Shin­ing a spot­light on the qual­ity of sushi

JJK e-magazine - - FOOD TALK -

It’s in the rice.” That’s the an­swer I give each time I’m asked what makes a good sushi. “But isn’t all sushi rice just the same mushy, cold, and flavour­less ac­com­pa­ni­ment to the raw fish? And isn’t sushi more about the flavours of the fatty fish that the chefs top with may­on­naise and uni and truf­fle oil to make a holy­hand-grenade of flavours?” Please, snap out of it. And let me ex­plain. Let’s imag­ine that we have two sushi chefs, and each of them is in pos­ses­sion of the same high-qual­ity neta (top­ping) made of blue fin tuna. As they pro­ceed to make their own ver­sions of ni­giri sushi, the ques­tion is, what ac­tu­ally sets their cre­ations apart when they have ex­actly the same in­gre­di­ents? Ev­ery sushi restau­rant in the world has a fish sup­plier that will de­ter­mine a sushiya’s over­all qual­ity. But ul­ti­mately, a sushi chef’s skill is down to how he or she man­ages the rice.

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