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• Sew­ing Thread Con­struc­tions and Their Ap­pli­ca­tions

It is a com­mon mis­con­cep­tion to think that a thread is just a thread, and a seam is just a seam. Con­sid­er­ing the huge range of sewn prod­ucts and their ap­pli­ca­tion fields, it is clear that there are dif­fer­ent re­quire­ments set on seams. For ex­am­ple, the seat seams of denim trousers must have a dif­fer­ent level of sta­bil­ity than the seams of an airbag.

The crit­i­cal ques­tions are how to de­ter­mine which sew­ing thread is the right choice for a cer­tain ap­pli­ca­tion and how to dis­tin­guish high-qual­ity sew­ing threads from un­branded prod­ucts.

Two de­ter­min­ing fac­tors con­cern­ing thread us­age are raw ma­te­rial and con­struc­tion type. Chem­i­cal fi­bres, such as polyester and polyamides gen­er­ally fea­ture higher ten­sile strength, elon­ga­tion and abra­sion re­sis­tance com­pared to sew­ing threads made from nat­u­ral fi­bres, like cot­ton.

If we com­pare polyamide and polyester, polyamide threads fea­ture higher ten­sile strength, elon­ga­tion and abra­sion re­sis­tance, whereas polyester threads have ad­van­tages in terms of colour and light fast­ness.

The type of con­struc­tion is an­other cru­cial fea­ture con­cern­ing thread us­age. The type of con­struc­tion is de­fined by the dif­fer­ent pro­cess­ing meth­ods and fil­a­ments (schappe or cut sta­ple spuns, smooth con­tin­u­ous fil­a­ments, monofil­a­ments, tex­turised fil­a­ments, et al.) and how they are com­bined.

For ex­am­ple, the sin­gle yarns of a spun sew­ing thread only con­sist of sta­ple fi­bres, whereas the sin­gle yarns of a core spun thread con­sist of a con­tin­u­ous fil­a­ment core (ap­prox. 65%) and a sta­ple fi­bre cover (ap­prox. 35%). On shoes and leather, it is com­mon to high­light the high-qual­ity leather sur­face with smooth and shiny con­tin­u­ous fil­a­ment thread con­struc­tions, e.g., AMANN’S Ser­afil. On the other hand, for ap­parel, mainly spun or core spun thread con­struc­tions are used, as they of­fer a tex­tile char­ac­ter which suits wo­ven or knit­ted fab­rics best.

Core spun threads have a high break­ing strength and abra­sion re­sis­tance. Due to this fact, they can be pro­cessed at high sew­ing speeds (also on au­to­matic sew­ing ma­chines) and help to in­crease the life span of the fi­nal gar­ment dur­ing fu­ture use. As an eco­nomic al­ter­na­tive, a spun con­struc­tion can be the right choice, e.g., Amann’s Uni­ver­sal.

In the ap­parel in­dus­try, be­sides sew­ing threads made from syn­thetic fi­bres, cot­ton threads still play a big role, as they can be dyed. In the big mar­ket of gar­ment dye­ing, threads made from cot­ton fi­bres are used to en­sure same­ness of colour in fab­ric and thread.

For each pur­pose and ap­pli­ca­tion, there is a right sew­ing thread. Hence, it is highly rec­om­mended to first an­a­lyse which raw ma­te­rial and con­struc­tion type brings along the fea­ture needed. This in­for­ma­tion will def­i­nitely help in reach­ing a qual­i­fied de­ci­sion on which sew­ing thread to ap­ply.

Spun Core Spun Con­tin­u­ous_­fil­a­ment AMANN_SPUN Aman­n_­core_spun Aman­n_­con­tin­u­ous_ fil­a­ment

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