Idá’s, Din­gle, Co Kerry

Irish Examiner - Supplement - - FOOD & DRINK IRELAND -

Chef/Pro­pri­etor: Kevin Mur­phy

Dish: For­aged Broth of Land and Sea, Squid Noo­dles

Kevin Mur­phy may be cook­ing at a level on a par with the very best chefs in the coun­try but the ethos be­hind his culi­nary out­put is very much rooted in the ter­roir of the penin­sula and its sur­round­ing seas and this dish is an at­tempt to tell that ‘story’ of the lo­cal­ity — and if that’s all too high­fa­lutin’ for ya, it re­mains, nonethe­less, a stun­ning dish.

“It’s one of the first things you get af­ter the snack cour­ses [Idá’s only serve tast­ing menus], so we like to start off with some­thing umami-rich and salty,” says Mur­phy.

“We for­age our own kelp and make a kelp and mush­room dashi.

“Then we add Bal­ly­houra Mush­room Shi­itakes, which are a nice lit­tle umami bomb and purslane, orache and sea aster then Squid ‘noo­dles’ with a lit­tle bit of flat leaf pars­ley salt to give it a fi­nal lift.”

Nei­ther is that the end of the tale: The dish is served in a bowl made by pot­ter David Holden, us­ing clay from Fion­nach beach out on the penin­sula.

“It’s a nice dish to get the palate go­ing and il­lus­trates how we cel­e­brate the penin­sula,” says Mur­phy.

Kevin Mur­phy of Idá’s, Din­gle, pre­par­ing his For­aged Broth dish.

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