rant fo­cused on nat­u­ral flavours and sea­sonal pro­duce. The Lodhi colony restau­rant in the Cap­i­tal en­joyed a loyal fol­low­ing—and fa­mously long wait­ing time if you ar­rived sans reser­va­tion— be­fore it shut down in early 2017 (ow­ing to rental is­sues). Now the restau­rant is back, in a big­ger space in the same neigh­bour­hood.

“Our ethos is still the same, fo­cused on food and qual­ity bev­er­ages, but we have changed our reper­toire of cook­ing, with more in­ter­na­tional tech­niques and pro­nounced world flavours,” says Mal­lick.

“We have more space here, and we have fo­cused on the bar too.” The menu re­tains old favourites like a home-made salted pork belly, baked ar­ti­choke hearts, crusted sea bass, and the restau­rant’s sig­na­ture quick-tossed king prawn and cala­mari with a radish-cu­cum­ber salad and lime chilli dress­ing.

New ad­di­tions in­clude the liver ice cream. There is a more ex­pan­sive vege­tar­ian menu and desserts, which in­cludes a goat cheese bavarois ac­com­pa­nied by baked beets, wal­nut, ap­ple com­pote and rye chips. The am­bi­ence is as chic with char­coal grey walls off­set with lighter Bocon­cept fur­ni­ture; the staff uni­form has been cre­ated by the French-in­dian fash­ion la­bel Le­coanet-he­mant.

—So­hini Dey

The new Tres in Lodhi Colony; and (be­low), goat cheese bavarois.

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