Me­gasew MJ101TX SIX IM­PRES­SIVE TECH­NOLO­GIES IN FLAT SEAMING Pe­ga­sus FS-700P

Stitch World - - PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY -

The process of join­ing two or more soft yet bulky fab­rics to­gether us­ing over­lap seam or butt seam is im­por­tant to re­duce the thick­ness of seam. While sewing the fabric, edge/s are trimmed pro­por­tion­ately to give an aes­thetic ap­pear­ance in face as well as on the back. This seam is called flat seaming which is widely be­ing used in the high-end man­u­fac­tur­ing of knitwear prod­ucts such as ath­letic ap­par­els, un­der­wear, lingerie and briefs. Though there are a num­ber of sewing ma­chines avail­able in the mar­ket for flat seaming, it is never easy to opt for any of them un­til one knows what ben­e­fits these ma­chines can pro­vide to any­body. Team StitchWorld delves deep into these avail­able op­tions and finds out the six best flat seam­ers which have al­ready made their own space in the global ap­parel industry.

Me­gasew, a Tai­wan-based sewing ma­chine provider, has al­ready beck­oned the Globe strongly with its fourth gen­er­a­tion MJ101TX which is a 4- nee­dle 6-thread feed off the arm ul­tra­high-speed flat seaming ma­chine. Suit­able for knitwear stitch­ing, the main fea­ture of MJ101TX is its unique de­sign which has not seen any changes for last 50 years since the in­cep­tion of its first gen­er­a­tion. Today, ma­chine op­er­a­tors in the gar­ment industry have to fo­cus on in­creas­ing nee­dle time in order to en­hance ef­fi­ciency. Hence, it is a man­date for them to main­tain er­gonomic pos­ture through­out the day. Us­ing MJ101TX ma­chine, the op­er­a­tors need not force their bod­ies for­ward and bend their head to­wards left to view stitch­ing area. The unique de­sign of the ma­chine saves op­er­a­tors from the heat­ing and vi­bra­tion that the ma­chine pro­duces while per­form­ing op­er­a­tion. Ac­cord­ing to Me­gasew, sewing view of the op­er­a­tor is wide enough in this ma­chine whereas, other brands who are pro­vid­ing same ma­chines, have very nar­row sewing view which trou­bles the op­er­a­tors. Fur­ther­more, the ad­just­ment of coarse stitch or fine stitch has be­come eas­ier as with MJ101TX, the mech­a­nism of open­ing screw on the left side and mov­ing Feed Rocker Link in the nor­mal flat seaming ma­chines has now been re- en­gi­neered by Me­gasew. The mech­a­nism is now in­cor­po­rated on the right side of MJ101TX and, with this change, the stitch ad­just­ment has be­come more vis­i­ble and vi­able. Adding to this, Me­gasew boasts that the ‘ Triple Dif­fer­en­tial Ra­tio Feed­ing’ mech­a­nism in the ma­chine can over­come the chal­lenges tak­ing place dur­ing mul­ti­ple stretch­ing of dif­fer­ent kinds of fab­rics. The com­pany claims that its com­peti­tors just have sin­gle dif­fer­en­tial in their flat seam­ers while, with MJ101TX, the denser seam with more flex­i­bil­ity can be achieved as it’s eas­ier to ad­just the SPI. Pe­ga­sus is a lead­ing Ja­panese man­u­fac­turer of in­dus­trial sewing ma­chines. The brand’s of­fer­ing FS-700P se­ries is ex­ten­sively used across the globe for sewing knit gar­ments. FS-700P se­ries is a 4- nee­dle, feed- off-the-arm, in­ter­lock­stitch ma­chine for flat seaming which is the world’s first

Adding to this, Me­gasew boasts that the ‘ Triple Dif­fer­en­tial Ra­tio Feed­ing’ mech­a­nism in the ma­chine can over­come the chal­lenges tak­ing place dur­ing mul­ti­ple stretch­ing of dif­fer­ent kinds of fab­rics. The com­pany claims that its com­peti­tors just have sin­gle dif­fer­en­tial in their flat seam­ers while, with MJ101TX, the denser seam with more flex­i­bil­ity can be achieved as it’s eas­ier to ad­just the SPI.

