ARNOLD & SON
The UTTE (Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Escapement) took me by surprise. Drawn to Arnold & Son’s Baselworld booth by the new Time Pyramid (a truly amazing construction, which could also have made this list for certain), I was delighted to discover this strangely-named wristwatch as well. And I confess that since the fair I have often thought about its understated beauty and the ingenuity it represents.
The manually wound Calibre A&S8200 was developed, designed and manufactured entirely at the brand’s workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. At an incredible height of 2.97 mm, it still finds room to include a one-minute flying tourbillon rising above its rhodium-plated German silver bridges – a luxurious, finicky material that not many brands will spend the extra effort on as it easily scratches and tarnishes. The tourbillon cage is completely devoid of any flat surfaces, which lends it a grand three-dimensional visual and allows it to remain on the same level as the hands. The tourbillon cage is an impressive 14 mm in diameter, meaning that it takes almost half the space available within the 32 mm movement. The movement also contains twin spring barrels that provide 80 hours of power reserve.
The Calibre A&S8200 is housed in a case that measures a very elegant 42 mm in diameter and 8.34 mm in height and is available in a choice of 18-karat red gold or palladium, a metal that belongs to the platinum family and remains very rare in the world of watchmaking. The classic look is completed by a silvery opaline dial embellished with côtes de Genève rayonnates, which, unlike the usual côtes de Genève decoration, provides a sunburst styling, which in this case emanates from the tourbillon cutaway. Production of the UTTE is limited to just 50 pieces in each case metal. ED