Ter­roir Parisien

Business Traveller - - TRIED AND TESTED LONDON RESTAURANTS - Jeremy Tredin­nick

Parisian super-chef Yan­nick Al­léno opened his first Hong Kong es­tab­lish­ment in Au­gust 2017. The cheer­ful bistro de luxe is sur­pris­ingly af­ford­able given its high-end lo­ca­tion in Cen­tral’s Prince’s Build­ing. There’s an open kitchen, is­land bar and two seat­ing ar­eas with booths and ta­bles. Stylish black-and-white pho­tos line the walls, while stain­less-steel ta­bles and pa­per place­mats re­minded me of my favourite café-bistros in Paris’s Mont­martre dis­trict.

Starters in­clude ob­vi­ous sta­ples such as onion soup or oven­baked Camem­bert along­side some more in­trigu­ing choices. We opted for black lentils with nut­meg crème fraîche and warm bli­nis (de­scribed on the menu as caviar de lentilles et bli­nis) and snails baked in a large mush­room cap with pars­ley and gar­lic but­ter (bouchées de champignons de Paris aux es­car­gots). The flavours were smooth and del­i­cate, the snails fan­tas­tic, the lentils per­haps a lit­tle bland, need­ing slightly more nut­meg. From 12 mains, we plumped for scal­lops cooked on a bed of rice pi­laf/paella with aro­matic broth (“Pi­lafaela” de noix de co­quilles Saint-Jac­ques) and lamb shoul­der ragout with sea­sonal veg­eta­bles (Navarin print­anier d’ag­neau). The scal­lops were cooked to per­fec­tion but it was the meati­ness of the pi­laf rice – cooked in a chicken stock – that most im­pressed me. The lamb was smoth­ered in fresh car­rots, green beans and peas, flanked by tasty new pota­toes and swim­ming in a de­li­cious sauce – su­perb, hearty fare.

The sig­na­ture dessert, a Saint-Honoré (caramelised choux pas­try, kirsch cus­tard and sweet­ened whipped cream) was sin­fully good, es­pe­cially with its creamy com­bi­na­tions of tex­ture.

The wine list is ex­clu­sively French; we tried a crisp sauvi­gnon blanc and an ex­cel­lent mer­lot-caber­net franc blend.

VERDICT A great place that largely suc­ceeds in repli­cat­ing a Parisian bistro, al­beit a very stylish one. The hearty French fare is cooked very well, pre­sented nicely and is very good value. A fun place for an en­joy­able meal in the heart of Hong Kong.

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