Beauty

The 1980s throw­back was a re­cur­ring theme at the SS17 shows. Rachel Marie Walsh re­veals how to get the look

Irish Examiner - Weekend - - Inside -

Truly mod­ern makeup “TIn­sta­gram breaks with con­ven­tion,” says vet­eran cat­walk artist Val Gar­land.

“This trend is a back­lash against false, once-face-fit­sall per­fec­tion.” Sim­ple colour state­ment are pow­er­ful, ex­press­ing in­di­vid­u­al­ity and high­light­ing favourite fea­tures. They also em­pha­sise per­fected skin by con­trast. While the look has an el­e­ment of protest it is also play­ful, and back­stage at Spring/Sum­mer shows artists ref­er­enced 1980s nightlife, Deb­bie Harry and the fi­nal years of Andy Warhol’s Fac­tory. Ir­ish artist Ivy Sul­li­van re­cently cre­ated ac­ces­si­ble takes on the trend for a Dublin shoot.

Fuch­sia Lips

Ivy’s pop­ping-pink pout comes cour­tesy of MAC Pro Lip­stick in Full Fuch­sia, €20. This shade was also big back­stage at Cush­nie Et Ochs SS17, where makeup artist Sammy Moura­bit cre­ated a ‘two-toned rounded sexy pout’ by lin­ing and fill­ing in the top lip with Lip Pen­cil, €19.50, in Cherry and fill­ing in the bot­tom lip with the same prod­uct in Process Ma­genta.

Ul­tra­vi­o­let Eyes

For Ivy’s mod­ern, graphic take on 1960s ba­nana-style float­ing liner, try draw­ing a sim­i­lar shape (cat’s eye ex­tended out and then arc­ing back over the eye con­tour) in MAC Chro­ma­line Gel Creme, €18.50, in High Def Cyan with a small shadow brush. At Jeremy Scott, a “smoked-out Egyp­tian” eye was the face’s fo­cus, echo­ing the graph­ics printed on Scott’s cloth­ing, which “were very 1980s makeup,” ac­cord­ing to lead makeup Kabuki for MAC Cos­met­ics.

Mak­ing the retro look ac­ces­si­ble, he used a black or brown pen­cil as an eye shadow, dot­ting along the lash line and us­ing a shadow brush to blend it out.

“It makes a smoky black or brown un­der-base.” Next, a sheer shim­mery MAC Pig­ment, €22, was placed on top to cre­ate an om­bré ef­fect. And like the show’s wigs, each was ap­plied in one of three dif­fer­ent colours: an emer­ald green, laven­der or orange.

Tomato Red Lips

Earthy eyes also pair well with an orange-red lip. At Carolina Her­rera, lead artist Di­ane Ken­dal blended brown eye-pen­cil all over lids and ex­tended it out­wards for a sub­tle cat’s eye ef­fect. She de­fined the wa­ter­line with black kohl, smudged out and into the outer cor­ners. Keep­ing skin neu­tral, she made lips the fo­cus with lu­mi­nous tomato-red cream. Try Chanel Le Rouge Crayon Re­tractable Long­wear Lip Crayon, €35.00, in Rouge Co­rail.

Barely-Swept Lashes

“There wasn’t masses of mas­cara around for this sea­son, its not very of the mo­ment,” says Val Gar­land. To get light­weight def­i­ni­tion, try Clin­ique Nat­u­rally Glossy Mas­cara, €22.50, if lashes are sparse or Per­ri­cone MD No Mas­cara Mas­cara, €23.95 at look­fan­tas­tic.com, if length is an is­sue. Bobbi Brown Ev­ery­thing Mas­cara boosts both with­out look­ing over-the-top. Ivy kept lashes light with L’Oréal Paris Vol­ume Mil­lions Lashes Mas­cara, €14.99.

Fresh Skin

Smooth, bal­anced skin is the per­fect canvas for dra­matic eyes and vi­brant lips. Ivy per­fected her mod­els com­plex­ion us­ing L’Oréal Paris True Match Foun­da­tion, €14.99, an easy-to­colour-match clas­sic with a ra­di­ant fin­ish. She high­lighted each model’s bone struc­ture with Laura Mercier Face Il­lu­mi­na­tor Pow­der in €44.

At Bal­main’s SS17 show, lead artist Tom Pecheaux sought to cre­ate a fresh-offthe-beach ef­fect by warm­ing MAC Stu­dio Face and Body Foun­da­tion, €32, in hid hands and smooth­ing it over skin. He then buffed MAC Prep + Prime Trans­par­ent Fin­ish­ing Pow­der, €26.50 down the mid­dle of the face. Pat Darphin Lu­mière Essen­tielle Gel-Cream, €46.45, along cheek­bones for a lus­trous books.

I also love tints rich in skin­care in­gre­di­ents, as they im­prove over­all tone while keep­ing fo­cus on your colour. Ro­dial Skin Tint + SPF20, €40, is a medi­um­cov­er­age BB Cream that pro­vides broad-spec­trum sun pro­tec­tion and is high in Vi­ta­min E.

Nail­ing It

Shy about state­ment lips and eyes? Keep your fin­gers on the trend any­way, as colour-flash nails are also very hot right now. Take in­spi­ra­tion from Jeremy Scott, where OPI In­fi­nite Shine Gel Ef­fect Nail Lac­quer in Wild Blue Yon­der, €16.74 at feelu­nique.com was the base for geo­met­ric shapes by dip­ping pen­cil erasers into black pol­ish and then drop­ping it di­rectly onto the blue nail. Ivy also kept nails blue, opt­ing for a gel man­i­cure with Essence The Gel Nail Pol­ish in 79 Blue, So True, €2.78 at biuky.com.

Like a 1980s rain­bow, Ivy Sul­li­van’s pal­ette for this look con­trasts shock­ing pink, neon blue, and su­per sul­try smokey eyes.

Above and right — Ivy Sul­li­van’s re­boot of 1960s ba­nana-style float­ing liner in High Def Cyan Gel Creme from MAC, con­trasted with lips in a Rouge Co­rail shade from Chanel.

Pic­ture: Astrid Staw­iarz/Getty

Retro drama was a hall­mark of Jeremy Scott’s show dur­ing New York Fash­ion Week.

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