How can I pro­tect my sen­si­tive skin with SPF50 with­out spoil­ing my makeup?

Irish Examiner - Weekend - - Beauty -

SPF50 prod­ucts pro­vide only about 1.3% greater UVB pro­tec­tion than those with SPF30, so if you al­ready use a broad­spec­trum ver­sion of the lat­ter there is not much need to shop. Sun pro­tec­tive mois­turis­ers are of­ten in­com­pat­i­ble with makeup’s tex­ture or colour. Creamy sun­screen for­mu­las can make makeup pill, shine or slip.

Skin­care com­pa­nies typ­i­cally coun­ter­act this ef­fect by adding al­co­hol (mak­ing a for­mula thin and wa­tery) or sil­i­cones (cre­at­ing a silky serum). The sil­i­cone op­tion is em­i­nently prefer­able: Al­co­hol de­hy­drates and sen­si­tises skin while sil­i­cones are harm­less even around the eyes (an area es­pe­cially vul­ner­a­ble to al­co­hol ir­ri­ta­tion). It is true that sil­i­cones are syn­thetic but mar­ket­ing in­sin­u­a­tions that this ren­ders them toxic or sim­ply a less con­sci­en­tious skin­care choice for you or your chil­dren are ground­less.

Sil­i­cones are both eco­nom­i­cal and present in a wide va­ri­ety of vig­or­ously-tested con­sumer goods rang­ing from food to build­ing ma­te­ri­als to toys.

There is some sus­pi­cion that sil­i­cones’ film­ing-form­ing na­ture causes spots but their use in such a wide va­ri­ety of both acne and wound-heal­ing prod­ucts should re­as­sure (wounds, in par­tic­u­lar, need to breathe and the film formed by sil­i­cones is more ac­cu­rately pic­tured as mesh than purely oc­clu­sive). More­over, the al­co­hol em­ployed in al­ter­na­tive oily-skin for­mu­las both ex­ac­er­bates ex­cess se­bum pro­duc­tion and slows the heal­ing of post-spot marks over time (as does go­ing with­out broad-spec­trum sun pro­tec­tion).

Colour change is par­tic­u­larly prob­lem­atic for sen­si­tive skin, as the gen­tlest sun­screen ac­tives have a whitish cast nat­u­rally. I am very im­pressed with Mu­rad’s new City Skin Age De­fense Broad Spec­trum SPF50, €51 (main im­age, left). Not only is the light­weight (sil­i­conebased) for­mula com­fort­ing, smooth and quickly lay­ered, it also con­tains sig­nif­i­cant amounts of lutein and Vi­ta­min C, both bright­en­ing an­tiox­i­dants that work to re­pair ex­is­tent sun dam­age. A peach­based tint con­ceals the sen­si­tive skin­friendly white ox­ides but is sheer enough not to al­ter your foun­da­tion. I would not deem it bold enough for colour-cor­rect­ing (I even use City Skin Age De­fence on my hands with­out smudgy con­se­quences). The for­mula is free from fra­grance and any­thing else likely to ir­ri­tate sen­si­tive types. There are no shine-con­trol in­gre­di­ents but if you are af­ter those your makeup is likely mat­ti­fy­ing any­way.

The pack­ag­ing is an opaque screw-cap bot­tle, which keeps the con­tents sta­ble. My sole com­plaint is the amount you get per euro, the bot­tle is far too small.

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