Megasew MJ101TX SIX IMPRESSIVE TECHNOLOGIES IN FLAT SEAMING Pegasus FS-700P
The process of joining two or more soft yet bulky fabrics together using overlap seam or butt seam is important to reduce the thickness of seam. While sewing the fabric, edge/s are trimmed proportionately to give an aesthetic appearance in face as well as on the back. This seam is called flat seaming which is widely being used in the high-end manufacturing of knitwear products such as athletic apparels, underwear, lingerie and briefs. Though there are a number of sewing machines available in the market for flat seaming, it is never easy to opt for any of them until one knows what benefits these machines can provide to anybody. Team StitchWorld delves deep into these available options and finds out the six best flat seamers which have already made their own space in the global apparel industry.
Megasew, a Taiwan-based sewing machine provider, has already beckoned the Globe strongly with its fourth generation MJ101TX which is a 4- needle 6-thread feed off the arm ultrahigh-speed flat seaming machine. Suitable for knitwear stitching, the main feature of MJ101TX is its unique design which has not seen any changes for last 50 years since the inception of its first generation. Today, machine operators in the garment industry have to focus on increasing needle time in order to enhance efficiency. Hence, it is a mandate for them to maintain ergonomic posture throughout the day. Using MJ101TX machine, the operators need not force their bodies forward and bend their head towards left to view stitching area. The unique design of the machine saves operators from the heating and vibration that the machine produces while performing operation. According to Megasew, sewing view of the operator is wide enough in this machine whereas, other brands who are providing same machines, have very narrow sewing view which troubles the operators. Furthermore, the adjustment of coarse stitch or fine stitch has become easier as with MJ101TX, the mechanism of opening screw on the left side and moving Feed Rocker Link in the normal flat seaming machines has now been re- engineered by Megasew. The mechanism is now incorporated on the right side of MJ101TX and, with this change, the stitch adjustment has become more visible and viable. Adding to this, Megasew boasts that the ‘ Triple Differential Ratio Feeding’ mechanism in the machine can overcome the challenges taking place during multiple stretching of different kinds of fabrics. The company claims that its competitors just have single differential in their flat seamers while, with MJ101TX, the denser seam with more flexibility can be achieved as it’s easier to adjust the SPI. Pegasus is a leading Japanese manufacturer of industrial sewing machines. The brand’s offering FS-700P series is extensively used across the globe for sewing knit garments. FS-700P series is a 4- needle, feed- off-the-arm, interlockstitch machine for flat seaming which is the world’s first
Adding to this, Megasew boasts that the ‘ Triple Differential Ratio Feeding’ mechanism in the machine can overcome the challenges taking place during multiple stretching of different kinds of fabrics. The company claims that its competitors just have single differential in their flat seamers while, with MJ101TX, the denser seam with more flexibility can be achieved as it’s easier to adjust the SPI.
machine bed equipped with a completely enclosed needledrive mechanism. The machine comes equipped with ‘Oil Barrier’ technology which is intended to prevent oil leakage and oil splashes to the various areas around the machine with the help of attached oil seal. In addition, this series responds to difficult-to-sew fabric and/or new highly stretchable material, such as swimsuits with no yarn distortion on the fabric. Further, the uniquely designed presser foot has the groove on its underside which helps the operator to simplify the sewing on the cross seam sections of the overlapped areas of the garment. Therefore, the overlapped areas in tape binding and lace attaching operations on the fabric, such as briefs and panties, are flatly and beautifully finished, so the wearer feels gentle on the skin without any uncomfortable touch. Apart from the above mentioned features, Pegasus claims to have certain other significant features which increase the quality of the sewn products. Floating Foot Mechanism is one of them using which fine adjustments for the clearance between the presser foot and the needle plate can be made and that too effortlessly with the adjustment nut set according to the fabric thickness. This mechanism eliminates seam jamming and fabric damage usually caused due to the feed dog, therefore, high sewing quality in minimum of time can be achieved. Japanese pioneer Yamato is specialist in providing sewing technology for knitwear. The company’s FD- 62DRY is an advanced 4- needle 6-thread feed off the arm, double- edge trimming flat seamer sewing machine. According to Yamato, the machine is developed to obtain optimal overlapping of knit fabrics specially in athletic apparels even when the joining fabrics are of contrast colours. Additionally pucker-free flat finish can be achieved for long distance closing seams along the lengthwise grain of fabric. Marketed as a machine studded with ‘Magic DRY’ technology, FD62DRY has a completely sealed structure with no opening above the sewing area which blocks oil leakage. Special seals have been installed on each moving shaft and bar to isolate lubricated internal mechanism from dusty outer environment. The end of shafts are also covered so that there are no chances of oil leakage by any means which help obtain oil-stain free sewn garments which further result in reduced downtime, increased durability and improved flatlock seam. Further, ergonomic standards have also been given importance for the design of the machine as supporting block has been equipped between the machine and the operator that offers wider working space for easy fabric control, especially on large-scale manufacturing where one operation is being repeated in the N number of garments. Another technical feature of the machine is that it automatically counts the stitches and cuts the thread at the end of sewing with the help of ‘ Photo- cell’ sensor named AS. This cell counts the programmable stitches and starts/stops sewing automatically when required, therefore, minimising thread consumption. Juki needs no introduction as the company is a prominent and established name in sewing technology. With a vast product portfolio, Juki caters to almost every segment of the garment industry and its MF-3620 Series is a 4- needle 6-thread feed off the arm flat seaming machine. The machine consumes only about half the power of the conventional models compared to the model equipped with the clutch motor as per Juki’s claim. A mounting base for the directdrive type machine head is provided as standard with a hand pulley. Various subclass models have also been added; one model is best-suited to the sewing of hard-to-sew
In Yamato FD62DRY, ergonomic standards have also been given importance for the design of the machine as supporting block has been equipped between the machine and the operator that offers wider working space for easy fabric control, especially on large-scale manufacturing where one operation is being repeated in the N number of garments.
