DA MAN - Caliber - - BRAND STORY -

Back in 1996, Patek Philippe in­tro­duced an en­tirely new com­pli­ca­tion to the world of horol­ogy: the an­nual cal­en­dar. This patented cal­en­dar mech­a­nism needs to be ad­justed only once a year, at the end of Fe­bru­ary, mak­ing it in­fin­itely more use­ful than stan­dard ones, but also much more ac­ces­si­ble than per­pet­ual cal­en­dars. For 2018, this in­no­va­tion is well rep­re­sented once again by Patek Philippe’s Ref­er­ence 5205G.

The Ref­er­ence 5205 An­nual Cal­en­dar model was ini­tially re­leased back in 2010 with a white gold case. A rose gold ver­sion was then in­tro­duced in 2013. At Basel­world this the white gold watch was rein­tro­duced with a new two-tone sun­burst dial that grad­u­ates sub­tly from blue to black. The con­trast be­tween the del­i­cate shimmer of the white gold case and the darker shade of the dial is par­tic­u­larly eye-catch­ing. The watch shows the day, date and month in an iconic three aper­ture con­fig­u­ra­tion that arcs from the 10 to 2 o’clock po­si­tion.

Round­ing up the watch’s de­sign pack­age is a host of smaller, but no less mag­nif­i­cent, aes­thetic touches, from the slightly con­cave bezel and the del­i­cately pierced strap lugs (which have al­ways been a spe­cial facet of the Ref­er­ence 5205’s case) to the shiny black hand-stitched al­li­ga­tor leather strap and the lav­ish fin­ish­ing of the move­ment vis­i­ble through the sap­phire crys­tal case­back.

At the heart of this watch is the self­wind­ing Cal­iber 324 S QA LU 24H/206 move­ment fea­tur­ing the afore­men­tioned an­nual cal­en­dar mech­a­nism. In essence, an an­nual cal­en­dar “knows” which months are 30 days long and which ones run to 31 days. The sole ex­cep­tion is Fe­bru­ary, hence the need for an an­nual cor­rec­tion. The sim­ple fact that this is an en­tirely new horo­log­i­cal com­pli­ca­tion speaks vol­umes of Patek Philippe’s drive for in­no­va­tion. An­other me­chan­i­cal mar­vel of the Ref­er­ence 5205G is its moon­phase dis­play, which will only show a full day’s de­vi­a­tion from the ac­tual lu­nar cy­cle af­ter 122 years.

Patek Philippe an­nual cal­en­dar ref. 5205g-013

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