Beauty

Beauty brands play the long-wear game this au­tumn with for­mu­las that both look good and last. Rachel Marie Walsh picks those that won’t tax skin over time

Irish Examiner - Weekend - - News -

Morn­ing makeup takes your time and care, so “long wear” might well be con­sid­ered a ba­sic re­quire­ment of foun­da­tions. Your skin, how­ever, is alive and hours of ex­po­sure to the rel­e­vant in­gre­di­ents (oil-con­trol­ling, wa­ter-proof­ing, film­form­ing) is not nat­u­ral, even if some ex­tracts are.

Make up is it­self ar­ti­fice, I know, but ide­ally we use it to en­hance rather than sup­press. Al­most all of the big foundation launches for au­tumn are long-wear fo­cused.

Such for­mu­las can be eco­nom­i­cal, less­en­ing the need for re-ap­pli­ca­tion or add-ons like pow­der or spray.

High-cov­er­age op­tions sus­tain peace of mind in those with prob­lem skin, which is no tri­fling feat when you con­sider the pains they take for clearer faces (no one en­dures the side-ef­fects of Te­tra­cy­cline and Roac­cu­tane out of pure van­ity, for ex­am­ple).

The time re­duc­tion fac­tor is also at­trac­tive. Touch-ups add to the min­utes you’ve al­ready spent pre­par­ing for the day and part of the point of wear­ing makeup to work is to make you more com­pet­i­tive.

This trend swells with the brand wars for mil­len­nial money (young peo­ple are more likely to be oily, which re­duces wear-time, and to re­quire day-to-night makeup), and there is less fo­cus on the long-term ef­fects of new for­mu­las. A foundation’s im­me­di­ate im­pact on your look is, of course, its func­tion but an in­gre­di­ent listcheck en­sures daily wear won’t sen­si­tise skin over time.

YSL All Hours En­cre de Peau Foundation, €42, avail­able Au­gust 30, is an ex­am­ple of a pret­ty­look­ing makeup but the third most preva­lent in­gre­di­ent is de­na­tured al­co­hol, which cre­ates a thin, smooth tex­ture but is also de­hy­drat­ing for skin.

Such a high con­cen­tra­tion will not make much of an im­pact if you limit ap­pli­ca­tion to spe­cial oc­ca­sions but wear­ing it ‘All Hours,’ or all day ev­ery day, could en­cour­age sen­si­tiv­ity and ir­ri­ta­tion.

The high con­cen­tra­tion of fra­grance in the mix has a com­pa­ra­ble ef­fect.

If you love YSL, Le Cush­ion En­cre de Peau is a far nicer op­tion: com­plex­ion-per­fect­ing, al­co­hol-free and only very mildly fra­granced. A Col­lec­tor’s Edi­tion com­pact, €51.50, launched this month.

The fol­low­ing long-wear launches are worth a swatch this sea­son.

BareMin­er­als BarePro Per­for­mance Wear Liq­uid Foundation, €33, avail­able Septem­ber 7

BareMin­er­als is still best known for its loose pow­der makeup, 23 this year, though I sup­pose if you called your lin­gerie com­pany ’NakedMeshes,’ a line of com­fort bras would be harder to brand.

Their (very com­fort­ing) liq­uid foun­da­tions are su­pe­rior, in my view, both for sk­in­care and in over­all ap­pear­ance. I like this new one very much.

The shade range is ex­cel­lent, es­pe­cially on the fair end, and though sig­nif­i­cant lev­els of plant oils would ren­der this less long-wear­ing, the for­mula gets some an­tiox­i­dant mojo from papaya ex­tract.

Bam­boo stem ex­tract gives the matte fin­ish a smooth, bright fin­ish and I like that this there is added broad-spec­trum SPF20, even though you have to ap­ply a lot of prod­uct to take full ad­van­tage of this pro­tec­tion.

BarePro is ir­ri­tant-free and, while not es­pe­cially dry­ing, the brand has re­ally gone to town with the sweat-proof­ing, wa­ter-proof­ing, etc., so it does best suit nor­mal to oily types in my view.

Dior Diorskin For­ever Long Wear Foundation Mousse, €46, on coun­ters Au­gust 30

Mousse is not my favourite foundation tex­ture, as the filmy in­gre­di­ents needed to both evenly dis­trib­ute the colour and cre­ate the light tex­ture tend to feel quite tacky.

An en­tirely sil­i­cone base in­fused with syn­thetic min­er­als makes this one feel more like but­ter­cream. It con­tains lots of syn­thetic flu­o­r­phl­o­go­pite, a pearles­cent min­eral that im­parts bright­ness and gives pore-blur­ring power to matte fin­ishes.

Diorskin For­ever is part of Dior Beauty’s per­ma­nent line in cush­ion com­pact (some­what sim­i­lar to this for­mula but with SPF50), cream com­pact (an ex­cel­lent nor­mal-to-dry skin foundation), and liq­uid (way too boozy to be cute) ver­sions. There is some fra­grance in this for­mula but it falls very low on the in­gre­di­ents list and is barely de­tectable, so should not bother sen­si­tive types. The price is too high for 30ml of prod­uct, es­pe­cially as this foundation needs ex­tra help in ar­eas that re­quire colour-correction.

NARS Vel­vet Matte Foundation Stick, €38, avail­able Septem­ber 1

Vel­vet Matte is best for nor­mal-to-dry types in search of full cov­er­age that lasts.

The look is ra­di­ant-matte and pore-less. NARS de­buted Vel­vet Matte and the Alexan­der Wang show in Fe­bru­ary and it cer­tainly pho­to­graphs well un­der over­head glare (a harsh test), but I like it even bet­ter in day­light.

Some women can­not look at stick foun­da­tions with­out think­ing of cake and streaks but this one does re­ward care­ful blend­ing at first in­stance.

It also comes with a touch-up blen­der that can be re­moved for clean­ing.

The for­mula is not emol­lient, as none can be both emol­lient and truly long-wear­ing, but it won’t strip skin ei­ther. It is fra­grance and al­co­hol free.

Note about shades:

NARS tends to carry the same shade names across foundation lines but for­mu­las vary and the colours are not them­selves iden­ti­cal, so it is im­por­tant to swatch for your ex­act match even it your al­ready a NARS junkie.

Stila Stay All Day Foundation&Con­cealer, €39.50

Stila’s lat­est makeup is a liq­uid base with a cream con­cealer pal­ette in the cap.

The liq­uid is medium-cov­er­age and feather-light and the con­cealer has flat­ter­ing peach un­der­tones.

There is a smat­ter­ing of an­tiox­i­dants in both for­mu­las.

The liq­uid does re­quire touch-ups and is not quite as long-wear­ing as the oth­ers men­tioned here.

How­ever, I think it is the best launch for ex­trasen­si­tive types, who are likely wary of high-tenac­ity for­mu­las any­way.

The dish-dis­penser top on the foundation bot­tle helps keep the sk­in­care in­gre­di­ents sta­ble and makes you less likely to ac­ci­den­tally waste prod­uct.

Long wear make up launches in­clude, clock­wise from top, NARS, YSL and Diorskin

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