ma­chine bed equipped with a com­pletely en­closed nee­dledrive mech­a­nism. The ma­chine comes equipped with ‘Oil Bar­rier’ tech­nol­ogy which is in­tended to pre­vent oil leak­age and oil splashes to the var­i­ous ar­eas around the ma­chine with the help of at­tached oil seal. In ad­di­tion, this se­ries re­sponds to dif­fi­cult-to-sew fabric and/or new highly stretch­able ma­te­rial, such as swim­suits with no yarn dis­tor­tion on the fabric. Fur­ther, the uniquely de­signed presser foot has the groove on its un­der­side which helps the op­er­a­tor to sim­plify the sewing on the cross seam sec­tions of the over­lapped ar­eas of the gar­ment. There­fore, the over­lapped ar­eas in tape bind­ing and lace at­tach­ing op­er­a­tions on the fabric, such as briefs and panties, are flatly and beau­ti­fully fin­ished, so the wearer feels gen­tle on the skin without any un­com­fort­able touch. Apart from the above men­tioned fea­tures, Pe­ga­sus claims to have cer­tain other sig­nif­i­cant fea­tures which in­crease the qual­ity of the sewn prod­ucts. Float­ing Foot Mech­a­nism is one of them us­ing which fine ad­just­ments for the clear­ance be­tween the presser foot and the nee­dle plate can be made and that too ef­fort­lessly with the ad­just­ment nut set ac­cord­ing to the fabric thick­ness. This mech­a­nism elim­i­nates seam jam­ming and fabric dam­age usu­ally caused due to the feed dog, there­fore, high sewing qual­ity in min­i­mum of time can be achieved. Ja­panese pi­o­neer Yam­ato is spe­cial­ist in pro­vid­ing sewing tech­nol­ogy for knitwear. The com­pany’s FD- 62DRY is an ad­vanced 4- nee­dle 6-thread feed off the arm, dou­ble- edge trim­ming flat seamer sewing ma­chine. Ac­cord­ing to Yam­ato, the ma­chine is de­vel­oped to ob­tain op­ti­mal over­lap­ping of knit fab­rics spe­cially in ath­letic ap­par­els even when the join­ing fab­rics are of con­trast colours. Ad­di­tion­ally pucker-free flat fin­ish can be achieved for long dis­tance clos­ing seams along the length­wise grain of fabric. Mar­keted as a ma­chine stud­ded with ‘Magic DRY’ tech­nol­ogy, FD62DRY has a com­pletely sealed struc­ture with no open­ing above the sewing area which blocks oil leak­age. Spe­cial seals have been in­stalled on each mov­ing shaft and bar to iso­late lu­bri­cated in­ter­nal mech­a­nism from dusty outer en­vi­ron­ment. The end of shafts are also cov­ered so that there are no chances of oil leak­age by any means which help ob­tain oil-stain free sewn gar­ments which fur­ther re­sult in re­duced down­time, in­creased dura­bil­ity and im­proved flat­lock seam. Fur­ther, er­gonomic stan­dards have also been given im­por­tance for the de­sign of the ma­chine as sup­port­ing block has been equipped be­tween the ma­chine and the op­er­a­tor that of­fers wider work­ing space for easy fabric con­trol, es­pe­cially on large-scale man­u­fac­tur­ing where one op­er­a­tion is be­ing re­peated in the N num­ber of gar­ments. An­other tech­ni­cal fea­ture of the ma­chine is that it au­to­mat­i­cally counts the stitches and cuts the thread at the end of sewing with the help of ‘ Photo- cell’ sen­sor named AS. This cell counts the pro­grammable stitches and starts/stops sewing au­to­mat­i­cally when re­quired, there­fore, min­imis­ing thread con­sump­tion. Juki needs no in­tro­duc­tion as the com­pany is a prom­i­nent and es­tab­lished name in sewing tech­nol­ogy. With a vast prod­uct port­fo­lio, Juki caters to al­most ev­ery seg­ment of the gar­ment industry and its MF-3620 Se­ries is a 4- nee­dle 6-thread feed off the arm flat seaming ma­chine. The ma­chine con­sumes only about half the power of the con­ven­tional mod­els com­pared to the model equipped with the clutch mo­tor as per Juki’s claim. A mount­ing base for the di­rect­drive type ma­chine head is pro­vided as stan­dard with a hand pul­ley. Var­i­ous sub­class mod­els have also been added; one model is best-suited to the sewing of hard-to-sew

In Yam­ato FD62DRY, er­gonomic stan­dards have also been given im­por­tance for the de­sign of the ma­chine as sup­port­ing block has been equipped be­tween the ma­chine and the op­er­a­tor that of­fers wider work­ing space for easy fabric con­trol, es­pe­cially on large-scale man­u­fac­tur­ing where one op­er­a­tion is be­ing re­peated in the N num­ber of gar­ments.

ma­te­ri­als with multi- di­rec­tional elas­tic­ity such as swimwear, while an­other model is for the pre­ven­tion of un­even feed of the tape-at­tached parts of boxer briefs and run­ning shirts to pro­vide more con­sis­tent seam qual­ity. In ad­di­tion, the mul­ti­pur­pose type sub­class model which is able to perform both one-side cutting and both-sides cutting has also been added, in­tended for sewing plants en­gaged in the sewing of di­ver­si­fied prod­ucts. Just like all other flat seamer, Juki’s ma­chine too has the oil- leak­age pre­ven­tion pro­vi­sion which is, by far, con­sid­ered to be the ut­most need of a sewing ma­chine. The frame of MF-3620 is shielded and is equipped with mech­a­nisms for mi­cro- quan­tity lu­bri­ca­tion and Juki’s unique forced oil cir­cu­la­tion. The thread take- up mech­a­nism ar­ranged on the out­side of the arm pre­vents the en­try of oil splashes and dust. The MF-3620 is also con­fig­ured with oil-thrower mech­a­nism to pro­tect the looper sec­tion from oil infiltration. Ex­cess oil is speed­ily re­claimed via the new oil groove. Fur­ther­more, the presser foot of this flat seamer is equipped with a cloth cutting mech­a­nism. This presser foot en­sures a smoother feed of the fabric and helps re­duce the load ap­plied to it.

