Frank­furt

Olivia Palam­oun­tain dis­cov­ers ex­per­i­men­tal art, sub­ter­ranean speakeasies and hearty cui­sine in the Ger­man fi­nan­cial cap­i­tal

Business Traveller - - 4 HOURS IN... -

1 BAHNHOFSVIERTEL Start in the in­fa­mous Bahnhofsviertel, the red light dis­trict, which is neatly sit­u­ated on the doorstep of the Haupt­bahn­hof sta­tion. Lined with sex shops, bud­get stores, ke­bab joints and the odd brothel, it’s cer­tainly got char­ac­ter – but why bother vis­it­ing? Be­cause the “train sta­tion quar­ter” is the city’s hottest dis­trict, full of edgy cof­fee shops, clubs and bright young things.

For a taste of the scene, check out Amp (Gal­lu­san­lage 2; ampy­our­self.de), which pumps out caf­feine by day and tunes by night, stu­dio-cum-café and bar Plank (Elbe­strasse 15; bar­plank.de), and Maxie Eisen (Munch­ener Strasse 18; max­ieeisen.com), a deli and cock­tail bar named af­ter a Ger­man-Jewish gangster from Chicago. In true speakeasy style, many of the hippest hang­outs are not easy to find. Un­der­ground sup­per haunt Club Michel lies above a thrift and lug­gage store at 12 Munch­ener Strasse and is well worth a visit.

If you’re lucky, you may also catch the Taunusstrasse Arts and Bites fes­ti­val (tab-ffm.de), a monthly art mar­ket in the 1970s Kais­er­pas­sage.

2 LOHNINGER Hun­gry? Head to­wards the Un­ter­main­bruke, past Willy Brandt Platz and over the bridge to the south bank, and you’ll find Lohninger, one of Frank­furt’s best-kept lunchtime se­crets. This fam­ily-run restau­rant of­fers well-heeled lo­cals a con­cise menu of clas­sic Aus­trian cui­sine, in­clud­ing the best wiener sch­nitzel in town and a fluffy, caramelised kaiser­schmarrn that will make you ques­tion ev­ery­thing you thought you knew about pan­cakes.

The “Radet­zky menu”, so called af­ter Strauss’s dou­ble-quick march, is the best bet if you’re tight for time, or get stuck into a sim­ple but ef­fec­tive pas­trami sand­wich with pick­les. Sch­weizer Strasse 1; lohninger.de 3 FRANKFURTER SENFGALERIE Con­tinue south on Sch­weizer Strasse for a cou­ple of min­utes and you will ar­rive at Frankfurter Senfgalerie. An homage to mus­tard, this tidy shop sells more than 150 va­ri­eties of the stuff, along with salts, spices, vine­gars, oils and chut­neys. All prod­ucts are of the finest qual­ity and

pre­dom­i­nantly pro­duced in Ger­many, with many mus­tards still made in his­toric mills around the coun­try.

Lo­cal spe­cial­i­ties in­clude an ap­ple wine mus­tard, with added oomph from the city’s fa­mous tip­ple, and green sauce mus­tard, a herby best­seller made from pars­ley, chives, chervil, cress and sor­rel, pro­duced ex­clu­sively for the shop. Splash out and pimp your next sausage with the per­fect Frank­furt souvenir. frankfurter-senfgalerie.de

4 PORTIKUS A 12-minute walk along Schau­mainkai and north over Frank­furt’s old­est bridge, the

Alte Brucke, will lead you to the is­land home of Portikus. First con­ceived in 1987 and as­so­ci­ated with the renowned art academy Stadelschule, the cur­rent space was de­signed by Christoph Mack­ler in 2006 and en­joys a rep­u­ta­tion as one of the world’s lead­ing cen­tres for ex­per­i­men­tal art, ded­i­cated to ex­hibit­ing, pub­lish­ing and dis­cussing both emerg­ing and es­tab­lished artists.

This year, Portikus is cel­e­brat­ing its 30th birth­day with a spe­cial pro­gramme of ex­hi­bi­tions. An­niver­sary project Portikus XXX is an evolv­ing show that aims to con­nect Frank­furt to the gallery with new works pre­sented in ur­ban spa­ces through­out the city. Open Tues, Thurs-Sun 11am-6pm, Wed 11am-8pm; free en­try. portikus.de/en

5 CONDIT COU­TURE Con­tinue north over the bridge, take a left on Mainkai and a right on Fahrtor. It’s only about an eight-minute stroll but should be enough to war­rant a cheeky pick-meup at at Condit Cou­ture. This con­fec­tion­ers and bak­ery cre­ates sweet sen­sa­tions at haute cou­ture level, fus­ing tra­di­tional French tech­niques with 21stcen­tury imag­i­na­tion and flair. There’s ev­ery­thing from black for­est pies and sacher­torte to uni­corn meringues and lemon and rose­mary gateaux. Warm ap­ple strudel and a creamy hot choco­late is a must. con­dit­cou­ture.com

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