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The Com­plete Look

Gior­gio Ar­mani Beauty ‘I Heart Ar­mani’ Hol­i­day Pal­ette, €140 How many items does your evening clutch hold? I aim for four (keys, phone, lip­stick, card), think­ing I can check makeup in my cam­era but al­ways miss some­thing (liner, pow­der, keyring mace) en route to the door. Gior­gio Ar­mani’s win­ter pal­ette man­ages to of­fer both less and more for your tot­ing. The glossy red case houses tiers for eye-shadow and com­plex­ion prod­ucts, as well as two sponge ap­pli­ca­tors worth keep­ing. There are five shim­mer pow­ders and five mattes. The brand de­scribes its colours as day-to-evening but they are so richly pig­mented, the shim­mers so dis­tinc­tive, you may feel over­done in day­light. They are, how­ever, very easy to blend quickly and won’t shed on your mas­cara, if you like to ap­ply that first. The mattes are a but­tery cream-to-pow­der for­mula that sets well. The com­plex­ion tier has a shade of the brand’s Lu­mi­nous Silk for­mula called “uni­ver­sal”. This de­scrip­tion over­looks cus­tomers of colour as the makeup is clearly fair-to-medium, no mat­ter how much you sheer it out. Two tonal shades of Mae­stro Fu­sion cream foun­da­tion build cov­er­age where you need it. The One Ev­ery­one’s Talk­ing About Huda Beauty Desert Dusk Eye­shadow Pal­ette, €65 Huda Beauty, the end­lessly re-grammed Emi­rati makeup brand, is now avail­able at Brown Thomas. Huda Kat­tan, an Iraqi-Amer­i­can artist with an in­fec­tious af­fec­tion for makeup, is best known for false lashes and on­line tu­to­ri­als. An ex­cep­tional fol­low­ing (hers is the most pop­u­lar Instagram ac­count in beauty) and celebrity clien­tele led Sephora Dubai to take a chance on her epony­mous line in 2013. Like a boat on the tide Kar­dashian, it has suc­cess­fully rid­den the false lash, strob­ing and liq­uid lip­stick trends to in­ter­na­tional sales.

Huda’s pres­ence gives her an edge over artists with decades more ex­pe­ri­ence. Her South­ern­charm­ing ac­cent (she grew up in Ten­nessee) and of­ten emo­tional pre­sen­ta­tion surely make fol­low­ers feel as in­vested in her jour­ney as they do in any re­al­ity star’s. She con­tin­ues to share with them via YouTube, glean­ing prod­uct feed­back while de­liv­er­ing ac­ces­si­ble ad­vice. Fol­low­ers with ben­e­fits, they pro­vide the kind of cus­tomer barom­e­ter for which ma­jor brands (not based in tax havens) pay, and the brand has grown at sym­bi­otic speed. Desert Dusk, Huda’s new shadow pal­ette, builds on the suc­cess of her first eye shadow launch by in­clud­ing its most pop­u­lar shade, ‘An­gelic,’ as well as eight shades in a matte for­mula up­dated (based on user com­ments) to feel smoother and in­clude more colour pig­ment.

There are also six pearles­cent shades, three high­lighters and a pan of pure glit­ter. Huda Beauty prod­ucts are man­u­fac­tured in Italy, very ba­si­cally pack­aged (the im­age on the pal­ette’s lid is a ma­nip­u­lated selfie) and lux­ury-priced. She de­scribes her­self as risk-averse and teases new prod­ucts in tu­to­ri­als months be­fore re­lease. Her makeup is in­ter­est­ing but the busi­ness de­vel­op­ment is fas­ci­nat­ing. I see a Forbes cover and hedge fund money in this woman’s fu­ture. The Bar­gain e.l.f Cos­met­ics Nude Rose Gold Eye­shadow Pal­ette, €12.50 Filled with sun­set pinks, golds and rich purples, win­ter’s warm colour eye palettes are guar­an­teed to ward off the blues. Rachel Marie Walsh picks the sea­son’s finest. con­tin­ued and if you miss it — or just thought the price un­rea­son­able — this lit­tle e.l.f com­pact also seeks to make pow­der of the magic hour. Like a sun­set, nudes and golden pinks tend to flat­ter ev­ery com­plex­ion and eye colour so what you hope for in a pal­ette of this kind is de­cent tex­ture and hold.

There is an or­ange-y brown you may wish to ig­nore here but the colour se­lec­tion is oth­er­wise good.

The pow­ders are smooth and quite sheer, al­low­ing for plenty of mis­takes en route to a per­fect con­tour.The shim­mer shades are not too ob­vi­ously glit­tery and do not shed. The In­stant Clas­sic

Char­lotte Til­bury In­stant Eye Pal­ette, €75 Char­lotte Til­bury, mother of an­other fast-grow­ing, artist-driven brand, did a tu­to­rial with Huda in June us­ing her own best-sell­ing The Dolce Vita Eye Pal­ette, €50. It is a cute video but Til­bury’s shad­ows scarcely need on­line as­sis­tance. One of her stand­ing goals is to have ev­ery prod­uct be “easy to choose, use and gift,” and the new In­stant pal­ette achieves this hand­ily. The gold com­pact is in­spired by her own smokey eyes but comes with in­struc­tions four looks — Day, Date, Desk and Disco — each of which is fool­proof and su­per-flat­ter­ing. The ‘Desk’ look, built from choco­late, pink cham­pagne and caramels, is es­pe­cially pretty. ‘Disco’ is dra­matic, with lots of black shadow and fe­line liner flicks, but the shed-proof “con­trol-pressed” pow­der is easy to keep neat as you layer.

All Til­bury shad­ows are slightly emol­lient and con­tain sooth­ing Vi­ta­min E. Glow is her thing (she cre­ated J-Lo’s sig­na­ture makeup look), even the matte shades are slightly ra­di­ant, but pig­ments are so finely milled they should not en­hance lines. The Col­lec­tor’s Edi­tion

NARS Man Ray ‘The Veil’ Cheek Pal­ette, €45 Nars has col­lab­o­rated with pho­tog­ra­phers these last few win­ters, mem­o­rably dress­ing a sell-out 2016 col­lec­tion in French snap­per Sarah Moon’s hazy dream­scapes.

This year the brand mined the Man Ray trust for in­spi­ra­tion.

Fran­cois has long col­lected the Dada artist’s im­ages of women, ob­serv­ing how the eyes were de­fined, where the rouge ap­peared on the cheek, etc. Ray’s ‘The Veil’ (1930) is the per­fect choice for a makeup line, as the lace’s hon­ey­comb mesh echoes how mod­ern sil­i­conebased for­mu­las cover our faces with sheer colour and lu­mi­nous pig­ment. This pal­ette’s case is for ad­mir­ing but the con­tents are very wear­able.

The wa­ter­melon blush looks in­tim­i­dat­ing in the pan but blends to a warm apri­cot. The bronze is ‘La­guna,’ a NARS best­seller that was reimag­ined as a dif­fused-colour pow­der this sum­mer. It now cre­ates a very sub­tle, ra­di­ant glow on first ap­pli­ca­tion.

The lim­ited-edi­tion high­lighter is my favourite shade. A bronze rose, it gives the brush a pretty, healthy lift and dou­bles as eye shadow.

Huda Beauty founder, Huda Kat­tan, left, mod­els shades from her new eye­shadow pal­ette, top. Above, Elf Nude Rose Gold Pal­ette.

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