Orange is the new black

This hum­ble fruit is a de­light in savoury as well as sweet dishes, says Rachel Allen. Pho­tog­ra­phy by Tony Gavin

Sunday Independent (Ireland) - Life - - APPETITES -

The orange is a fruit so ubiq­ui­tous, we could al­most take it for granted, but one taste of its as­sertively sunny sweet­ness re­minds us that this cit­rus fam­ily mem­ber is a fruit worth reckoning with. In its el­e­ment in a baker’s kitchen, the orange brings a touch of old-fash­ioned love­li­ness to cakes, meringues and pas­tries. One of my all-time favourite cakes is a clas­sic Vic­to­ria sponge scented with orange zest and a lit­tle juice, sand­wiched to­gether and cov­ered with a de­li­ciously but­tery orange ic­ing.

Meringues love a bit of finely grated orange zest folded through the mix­ture just be­fore bak­ing, and this great-at-any-time-of-the-year orange curd is a joy, wrapped up with whipped cream in­side a meringue roulade, as in the recipe, op­po­site. This quan­tity of orange curd is enough for two meringue roulades. The curd is also great with reg­u­lar meringues and cream, cakes or even lit­tle drop scones. It will keep in the fridge for a week to 10 days. If you want to make enough curd for just one meringue roulade, then halve the recipe here, but rather than half an egg yolk, use a whole yolk.

Or­anges love cream, so adding a touch of orange zest into a creme brulee or creme caramel will work a treat, as does, by the way, an orange pos­set. I love how the cooks of the Mid­dle East of­ten in­clude or­anges in rich, dense al­mond cakes, and in tagines, too. This quick break­fast or dessert of orange, pome­gran­ate and mint, pic­tured here, gets an orange dou­ble whammy with a gen­er­ous sprin­kle of orange blos­som water — which is also great with a scat­ter­ing of pis­ta­chio nuts, if you like them. I ate some­thing like this ev­ery morn­ing for break­fast when I was in Mar­rakech re­cently; some­times the pome­gran­ate seeds were re­placed with cin­na­mon for a change.

Or­anges in savoury dishes are fab­u­lous, too. Of course, the French knew this when they cre­ated the clas­sic The gen­tly acidic fruit is a sub­tle foil to the rich meat, as it also is with goose and pork. I love it when sweet, pan-fried scal­lops are tem­pered with seg­ments of juicy orange, or how pan-fried fil­lets of John Dory wel­come a touch of orange zest in a clas­sic

blanc. duck a l’orange. beurre

Lastly, for a fresh take on a roast chicken, this salad with fen­nel and orange, right, is just the job for a sum­mery sup­per.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Ireland

© PressReader. All rights reserved.