This is chef Simon Rogan’s latest attempt to crack the London market after the unanimous acclaim of his restaurant in the Lake District, L’Enclume. It has many of his signature approaches: foraging, fermentation, molecular cooking and multi-course menus of small plates. The high prices make it a temple of gastronomy best suited to special occasions and celebrations, yet the dining room is modest, the service casual.
Highlights of our six-course meal included appetisers of fermented raspberry tart, tender sous-vide pork, and plenty of surprises along the way such as little parcels of raw beef wrapped in thin slivers of kohlrabi. There are various menu options, starting at a £40 business lunch up to £115 for the tasting menu; the latter has the option of paired wines for an additional £75 per head. These prices are excluding service, so dinner can easily top £200 per person.
VERDICT Chef Simon Rogan’s best venture in the Big Smoke so far, though it doesn’t approach the sublime experience that makes L’Enclume in the Lake District one of the best restaurants in the UK – and the world.