Plaza Watch International - - Baselworld Roundup -

The UTTE (Ul­tra-Thin Tour­bil­lon Es­cape­ment) took me by sur­prise. Drawn to Arnold & Son’s Basel­world booth by the new Time Pyra­mid (a truly amaz­ing con­struc­tion, which could also have made this list for cer­tain), I was de­lighted to dis­cover this strangely-named wrist­watch as well. And I con­fess that since the fair I have of­ten thought about its un­der­stated beauty and the in­ge­nu­ity it rep­re­sents.

The man­u­ally wound Cal­i­bre A&S8200 was de­vel­oped, de­signed and man­u­fac­tured en­tirely at the brand’s work­shops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. At an in­cred­i­ble height of 2.97 mm, it still finds room to in­clude a one-minute fly­ing tour­bil­lon ris­ing above its rhodium-plated Ger­man sil­ver bridges – a lux­u­ri­ous, finicky ma­te­rial that not many brands will spend the ex­tra ef­fort on as it eas­ily scratches and tar­nishes. The tour­bil­lon cage is com­pletely de­void of any flat sur­faces, which lends it a grand three-di­men­sional vis­ual and al­lows it to re­main on the same level as the hands. The tour­bil­lon cage is an im­pres­sive 14 mm in di­am­e­ter, mean­ing that it takes al­most half the space avail­able within the 32 mm move­ment. The move­ment also con­tains twin spring bar­rels that pro­vide 80 hours of power re­serve.

The Cal­i­bre A&S8200 is housed in a case that mea­sures a very el­e­gant 42 mm in di­am­e­ter and 8.34 mm in height and is avail­able in a choice of 18-karat red gold or pal­la­dium, a metal that be­longs to the plat­inum fam­ily and re­mains very rare in the world of watch­mak­ing. The clas­sic look is com­pleted by a sil­very opa­line dial em­bel­lished with côtes de Genève ray­on­nates, which, un­like the usual côtes de Genève dec­o­ra­tion, pro­vides a sun­burst styling, which in this case em­anates from the tour­bil­lon cut­away. Pro­duc­tion of the UTTE is limited to just 50 pieces in each case metal. ED


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