NY fash­ion week top 10 trends

New York Fash­ion Week wrapped Wed­nes­day in an ex­plo­sion of glow­ing colors, greater in-roads into di­ver­sity, de­sign­ers still pon­der­ing the point of the run­way and younger tal­ent given a chance to shine.

The Jakarta Post - - FRONT PAGE - Jen­nie Matthew

As the global style band­wagon now flits to Europe, with Lon­don Fash­ion Week kick­ing off on Fri­day be­fore mov­ing onto Mi­lan and Paris, here are 10 top trends New York of­fered this sea­son:

1990S THROW­BACK

Tom Ford kicked off the week by go­ing back to his Gucci hey­day, min­ing for in­spi­ra­tion the decade that made him fa­mous. There were plenty of low-slung pants, hip-graz­ing cut-out body­suits and boxy jack­ets. Ital­ian la­bel GCDS also went for low-slung and body­suits, while Os­car de la Renta and Vic­to­ria Beck­ham showed over­sized jack­ets. Oh, and 1990s su­per­model Cindy Craw­ford of­fi­cially passed the ba­ton to the next gen­er­a­tion — her 16-yearold daugh­ter Kaia Ger­ber made her run­way de­but for the Calvin Klein, Alexan­der Wang and Marc Ja­cobs.

UN­DER BOOB

New York may be pri­mar­ily a com­mer­cial mar­ket that lux­u­ri­ates in wear­able fash­ion, and above all, sales — but side boob has been tabloid fod­der for years and de­sign­ers were not afraid to be dar­ing. Spring/sum­mer is the sea­son for un­der boob — tops so short they just graze the nip­ple, re­veal­ing plenty of flesh un­der­neath. See Chro­mat and Vic­tor Bar­ra­gan. GCDS took it a step fur­ther by even show­ing nip­ple. Jack­ets were opened to re­veal side boob at Vicky Zhang.

RAINBOW COLORS

Col­lec­tions were a riot of ev­ery color from the rainbow — hot pink paired with red: the color combo of the sea­son for the brave Tom Ford shop­per. Marc Ja­cobs went orange, green and psy­che­delic. Spain’s lux­ury pret-a-cou­ture la­bel De­polzo lux­u­ri­ated in green, pale pink and bright yel­low. Yel­low was a state­ment color at Carolina Her­rera and also Ralph Lau­ren, in tulle with a black biker jacket.

CHECK MATE

Fine check — or the graph-pa­per look as Vic­to­ria Beck­ham told AFP — is hav­ing a mo­ment. See Rosie As­soulin, Pub­lic School, Chris­tian Siri­ano, Monse, Calvin Klein and rag & bone among oth­ers.

STRIPE RIGHT

Tra­di­tion­ally the pre­serve of old-fash­ioned pa­ja­mas, blue was the color of choice for ver­ti­cal stripes. Seen at Rosie As­soulin, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Phillip Lim, Sies Mar­jan, Monse and Ja­son Wu.

FLA­MENCO

With fla­menco an ul­ti­mate and time­less sum­mer fan­tasy, there were flounces and ruf­fles ga­lore for a flirty, sen­su­ous look. See Carolina Her­rera, Os­car de la Renta, Phillip Lim and Jeremy Scott.

POL­I­TICS

Dis­gust with Don­ald Trump con­tin­ues to bub­ble over in New York and res­onates well with the largely fe­male clien­tele of lux­ury fash­ion la­bels — not to men­tion a Demo­crat-vot­ing, di­verse group of de­sign­ers. Tory Burch of­fered an ode to hap­pi­ness to es­cape trou­bled times. Re­tailer alice + olivia had a model pose in front of a fem­i­nist wall and of­fered a Su­per Woman clutch. Raf Si­mons, whose show for Calvin Klein was the week’s stand out, med­i­tated on the Amer­i­can dream meets Amer­i­can hor­ror. Ri­hanna-fa­vorite Matthew Adams Dolan said that in times of “re­lent­less civil un­rest and widen­ing po­lit­i­cal di­vides,” he reimag­ined a “work­ing wardrobe for an in­clu­sive and cel­e­bra­tory gen­er­a­tion.”

DI­VER­SITY

Con­tin­u­ing a theme, per­haps snub­bing their nose at Trump’s as­sault on mi­nori­ties, the no­to­ri­ously snooty world of fash­ion is start­ing to re­lax is rules of mem­ber­ship. Plus-size mod­els are hav­ing a mo­ment in the sun, see Ash­ley Gra­ham walk­ing for Pra­bal Gu­rung and Michael Kors, not to men­tion plus-size only col­lec­tions from Ad­di­tion Elle and Chro­mat.

GIV­ING OTH­ERS A CHANCE

With Raf Si­mons the lone stand­out and the de­par­ture of es­tab­lished trend set­ters Ro­darte, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne and Al­tuzarra to Paris, it gave edi­tors, blog­gers and buy­ers time to check out shows sev­eral con­fessed they would never have both­ered to see oth­er­wise. One was Mex­i­can-born Vic­tor Bar­ra­gan, 25, who got a packed house for his third New York show, of­fer­ing an orig­i­nal take on what it means to be mas­cu­line/ fem­i­nine, the fe­male body and de­fy­ing con­ven­tions.

END OF THE RUN­WAY

A hot topic of con­ver­sa­tion for some time, an in­creas­ing num­ber of de­sign­ers are search­ing for some­thing dif­fer­ent. Ralph Lau­ren un­veiled his col­lec­tion out of town along­side his col­lec­tion of rac­ing cars. Duchess of Cam­bridge fa­vorite Jenny Pack­ham, who next year cel­e­brates her epony­mous evening la­bel’s 30th an­niver­sary, ditched the run­way in fa­vor of a pho­to­graphic and video cam­paign re­leased on Thurs­day. “I got what I wanted re­ally and I just felt it needed a bit more in­tegrity re­ally,” she told AFP.

AFP/Slaven Vla­sic/Getty Images

Os­car De La Renta

Sexy curves: Model Ash­ley Gra­ham walks the run­way for Michael Kors Col­lec­tion Spring 2018 Run­way Show at Spring Stu­dios in New York City.

AFP/Frazer Har­ri­son

Pra­bal Gu­rung

Run­way de­but: Model Kaia Ger­ber walks the run­way for Marc Ja­cobs SS18 fash­ion show dur­ing New York Fash­ion Week at Park Av­enue Ar­mory in New York City.

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