materials with multi- directional elasticity such as swimwear, while another model is for the prevention of uneven feed of the tape-attached parts of boxer briefs and running shirts to provide more consistent seam quality. In addition, the multipurpose type subclass model which is able to perform both one-side cutting and both-sides cutting has also been added, intended for sewing plants engaged in the sewing of diversified products. Just like all other flat seamer, Juki’s machine too has the oil- leakage prevention provision which is, by far, considered to be the utmost need of a sewing machine. The frame of MF-3620 is shielded and is equipped with mechanisms for micro- quantity lubrication and Juki’s unique forced oil circulation. The thread take- up mechanism arranged on the outside of the arm prevents the entry of oil splashes and dust. The MF-3620 is also configured with oil-thrower mechanism to protect the looper section from oil infiltration. Excess oil is speedily reclaimed via the new oil groove. Furthermore, the presser foot of this flat seamer is equipped with a cloth cutting mechanism. This presser foot ensures a smoother feed of the fabric and helps reduce the load applied to it.
Taiwanese sewing machinery frontrunner Siruba has matured to cater to all requirements of the sewing room, from overlocks and interlocks to multiple needles and lockstitch machines. Flat seaming technology is also something the company can claim to have a strong hold in as its D007R series of machine has already gained a lot of attention from the industry. D007R series include various subclasses of 4- needles 6-thread feed off the arm flat seaming machines which are useful in overlapping different fabrics used in athletic apparels, kidswear, and undergarments. According to Siruba, compact servo- motor directly drives the main shaft with special connector design. It features less weight, agile drive, anti-vibration, low noise, powerful output and precise seaming. The machine comes with a patented electric presser foot lifter mechanism due to which the solenoid is concealed in holding base, saving pneumatic volume and accessories. Moreover, minimisation in cylinder circumference (as minimum as 150 mm) at the needles allows for sewing small tubular work such as sleeves’ seaming of kidswear with high efficiency, without breaking operation at curves. This helps in saving time and labour and promotes higher productivity. Siruba’s ‘ Forced Lubrication’ and ‘ Forced Oil Collect’ systems with filter eliminate oil stains in the sewn garments as these systems block every possible oil leakage around the sewing area.
Kansai Special NFS Series
Morimoto Mfg. Co., Ltd., a Japanese pioneer in sewing technology, is a key contributor in uplifting the knitting industry with its cost- competitive sewing solutions under the brand Kansai Special. Its NFS series is 4- needle, 6 thread, feed- offthe-arm, top and bottom cover stitch machine which is suitable for overlapping of high quality knitwear fabrics in products such as underwear, active sportswear, and swimwear. In this series, single side cut or both side cut are possible and this system guarantees, according to Kansai, flat and neat finish for optimum texture of the seam so that the wearer does not get rubbed on the skin due to uneven or rough seam. The knife of the presser foot in the series comes in two variations: LM and MH. MH’s knife is much more wider than LM’s knife; so it is easier to cut the heavy fabrics on the machine having MH type of presser foot. Further, a cushion pad has also been added so that the operator can stay free from the machine vibrations and oil stains. In a major development, the majority of the machine parts of Kansai are DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coated. This coating prevents machine parts from breakage and wear & tear. DLC is claimed to be done only in the Kansai machines making them better than the other available brands in the market, according to the company.
In a major development, the majority of the machine parts of Kansai are DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coated. This coating prevents machine parts from breakage and wear & tear. DLC is claimed to be done only in the Kansai machines making them better than the other available brands in the market, according to the company.
Kansai Special NFS Series