Master of Change
Once again, JasOn BasmaJian steers a maJOr fashiOn hOuse in a new directiOn. this seasOn, it’s cerruti 1881, which deButs its denim and spOrtswear lines
Years ago, Jason Basmajian headed Italian fashion brand Brioni before creating a new chapter for one of the most celebrated institutions on London’s Savile Row: Gieves & Hawkes. Now, for the spring and summer of 2017, this maestro of precise tailoring and classical cuts delves into casual styling, sportswear and denim— even denim- ondenim—for Cerruti 1881. At the same time, Basmajian masterfully weaves this new approach with the Italian fashion house’s rich heritage. The result, as seen on the runways and described by the creative director himself, is a feast for the senses. DA MAN: Cerruti 1881’s spring/summer ’17 collection seems to comprise a wide range of styles. Do you have a single, unifying theme that runs through every look? Jason Basmajian: The theme of the spring/summer ’17 collection is more about patterns, textures and an urban mood bringing strong graphic elements into exclusive jacquard fabrics. There’s a “Camou-Foliage” pattern that was inspired by tree bark and nature, and which has been expressed across several fabrications and accessories. The collection is relaxed with more generous cuts and a soft color palette. An exclusive, natural stretch Cerruti cool-touch wool fabric is also across the collection in dusters, military shirts, cargo pants and suits. DA: With a collection comprising more denim pieces and fewer suits, among others, what message do you want to get across about Cerruti 1881? JB: The spring/summer ’17 collection features the launch of the denim and sportswear part of the Cerruti universe. We wanted to celebrate the masculine and timeless elegance of the brand, mixing sportswear and tailoring. We took many inspirations from the fabric library at Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti in Biella as well as our previous cinematic collaborations. We would like to balance cool and chic, elegant and sport. DA: Workwear accents, such as the big pockets in the suit pants, seem to be a pretty daring addition in your collection. Does this represent the present or the future of menswear? JB: I feel it’s about clothes that are familiar and comfortable. Details and proportions can add a new perspective on favorite wardrobe pieces. DA: New variants of high- quality fabrics are said to be the “hero” of this season. In what ways are the fabrics in this collection different from what we saw in the fall/winter collection last year? JB: Cerruti was born from the fabrics of the Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti textile mill in Biella, Italy. The fabrics have always been essential for the maison. This season the difference lies in the colors: dusty pastels, mineral shades and neutrals. Meanwhile, patterns come in subtle textures, including the “Camou-Foliage” jacquard. The cuts are soft, relaxed with more draping, volume and movement to the fabric. We would like to highlight the contrast of tailoring and fluidity. DA: It was said that Mr. Nino Cerruti himself gave you access to his exclusive fabrics for this particular spring/summer collection. Could you tell us more about this ? JB: Mr. Cerruti gives me access to the Cerruti archive regularly. The first time was when I was nominated as chief creative officer. It is very fascinating to see his extensive knowledge about fashion. We are developing exclusive fabrics between the studio and the mill for the collections.