Bul­gari Octo Finis­simo Tour­bil­lon

Plaza Watch International - - The Best of Baselworld 2014 - YJMD

While Bul­gari has been fo­cus­ing on its Octo range over the past few years, it has def­i­nitely stepped up its game in 2014. The best ul­tra­thin time­piece to come out of BaselWorld with a Bul­gari-made hand-wound move­ment mea­sur­ing only 1.95mm high and a plat­inum case of just 5mm thick, the flag­ship Octo Finis­simo Tour­bil­lon holds the cur­rent record for the world’s thinnest tour­bil­lon by far (the move­ment is over one mil­lime­tre thin­ner than the last record-holder). The Octo is ac­tu­ally the brain­child of the late leg­endary watch de­signer Ger­ald Genta, whose de­sign Bul­gari ac­quired with its in­clu­sion of the Ger­ald Genta la­bel; it re­leased its first fully in-house branded ver­sion of the Octo in 2012. While su­per-slim watches are all the rage right now, they usu­ally come in round cases, rather than oc­tag­o­nal, which makes the highly-ar­chi­tec­tural Octo Finis­simo Tour­bil­lon, bal­anc­ing tech­nique and beauty, ex­tra spe­cial. The 40mm case with 110 dif­fer­ent facets is paired with a clean, el­e­gant black lac­quered dial with sim­ple hour and minute dis­play. Both case and move­ment were specif­i­cally en­gi­neered for thin­ness. In fact, the strap almost feels thicker than the case! One of the main ways space was saved in the 249-com­po­nent, 21,600-vph move­ment with 55-hour power re­serve, was through the use of ball bear­ings for the mov­ing parts where other types of com­po­nents may have been tra­di­tion­ally used, and it was de­cided that the move­ment would only be as thick as the tour­bil­lon cage. The one-minute fly­ing tour­bil­lon of­fers an orig­i­nal ap­pear­ance as Bul­gari elim­i­nated the reg­u­la­tor assem­bly, ad­just­ing the tim­ing di­rectly on the bal­ance wheel in­stead, thereby con­tribut­ing to the move­ment’s over­all slen­der­ness.

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