Move, Move, Move

DA MAN - Style - - Contents -

he fash­ion weeks hap­pen­ing early this year took many by sur­prise. From Burberry to Paul Smith to Tom Ford, all seemed to be gear­ing up for big changes and ma­jor shifts in their tempo: less fash­ion lines, sea­son-less shows and faster de­liv­ery. To put it sim­ply, high fash­ion is gear­ing up for the fast lane. As all of these will com­mence prob­a­bly six months from now, what’s left for us to look for­ward to?

For one, we have this sea­son’s most re­peated mantra: “Ath­leisure,” a hy­brid be­tween ac­tive-wear—things you wear to the gym—and trendy cloth­ing. More than ever, dy­nam­ics, prac­ti­cal­ity and func­tion seemed to take pri­or­ity. And this, in turn, is a fad that is much more preva­lent in menswear in­stead of wom­enswear. The same kind of dy­nam­ics also took shape within the move­ment of de­sign­ers. Brendan Mu­lane left Bri­oni, as did Ste­fano Pi­lati from Ermenegildo Zegna and even Alessan­dro Sar­tori from Ber­luti—just a cou­ple of weeks af­ter our chat for this is­sue! Fash­ion is known to be ephemeral, ever chang­ing. But in men’s fash­ion? Re­ally? This, in a glass half-full per­spec­tive, brings un­prece­dented at­ten­tion to menswear; how it’s fi­nally pro­gress­ing and evolv­ing at a faster pace. Be it the adop­tion of fem­i­nin­ity as in the case of Gucci and J.W. An­der­son, or ori­en­tal­ism in Louis Vuit­ton and Dolce & Gab­bana, big changes are tak­ing place this very in­stance. Men’s fash­ion is not just alive and kick­ing; it’s swell and ex­cit­ing.

To trans­late that ex­cite­ment to this is­sue, we drew in­spi­ra­tion from Wes An­der­son’s movies, whose larger-than-life char­ac­ters were the “Ath­leisure” cham­pi­ons (think of the Te­nen­baums fam­ily). It is, I have to say, quite a change from the previous is­sue of DA­MAN Style. But, hey, that kind of a change is what fash­ion is now all about, right?

Real cham­pi­ons in the male model­ing world are also well rep­re­sented in this is­sue. Two top-earn­ing male mod­els, Lucky Blue Smith and Ja­son Mor­gan, grace the cov­ers. On top of that, we have the un­de­feat­able Tony Ward, who has gone through thick and thin in model­ing for over three decades! Karl Lager­feld’s fa­vorite male model, Brad Kroenig, is in, and, last but not least, Paolo An­chisi rounds up our lineup of per­son­al­i­ties. De­spite the break­neck speed of fash­ion busi­ness, these names are here to stay.

ronald Liem, pub­lisher/edi­tor-in-Chief

Ja­son Mor­gan

Lucky Blue Smith

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