“un­like wiTh pre­Cious meT­als, The re­la­Tion­ship be­Tween a di­a­mond’s CaraT weighT and iTs priCe isn’T as sTraighT­for­ward”

DA MAN - Caliber - - CRAFTS -

with di­a­monds packed closely to­gether. Nat­u­rally, the com­po­nents in ques­tion are then pol­ished to smooth away the marks of drilling or shav­ing that’s been done.

The ac­tual set­ting method will vary from de­sign to de­sign, but some of the more com­mon ones in­clude: Prong set­tings (where metal prongs or “claws” hold in­di­vid­ual stones in place), grain or mill­grain set­tings (where small beads formed from small shav­ing of metal se­cure the stone), closed (where a cir­cle of metal—quite like a bezel—grips the stone), chan­nel (where stones are lined be­tween metal “rails” and held in a groove) and the in­vis­i­ble set­ting (which was patented by Cartier and which cre­ates the ap­pear­ance of mul­ti­ple stones hold­ing each other in place).

a man’s besT friend?

Ob­vi­ously, there has never been a short­age of women’s watches with di­a­monds. A par­tic­u­larly grand ex­am­ple of this would be Aude­mars Piguet’s Di­a­mond Out­rage, which was pre­ceded by the Di­a­mond Fury in 2016 and the Di­a­mond Punk in 2015. Th­ese (and oth­ers which you can see in the Women’s Watches sec­tion of this is­sue as well as pre­vi­ous edi­tions of DA MAN Cal­iber) tend to lean more to­wards rather than while they are beau­ti­ful watches, they can eas­ily pass for be­ing high­end jew­elry.

The ma­jor­ity of men’s watches with di­a­monds, how­ever, tend to be a bit more sub­tle. Or it used to be. From the same brand that gave us the Di­a­mond Out­rage also comes the Royal Oak Chrono­graph Di­a­mond Pave White Gold Men’s Watch. The case, bezel, dial and even bracelet are paved with di­a­monds, plus sev­eral sap­phires for the hour in­dexes. H. Moser & Cie’s Swiss Alp Watch on the Rocks is an­other ex­am­ple of how a watch with an ex­tra help­ing of di­a­monds.

For gents with more con­ser­va­tive tastes, Patek Philippe’s Nau­tilus Ref. 5713 with its di­a­mond-stud­ded bezel could be a great op­tion. Of course, the brand also has many mod­els fea­tur­ing di­a­monds in a more sub­tle con­fig­u­ra­tion, usu­ally on the hour mark­ers. Cartier, un­sur­pris­ingly, has quite a lineup of di­a­mond watches for men. Th­ese range from the still rather sub­tle Ronde Louis Cartier watch, the eye-catch­ing Clé de Cartier 35 mm fly­ing tour­bil­lon watch up to the un­der­stated but im­pact­ful High Jew­elry Watch.

But even sporty watches can come with pres­ti­gious bling. Take Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sap­phire Baguettes watch, for in­stance, which pairs di­a­monds and a sap­phire crys­tal case. TAG Heuer, mean­while, has the Car­rera Heuer-02T Baguette-Cut Di­a­mond. There is even a vari­ant of the Mod­u­lar 45 con­nected watch that comes with a di­a­mond-en­crusted bezel, and is ap­par­ently the time­piece of choice for brand am­bas­sador and “art provo­ca­teur” Alec Monopoly.

So, to con­clude, if you do have a taste for pre­cious stones, es­pe­cially di­a­monds, there is a watch out there for you. And rest as­sured that the stones added to your time­piece of choice goes much fur­ther than just “ex­tra bling.”

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