Fun House

Fash­ion is Fun, but only a Few maisons would take that sen­ti­ment to heart as much as Fendi. the brand Founder's grand­daugh­ter pro­Fesses her ad­mi­ra­tion For past artists and in­tel­lects

DA MAN - Style - - Designer -

Fash­ion is a fickle sub­ject. Trends come and go; a brands’ sig­na­ture can change sea­son af­ter sea­son. Of course, con­stant rein­ven­tion is ex­actly what makes up the back­bone of the in­dus­try. This is cer­tainly noth­ing new for Sil­via Venturini Fendi, grand­daugh­ter of Ed­uardo and Adele Fendi, founders of the famed Ital­ian house known for furs and, more re­cently, “it” bags. As a mat­ter of fact, it was Sil­via who came up with prob­a­bly the most rec­og­niz­able “it” bag for ladies in the late 1990s and 2000s: the Baguette bag. Then, she pushed for­ward with the Mon­ster bag and, last year, the FendiFaces bag for men. While fash­ion keeps chang­ing, it seems that Sil­via re­ally knows how to ride that un­pre­dictable wave of change.

All that, how­ever, might not be­come im­me­di­ately clear when you look at Fendi men’s spring/sum­mer 2017 show. There was a pool in the mid­dle of the cat­walk, and the col­lec­tion showed a lot of artis­tic in­terpre­ta­tions that gave a new lease on life to the fun­look­ing FendiFaces. It was also quirky and artsy, with Al­bert Ein­stein and Pablo Pi­casso as just two of the col­lec­tion’s many in­spi­ra­tions.

Fur, which has been the brand’s forte, also un­der­went a new trans­for­ma­tion. To recre­ate fur in a way that would be apt for sum­mer, Sil­via shrewdly used ter­rycloth—a ma­te­rial pri­mar­ily used for tow­els—for a new range of light jack­ets and other es­sen­tials for men. It is that no­tion of lux­ury “imitation” that ap­pears as a leit­mo­tif con­nect­ing Fendi’s icons through the years, from the Baguette bag which ob­vi­ously re­sem­bles an ac­tual baguette to the Mon­ster and FendiFaces that take af­ter their real-life coun­ter­parts.

And then there’s one fi­nal inim­itable in­gre­di­ent to their recipe for suc­cess: Sil­via’s fun per­son­al­ity along with her pen­chant to cheek­ily poke at men’s fash­ion and bring out that Ital­ian flam­boy­ance in all of us. DA MAN: What in­spired Fendi men’s spring/ sum­mer ’17 col­lec­tion? Sil­via Venturini Fendi: The col­lec­tion is re­ally in­spired by sum­mer­time and by the sun. I would call this col­lec­tion sun and fun. That is why I de­cided to have the mod­els walk by a pool [for the run­way show]. DA: Com­fort and snug­ness seemed to be the high­lights the fall/win­ter 2016 col­lec­tion. What about the spring/sum­mer ’17 col­lec­tion? SVF: This col­lec­tion is about en­joy­ing life and sim­ple plea­sures like be­ing by the pool and smelling the fresh air with your feet on the grass. It is about the sun and also keep­ing a fun el­e­ment in the col­lec­tion. DA: Fig­ures like Sal­vador Dalí and David Hock­ney were said to in­spire the col­lec­tion. How did you se­lect the artists? SVF: I was also very much in­spired by peo­ple that have been break­ing the rules of the con­ven­tional way of dress­ing, like Pablo Pi­casso or Sal­vador Dalì—artists that have been dress­ing with very per­sonal clothes. That’s why I called an artist to work on our iconic stripes, the Pe­quin, that was so pop­u­lar in the ’80s and ’90s for our travel line. We did beau­ti­ful water­color on our Pe­quin stripes. DA: Ter­rycloth ap­peared to be a unique el­e­ment in the col­lec­tion. In what way was the fab­ric in­cor­po­rated into the de­signs? SVF: The col­lec­tion is made of sim­ple clothes with very light and fluid fab­rics to give off an easy­go­ing at­ti­tude. The flow­ing, washed silks and vis­cose

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