• Sewing Thread Constructions and Their Applications
It is a common misconception to think that a thread is just a thread, and a seam is just a seam. Considering the huge range of sewn products and their application fields, it is clear that there are different requirements set on seams. For example, the seat seams of denim trousers must have a different level of stability than the seams of an airbag.
The critical questions are how to determine which sewing thread is the right choice for a certain application and how to distinguish high-quality sewing threads from unbranded products.
Two determining factors concerning thread usage are raw material and construction type. Chemical fibres, such as polyester and polyamides generally feature higher tensile strength, elongation and abrasion resistance compared to sewing threads made from natural fibres, like cotton.
If we compare polyamide and polyester, polyamide threads feature higher tensile strength, elongation and abrasion resistance, whereas polyester threads have advantages in terms of colour and light fastness.
The type of construction is another crucial feature concerning thread usage. The type of construction is defined by the different processing methods and filaments (schappe or cut staple spuns, smooth continuous filaments, monofilaments, texturised filaments, et al.) and how they are combined.
For example, the single yarns of a spun sewing thread only consist of staple fibres, whereas the single yarns of a core spun thread consist of a continuous filament core (approx. 65%) and a staple fibre cover (approx. 35%). On shoes and leather, it is common to highlight the high-quality leather surface with smooth and shiny continuous filament thread constructions, e.g., AMANN’S Serafil. On the other hand, for apparel, mainly spun or core spun thread constructions are used, as they offer a textile character which suits woven or knitted fabrics best.
Core spun threads have a high breaking strength and abrasion resistance. Due to this fact, they can be processed at high sewing speeds (also on automatic sewing machines) and help to increase the life span of the final garment during future use. As an economic alternative, a spun construction can be the right choice, e.g., Amann’s Universal.
In the apparel industry, besides sewing threads made from synthetic fibres, cotton threads still play a big role, as they can be dyed. In the big market of garment dyeing, threads made from cotton fibres are used to ensure sameness of colour in fabric and thread.
For each purpose and application, there is a right sewing thread. Hence, it is highly recommended to first analyse which raw material and construction type brings along the feature needed. This information will definitely help in reaching a qualified decision on which sewing thread to apply.
Spun Core Spun Continuous_filament AMANN_SPUN Amann_core_spun Amann_continuous_ filament