Business Traveller - - TRIED AND TESTED LONDON RESTAURANTS - Guy Di­mond

This is chef Si­mon Ro­gan’s lat­est at­tempt to crack the London mar­ket af­ter the unan­i­mous ac­claim of his restau­rant in the Lake District, L’En­clume. It has many of his sig­na­ture ap­proaches: for­ag­ing, fer­men­ta­tion, molec­u­lar cook­ing and multi-course menus of small plates. The high prices make it a tem­ple of gas­tron­omy best suited to spe­cial oc­ca­sions and cel­e­bra­tions, yet the din­ing room is mod­est, the ser­vice ca­sual.

High­lights of our six-course meal in­cluded ap­pe­tis­ers of fer­mented rasp­berry tart, ten­der sous-vide pork, and plenty of sur­prises along the way such as lit­tle parcels of raw beef wrapped in thin sliv­ers of kohlrabi. There are var­i­ous menu op­tions, start­ing at a £40 busi­ness lunch up to £115 for the tast­ing menu; the lat­ter has the op­tion of paired wines for an ad­di­tional £75 per head. These prices are ex­clud­ing ser­vice, so din­ner can eas­ily top £200 per per­son.

VER­DICT Chef Si­mon Ro­gan’s best ven­ture in the Big Smoke so far, though it doesn’t ap­proach the sub­lime ex­pe­ri­ence that makes L’En­clume in the Lake District one of the best restau­rants in the UK – and the world.

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