For the love of lo­cal cof­fee

How In­done­sians are get­ting get back in touch with spe­cialty cof­fee, pro­pel­ling the pop­u­lar­ity of lo­cal beans.

The Jakarta Post - JPlus - - Contents - by Se­bas­tian Par­togi

Anas­ta­sia As­tuti says that, to her sur­prise, she couldn’t go on with­out a cup of lo­cally brewed cof­fee. “Hav­ing been in­tro­duced to In­done­sian spe­cialty beans, which have a won­der­fully de­li­cious taste, in mid-2015, I can no longer stand the aw­ful taste of in­stant cof­fee,” the 35-year-old said, adding that she dis­missed crit­i­cism from her friends, who now called her a cof­fee snob. Anas­ta­sia is not imag­in­ing things. Ve Han­dojo, the writer who co-founded the ABCD School of Cof­fee, says that there’s a dif­fer­ence be­tween spe­cialty and com­mod­ity beans. Spe­cialty beans have a pedi­gree: You know where they’re planted, at what height the beans are cul­ti­vated and how the beans har­vested and pro­cessed. This type of cof­fee also has a roast­ing pro­file, de­signed to ex­tract max­i­mum taste from the beans. “Con­sumers now un­der­stand how rich In­done­sia is, with cof­fee com­ing from Gayo, Aceh, To­raja and many more places,” he said. Each bean va­ri­ety has a dis­tinct blend of fla­vors com­ing from its ter­roir, a French term re­fer­ring to the nat­u­ral con­di­tions in which grape vines are cul­ti­vated to make wine. The con­cept holds true for cof­fee, too. Ac­cord­ing to tanam­er­a­cof­fee. com, Gayo cof­fee has Earthly notes with dark choco­laty and spicy nu­ances, while the Su­ma­tran Mand­helling has a more flo­ral, citrus berry and caramel-like pala­tial touch to it. It’s an amaz­ing di­ver­sity, tak­ing into con­sid­er­a­tion that they both come from the north­ern part of Su­ma­tra. No won­der so spe­cialty cof­fee fans are hooked, Ve says. “They be­come more cu­ri­ous to try and find out the fla­vor dif­fer­ences among the dif­fer­ent sin­gle-ori­gin cof­fee vari­ants.” Widya Ra­hayu, 27, works in qual­ity con­troller for a lo­cal firm and is cu­ri­ous about cof­fee. “I like to ex­plore the dif­fer­ent In­done­sian sin­gle-ori­gin cof­fee choices of­fered in dif­fer­ent cafes. Whether I go with a friend or alone, I don’t mind. I ex­plore th­ese cof­fee shops to ap­pre­ci­ate the fla­vors of the spe­cialty cof­fee they of­fer,” she said. Cof­fee shops have been flour­ish­ing, while the In­dus­try Min­istry says that do­mes­tic sin­gle-ori­gin cof­fee con­sump­tion is in­creas­ing 7.5 per­cent a year. Re­cently, In­done­sia has ranked as high as third on the list of the world’s big­gest cof­fee pro­duc­ers, after Brazil and Viet­nam, with an an­nual pro­duc­tion ca­pac­ity of ap­prox­i­mately 748,000 tons. Ac­cord­ing to Ve, the ori­gins of the cof­fee craze can be traced to the ar­rival of global chain Star­bucks in 2002. “Spe­cialty cof­fee was thrust into wild pop­u­lar­ity in 2014 when the A Bunch of Caf­feine Deal­ers [ABCD] com­mu­nity in Pasar Santa brought it closer to the pub­lic through cof­fee gath­er­ing events inside the tra­di­tional mar­ket,” Vu said, re­fer­ring to the tra­di­tional mar­ket with a hip­ster fol­low­ing. Other cof­fee shops, such as Ruang Se­duh in Jakarta and Tir­todipu­ran in Yo­gyakarta, have since fol­lowed suit, invit­ing cus­tomers to ex­plore dif­fer­ent bean types and even brew their own cups of Java. So this is why you see more peo­ple buy­ing their own pack­aged cof­fee beans, in­tent on grind­ing and brew­ing the beans them­selves. They’re look­ing for a daily caf­feine fix.

Tast­ing a bit of java at a booth run by the In­done­sia Cof­fee Work­shop for the World, as part of the Habi­bie Fes­ti­val, in 2016.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Indonesia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.