AQUAVIT
Nordic restaurant Aquavit opened in the sleek new St James’s Market development, just off Lower Regent Street, in November. A sister venue to the acclaimed Aquavit in New York, which has two Michelin stars, it takes a more relaxed approach than its fine-dining sibling.
As much a showcase for Scandi design as it is Nordic dining, the interior, by Martin Brudnizki (behind the likes of Sexy Fish and the Ivy), is glossy and gorgeous, light flooding the double-height 142-cover space through floor-to-ceiling windows.
The menu, created by executive chef Henrik Ritzen and Aquavit New York executive chef Emma Bengtsson, offers “a contemporary take on authentic Nordic cuisine”. I recommend starting with a smorgasbord of small plates – we had crunchy, tart pickles (£3), creamy and crisp shrimp skagen (prawns on toast, £9), subtly spiced blood pudding with lingonberries, bacon and lardo (£6), refreshing and earthy celeriac, mustard and lovage (£4) and delicate slivers of gravlax with mustard and dill sauce (£9). It was all delicious, and looked great, too – all vibrant colours and pretty garnishing.
My main of Swedish meatballs, lingonberries and pickled cucumber (£16), was comforting – the tang of the berries and cucumber cutting through the sweetly seasoned pork and beef, silky mash and velvety veal stock-based sauce – while the warm chocolate cake with tarragon ice cream and clementine sorbet (£8) was beautiful, oozing hot sauce. Service was accomplished and friendly, which, combined with the fantastic Nordic flavours and glamorous setting, make Aquavit an impressive addition to London’s dining scene. Michelle Harbi