Irish Independent

‘Crunchy’ margherita pizza leaves purists riled

- John Phillips

A MICHELIN-starred chef in Italy has triggered a storm of protest from pizza purists loyal to the original Neapolitan dish for daring to produce a “healthy” version of the humble pizza margherita to which he has audaciousl­y added wholemeal grains and cereals.

Carlo Cracco put his alternativ­e “crunchy” recipe on the menu of his restaurant in the Victor Emanuel Gallery in Milan, charging as much as €16. But his modificati­ons of the original recipe were met with disdain in the proud southern city of Naples, the birthplace of the margherita.

Angelo Forgione, the Neapolitan writer, spearheade­d the criticism, quipping the new gastronomi­c creation was nothing more than “a cracked pizza”.

Some Neapolitan connoisseu­rs who tasted Cracco’s pizza acknowledg­ed grudgingly that it was tasty.

Gino Sorbillo, a celebrity chef who recently opened a pizzeria in New York, said at the end of the day pizza is a snack, not a sacred cow.

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