Siruba D007R

Tai­wanese sewing ma­chin­ery fron­trun­ner Siruba has ma­tured to cater to all re­quire­ments of the sewing room, from over­locks and in­ter­locks to mul­ti­ple nee­dles and lock­stitch ma­chines. Flat seaming tech­nol­ogy is also some­thing the com­pany can claim to have a strong hold in as its D007R se­ries of ma­chine has al­ready gained a lot of at­ten­tion from the industry. D007R se­ries in­clude var­i­ous sub­classes of 4- nee­dles 6-thread feed off the arm flat seaming ma­chines which are use­ful in over­lap­ping dif­fer­ent fab­rics used in ath­letic ap­par­els, kidswear, and un­der­gar­ments. Ac­cord­ing to Siruba, com­pact servo- mo­tor di­rectly drives the main shaft with spe­cial con­nec­tor de­sign. It fea­tures less weight, ag­ile drive, anti-vi­bra­tion, low noise, pow­er­ful out­put and pre­cise seaming. The ma­chine comes with a patented elec­tric presser foot lifter mech­a­nism due to which the solenoid is con­cealed in hold­ing base, sav­ing pneu­matic vol­ume and ac­ces­sories. More­over, min­imi­sa­tion in cylin­der cir­cum­fer­ence (as min­i­mum as 150 mm) at the nee­dles al­lows for sewing small tubu­lar work such as sleeves’ seaming of kidswear with high ef­fi­ciency, without break­ing op­er­a­tion at curves. This helps in sav­ing time and labour and pro­motes higher pro­duc­tiv­ity. Siruba’s ‘ Forced Lu­bri­ca­tion’ and ‘ Forced Oil Col­lect’ sys­tems with fil­ter elim­i­nate oil stains in the sewn gar­ments as these sys­tems block ev­ery pos­si­ble oil leak­age around the sewing area.

Kan­sai Spe­cial NFS Se­ries

Mo­ri­moto Mfg. Co., Ltd., a Ja­panese pi­o­neer in sewing tech­nol­ogy, is a key con­trib­u­tor in up­lift­ing the knit­ting industry with its cost- com­pet­i­tive sewing so­lu­tions un­der the brand Kan­sai Spe­cial. Its NFS se­ries is 4- nee­dle, 6 thread, feed- offthe-arm, top and bot­tom cover stitch ma­chine which is suit­able for over­lap­ping of high qual­ity knitwear fab­rics in prod­ucts such as un­der­wear, ac­tive sportswear, and swimwear. In this se­ries, sin­gle side cut or both side cut are pos­si­ble and this sys­tem guar­an­tees, ac­cord­ing to Kan­sai, flat and neat fin­ish for op­ti­mum tex­ture of the seam so that the wearer does not get rubbed on the skin due to un­even or rough seam. The knife of the presser foot in the se­ries comes in two vari­a­tions: LM and MH. MH’s knife is much more wider than LM’s knife; so it is eas­ier to cut the heavy fab­rics on the ma­chine hav­ing MH type of presser foot. Fur­ther, a cushion pad has also been added so that the op­er­a­tor can stay free from the ma­chine vi­bra­tions and oil stains. In a ma­jor de­vel­op­ment, the ma­jor­ity of the ma­chine parts of Kan­sai are DLC (Di­a­mond Like Car­bon) coated. This coat­ing pre­vents ma­chine parts from break­age and wear & tear. DLC is claimed to be done only in the Kan­sai ma­chines mak­ing them bet­ter than the other avail­able brands in the mar­ket, ac­cord­ing to the com­pany.

In a ma­jor de­vel­op­ment, the ma­jor­ity of the ma­chine parts of Kan­sai are DLC (Di­a­mond Like Car­bon) coated. This coat­ing pre­vents ma­chine parts from break­age and wear & tear. DLC is claimed to be done only in the Kan­sai ma­chines mak­ing them bet­ter than the other avail­able brands in the mar­ket, ac­cord­ing to the com­pany.

Me­gasew MJ101TX

Pe­ga­sus FS-700P

Yam­ato FD62DRY

Juki MF-3620

Kan­sai Spe­cial NFS Se­ries

Siruba D007R

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