Idá’s, Dingle, Co Kerry
Chef/Proprietor: Kevin Murphy
Dish: Foraged Broth of Land and Sea, Squid Noodles
Kevin Murphy may be cooking at a level on a par with the very best chefs in the country but the ethos behind his culinary output is very much rooted in the terroir of the peninsula and its surrounding seas and this dish is an attempt to tell that ‘story’ of the locality — and if that’s all too highfalutin’ for ya, it remains, nonetheless, a stunning dish.
“It’s one of the first things you get after the snack courses [Idá’s only serve tasting menus], so we like to start off with something umami-rich and salty,” says Murphy.
“We forage our own kelp and make a kelp and mushroom dashi.
“Then we add Ballyhoura Mushroom Shiitakes, which are a nice little umami bomb and purslane, orache and sea aster then Squid ‘noodles’ with a little bit of flat leaf parsley salt to give it a final lift.”
Neither is that the end of the tale: The dish is served in a bowl made by potter David Holden, using clay from Fionnach beach out on the peninsula.
“It’s a nice dish to get the palate going and illustrates how we celebrate the peninsula,” says Murphy.
Kevin Murphy of Idá’s, Dingle, preparing his Foraged Broth dish.