Mas­ter of Change

Once again, Ja­sOn BasmaJian steers a ma­JOr fash­iOn hOuse in a new di­rec­tiOn. this sea­sOn, it’s cer­ruti 1881, which de­Buts its denim and spOrts­wear lines

DA MAN - Style - - Designer -

Years ago, Ja­son Basmajian headed Ital­ian fash­ion brand Bri­oni be­fore cre­at­ing a new chap­ter for one of the most cel­e­brated in­sti­tu­tions on Lon­don’s Sav­ile Row: Gieves & Hawkes. Now, for the spring and sum­mer of 2017, this maestro of pre­cise tai­lor­ing and clas­si­cal cuts delves into ca­sual styling, sports­wear and denim— even denim- on­denim—for Cer­ruti 1881. At the same time, Basmajian mas­ter­fully weaves this new ap­proach with the Ital­ian fash­ion house’s rich her­itage. The re­sult, as seen on the run­ways and de­scribed by the cre­ative di­rec­tor him­self, is a feast for the senses. DA MAN: Cer­ruti 1881’s spring/sum­mer ’17 col­lec­tion seems to com­prise a wide range of styles. Do you have a sin­gle, uni­fy­ing theme that runs through ev­ery look? Ja­son Basmajian: The theme of the spring/sum­mer ’17 col­lec­tion is more about pat­terns, tex­tures and an ur­ban mood bring­ing strong graphic el­e­ments into ex­clu­sive jacquard fab­rics. There’s a “Camou-Fo­liage” pat­tern that was in­spired by tree bark and na­ture, and which has been ex­pressed across sev­eral fab­ri­ca­tions and ac­ces­sories. The col­lec­tion is re­laxed with more gen­er­ous cuts and a soft color pal­ette. An ex­clu­sive, nat­u­ral stretch Cer­ruti cool-touch wool fab­ric is also across the col­lec­tion in dusters, mil­i­tary shirts, cargo pants and suits. DA: With a col­lec­tion com­pris­ing more denim pieces and fewer suits, among oth­ers, what mes­sage do you want to get across about Cer­ruti 1881? JB: The spring/sum­mer ’17 col­lec­tion fea­tures the launch of the denim and sports­wear part of the Cer­ruti uni­verse. We wanted to cel­e­brate the mas­cu­line and time­less el­e­gance of the brand, mix­ing sports­wear and tai­lor­ing. We took many in­spi­ra­tions from the fab­ric li­brary at Lan­i­fi­cio Fratelli Cer­ruti in Biella as well as our pre­vi­ous cin­e­matic col­lab­o­ra­tions. We would like to bal­ance cool and chic, el­e­gant and sport. DA: Work­wear ac­cents, such as the big pock­ets in the suit pants, seem to be a pretty dar­ing ad­di­tion in your col­lec­tion. Does this rep­re­sent the present or the fu­ture of menswear? JB: I feel it’s about clothes that are fa­mil­iar and com­fort­able. De­tails and pro­por­tions can add a new per­spec­tive on fa­vorite wardrobe pieces. DA: New vari­ants of high- qual­ity fab­rics are said to be the “hero” of this sea­son. In what ways are the fab­rics in this col­lec­tion dif­fer­ent from what we saw in the fall/win­ter col­lec­tion last year? JB: Cer­ruti was born from the fab­rics of the Lan­i­fi­cio Fratelli Cer­ruti tex­tile mill in Biella, Italy. The fab­rics have al­ways been es­sen­tial for the mai­son. This sea­son the dif­fer­ence lies in the col­ors: dusty pas­tels, min­eral shades and neu­trals. Mean­while, pat­terns come in sub­tle tex­tures, in­clud­ing the “Camou-Fo­liage” jacquard. The cuts are soft, re­laxed with more drap­ing, vol­ume and move­ment to the fab­ric. We would like to high­light the con­trast of tai­lor­ing and flu­id­ity. DA: It was said that Mr. Nino Cer­ruti him­self gave you ac­cess to his ex­clu­sive fab­rics for this par­tic­u­lar spring/sum­mer col­lec­tion. Could you tell us more about this ? JB: Mr. Cer­ruti gives me ac­cess to the Cer­ruti archive reg­u­larly. The first time was when I was nom­i­nated as chief cre­ative of­fi­cer. It is very fas­ci­nat­ing to see his ex­ten­sive knowl­edge about fash­ion. We are de­vel­op­ing ex­clu­sive fab­rics be­tween the stu­dio and the mill for the col­lec­tions.

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