Dining in Lisbon, Portugal’s culinary hotspot

Whether you dine in a former 17th-century convent or a converted shipping container, the glorious seafood, forward-thinking chefs and charismatic atmosphere of restaurants in Portugal’s chic capital will thrill gourmet travellers, writes Jeff Mills

WHEN IT COMES TO A CITY CHANGING ITS REPUTATION IT

doesn’t come much better than the re-branding of Lisbon. It wasn’t so long ago that Portugal’s capital suffered a reputation as something of a sleepy backwater but things have changed dramatically in this, the most westerly of major European cities. Lisbon is now one of the most exciting places to visit, offering some of the best foodie experiences to be found anywhere. Make a start in the heart of the city, the Baixa, an 18th- Century grid making up the lower town, enclosed by the hills of the Tagus estuary and linked to other districts by a series of small cobbled streets and the occasional funicular railways, which grind their way up some impressive gradients. It is up on these heights in the Bairro Alto, or upper town area, high above the city centre, that you will find the real pulsing beat of Lisbon. This is where you will find a wide choice of small restaurants and bars, many of which do a roaring trade well into the small hours of the morning. And while you are there, pop in for a drink at a fado bar. Be warned though: while the local music may be much prized by locals, it is an acquired taste. Also make time for a visit to the Alfama Quarter, which tumbles down the hill from the walls of the castle right to the river, most of which escaped serious damage in an earthquake that destroyed much of the city. Here, among the antique shops, fado bars and quirky restaurants, you will still be able to see life going on much as it has for centuries. To mingle with the locals and check out what culinary delights are on offer at street level, a good starting point is Lisbon’s oldest fish and produce market, the Mercado da Ribeira near Cais do Sodré station, which has been transformed into a street food emporium where, particularly on Saturdays, you will find the market stalls alive with people feasting on everything from chorizo sandwiches and raw fish to entrecôte and pizzas. Fish features in a major way on the menus in Lisbon, hardly surprising perhaps when you consider its location right on the Atlantic Ocean, though there are plenty of Mediterranean influences, too, not to mention exotic touches of spices brought here from Portugal’s former colonies. Piri piri (fiery peppers) and cinnamon play a big part, as do vanilla, saffron and, of course, olive oil and garlic. Look out for the dish known as Bacalhau, a national treasure featuring cod but with dozens of different recipes, one of the best known of which is Bacalhau à Brás, an exquisite combination of cod with onions, potato chips, olives, parsley and eggs. And let’s not overlook Peixinhos da horta, traditional deep-fried tempura, often containing seafood or vegetables, discovered by the Portuguese explorers during their travels to Japan. They are eaten as a kind of local version of Spanish tapas, with a dip of mustard mayonnaise with onions and various herbs. For meat lovers there is Lisbon’s answer to a French chateaubriand steak or an Italian Fiorentina – posta mirandesa, which comes in the form of a thick tenderloin steak, from free-range Mirandesa cattle, cooked over a fire. It’s said to be the finest beef dish to be found in the country. And whatever you do, don’t leave Lisbon without heading for Belém where, apart from admiring the famous tower and the views over the city, you should visit one of Lisbon’s best-loved treasures, the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, a delightful little coffee shop, decorated with antique tiles, where the speciality is warm pasties de nata, sweet and delicious Portuguese custard tarts, the taste of which you will remember for a long time.