Artistry, ingenuity & Virtuosity
The exhibition was held at The national
ART Center, Tokyo, from March 16th to June 13th 2016, to celebrate 45 years of the fashion label. Harper’s Bazaar Indonesia got to witness firsthand the collections by the iconic designer. The exhibition titled Miyake Issey Exhibition: The Work of Miyake Issey, curated collections of the label since its early days in 1970 until today.
Entering the exhibition area felt like walking amongst wild nature, spellbinding the eyes and heart into a limitless imagination. Curator Yayoi Motohashi, and architect Tadao Ando, led our steps into an avant-garde futuristic concept. The collections were displayed using fiberglass mannequins, spotlights, giant installations, and rolls of never-ending fabric presenting colorful emotions. Presentation of the clothing also invited visitors to look carefully into Issey Miyake’s ‘production secrets’, starting from machineries producing the iconic pleats to the experience in arranging his many 3-D concept designs. Fantastic!
The Issey Miyake exhibition expresses fashion with an artistic imagery. By Adi Surantha
Creations by Issey Miyake line a wall at the exhibitition
The creative artist born in Hiroshima on April 22nd, 1938 was shaped through art studies in Tokyo and then moved to Paris in 1965 to sharpen his interest in fashion. Just imagine the fusion of these two aspects! At the time, haute couture was shining, but Monozukuri was his statement, meaning to create something different that represented himself and his culture. Issey wanted to create artistic yet wearable clothing, and that was just what he portrayed through his first ever collection at Paris Fashion Week 1973. At the exhibition, this collection was displayed in a room full of enchanting spotlights. It seemed like he wanted to generate fashion that owned an intimate relationship with the body. The collection consisted of tattoo-feature body suits and jumpsuits as if it was second skin, inspired by Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin - rock n roll stars adored by the youth at the time. A dress originating from the idea of a handkerchief with a bias-cut technique, cocoon coat volume wrapping the body, to a jumpsuit that was cut directly out of a piece of fabric-these creations made all eyes in Paris turn to him. In the next room, the love of the designer who once worked as the assistant of Hubert de Givenchy – for body figures reached its peak. His ideas tussled in a hedonic lifestyle popular in the ‘80s. Issey mixed imagination and technology with imagination of his hometown. He designed bustiers, body suits, and tight-fit tops using innovative material. He named the designs Grid Body for the body-wrap collection, Plastic Body for the bustier made out of red, gold, blue, and grey fiberglass, and rattan
Body for the tops made from rattan bamboo craft. Wire Body was the name for a corset made from cable coils, and Waterfall Body for a draping-technique top made from jersey fabric that was soaked in silicon creating a waterfall effect. The collection seemed to unite the aesthetics of East and West, making it a hot topic for all fashionistas in Paris at the time.
Showcasing magnificently in the last room were the top series of Issey Miyake’s vision, Pleats, which has made his name well-known until today. He has evaluated fashion in his own way, beginning by experimenting on fabric and texture to create a silhouette or an innovative form of clothing. Fabric has been his pulse, starting by working Japanese washi paper, horse hair and raffia, to polyester and natural fibers. Therefore, Issey has applied the pleat technique on all of those materials that have made his business full of expansion. This collection was presented in a collection series named Cicada, Mutant, Border, Staircase, Moonlight, Seaweed, Flower, Monkey, Starfish Pleats and many more, bringing astonishment to the eyes. responding to this, Issey created a special label named Pleats Please Issey Miyake in 1993, which honored the designer The French Légion d’honneur from the French government.
Not stopping there, in 1998 Issey Miyake, together with his then creative director Dai Fujiwara, created a line collection series named A-POC (A Piece of Cloth), focusing on creating clothing using one thread in a single process with the help of computer technology. A variety of knit and embroidery designs were presented using giant rolls of hanging fabric. Until his last project line 132 5, Issey Miyake and scientist Jun Mitani, by The reality Lab, created a 3-D effect collection applying origami technique on clothing. In this area and era, Issey Miyake was sincerely praised, not only in Paris and his home country Japan, but also around the world. As he said, “I create in phrases: Making Think, Making Things, and Making reality.” Indeed, he has realized a definition of aesthetics in an artistic sculpture.
Pleats are another one of Miyake's signatures
Issey Miyake, an innovator in textile technology
Issey Miyake's earlist collections show how fundamental the APOC "one piece of cloth" premise is to his designs.