stripe d

film noir-in­spired photography by richard foster

Plaza Watch International - - Contents -

Of all the enamel tech­niques, from cloi­sonné to cham­plevé to Grand Feu, which one is con­sid­ered the most dif­fi­cult?

– Brigitte Mo­rina: There is only one true enamel: Grand Feu enamel. Oth­er­wise it is not enamel. All tech­niques are dif­fi­cult but the most dif­fi­cult and rare one is minia­ture paint­ing. The num­ber of peo­ple in the world who are ca­pa­ble of ex­e­cut­ing a finely de­tailed paint­ing on the tiny sur­face area of a watch dial is small to say the least. How has the craft of enam­el­ing evolved for the 21st cen­tury?

– Our ar­ti­sans still use the same tools: brushes, agate mor­tars, but the ar­rival of the ther­mo­stat (oven) and mi­cro­scope ease a bit their work of art. Fire re­mains the mas­ter. On the other side, be­cause of en­vi­ron­men­tal rea­sons, some ox­ides/ colors dis­ap­peared and it is a chal­lenge to re­cre­ate some colors, like a deep plain black, for ex­am­ple. Also, as there is no school for craft of enam­el­ing in horol­ogy, it is all about trans­mis­sion and share of know- how be­tween enamelists. What dis­tin­guishes the enamel watches from De­Laneau from those of other brands?

– At De­Laneau, we have our own enamel work­shop. Our ar­ti­sans com­bine their know-how, skills, in­spi­ra­tions and emo­tions to­gether with great ex­per­tise to cre­ate and re­al­ize unique pieces. They are in­volved in the cre­ative process, from the very be­gin­ning. Also, they cre­ate their pieces from A to Z. This is not com­mon in our in­dus­try. Our pro­duc­tion ca­pac­ity is nat­u­rally very limited and it is a truly mag­i­cal mo­ment each time one sees a com­plete new dial for the first time.

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